TRD supercharger

Just changed both belts yesterday. Remove the two 14mm nuts on S/C idler and 12mm bracket on side and it will slide forward. I took the two bolts out of the fan shroud so I could get my hands and wrench into better position.

 

The tensioner you mean? Maybe a picture might help. My main belt still good at 42k. But the s/c belt has a few cracks here and there. It a pain to change the main belt?

 

Yes I meant the tensioner.

 

Pics are already here

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/trd-s-c-maintenance-how-to.331263/#post-8733891

 

I know we're not carb'd or NA, but this was interesting.
https://youtu.be/EP1Rh829rVk

 

thanks

 

Had to take the gauge apart, drill two holes, and install a couple of screws to enable the gaugepod's cover to work. The body of the gauge itself is threaded and there is a ring that would nicely hold it in a flat dash opening. Gauge is shorter than the bucket.

 

Gotcha, thanks for the pics. Im trying to decide between the Lotek dual gauge A-pillar mount or the style you have.

Also, are these very difficult to install or just connecting the boost hose and guage, then the wires to dash lights or something for power (and the GND of course)?

 

Who knows the tools needed for ucon install? Besides basic sockets

 

the ucon box itself or the box+thermostat+cam gears?

 

Cam gears is what I was really asking

 

Hopefully link works
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...ggdMAA&usg=AFQjCNFbfpFLcDdMI3a2ZZWneboeutWzQg

 

Need to get a hole through the firewall for vac line. Bought some silicone tubing from Amazon. I used a small existing hole behind glove box and enlarged it with unibit and new day star boot. Ill grab pics later.

Note I went with steering gauge pod to avoid visibility to thieves and such. After trying many guards ended up with a PLX DM-6 which displays nothing aFR and boost on same gauge. Just a little electical tape and it fits snugly in the pod. Its a low profile gauge like the AEN x-series

 

We've been over this before, but my OR won't let me do a two-wheeled burnout. Am I going to have to do the locker-anytime-mod to be able to do this?

 

Huh? Hold down your traction control button for like 10 seconds?

 

While stopped hold the traction button down for 3 seconds. I have a regular SR5 so maybe the OR is different?

 

I've done that. One wheel spin if I put my foot on the brake. OR doesn't have a mechanical limited slip. Had an Eaton TruTrac in my Tundra. Nice two-tire burnouts.

 

Mine with the lsd doesnt burn both with traction completely off

 

I finally got my Y-pipe re-done today. What a night and day difference in the mid range pulls. It feels like it is relieved as it accelerates now, whereas before it felt, almost held back. Apparently the bottleneck in the system where the drivers pipe meets the Y reduces to 1 7/8 piping, and it is dual walled, so it actually appears bigger than it really is according to the shop who did my redid my piping. I'm a happy camper now. The only thing I regret is not doing it sooner.

 

My URD Y-pipe made my truck louder. Installed the pulley at the same time so I don't which made what difference. I just know I like it.