Under Seat Subwoofer Club (USSC)

All my boxes are current sitting in calgary. I didnt have space when i moved so its all there but @ZMan2k2 has 2 triton 12s sealed.
If you look at his setup - the fibreglass rear panel, use 1/2 birch vs MDF you can get a 12 ported if you use the entire rear back wall OR
a single 10 ported using passenger side with the port firing driver side.

 

Hey do you have any clear pics of the compartment after you fiberglassed it

 

So I'm thinking of doing this but on a budget haha my question is would 2 8 pioneer shallow mount subs sound good ? Idk anything about subs haha

 

Not sure which shallow mount subs you're referring to. Whatever speakers you put down there need to have a requirement for an enclosure that's less than 1 cubic foot total (0.5 per sub). The Alpine Type R 8s fit nicely down there I think. Enclosure requirements are about right too.

 

I'll look into the alpines then

 

So I've been looking at those type R's and they seem like some solid subs now my question is what amp would you recomend to run the two?

 

Pretty much anything with a solid amount of power will do. Subwoofer amps only cover a fraction of the frequency spectrum so your main concern is good clean power. The Type-Rs come in dual 2 or 4ohm configurations so you can run a variety of different impedances. If it were me, I'd get the dual 2ohm coil subs, wire the coils on each subwoofer in series for a 4ohm load on each sub. Then run the subs in parallel for a 2ohm final load on the amp. Most subwoofer amps make more power at 2ohms as their desired impedance. Some are even stable at 1ohm but most aren't. An amp that makes in the neighborhood of 600-800watts at 2ohms would be my pick.

 

All you ever wanted to know about the 8 inch Alpine Type R

 

Disagree sir, Most amps in todays market are stable at 1 ohm with a hand full @ .5
Find yourself an amp that does around 800-1000wrms at 1 ohm and hang on. Set the gain on the amp properly, keep the signal clean and enjoy.

 

If you're referring to larger subwoofer amps that are largely used for SPL competitions and "burps"....sure. If you're working with mostly SQ oriented amps you'll typically see 2ohms as the standard. Pretty sure Alpine and JL Audio don't even have a single amp in their entire lineup that are 1ohm stable.

But to answer the original question....1ohm, 2ohm, 4ohm; it doesn't matter. As long as you make the power you need to achieve the desired output you're fine. It won't sound any different.

 

Sorry I don't bench Mark vs Jl and alpine.
Even the Mercury audio, GZ abx many others which are not spl based companies r 1 ohm stable .Now most mid /high amps class ab yes you will see 2 ohm but for d class mono most modern day amps across the spectrum are 1 ohm. Jl uses a completely diff topology so comparing to that makes no sense as 95% of the market is not.

As for burp only amps there's literally less than a hand full so no point even bringing that up

 

Hey everyone. I am trying to join the club!

Thinking about one of these:
Kicker 11S8L72

This sub has a mouting depth of 4.75" which shoudl fit based on what people said in this thread.

I am planning ported with a 3" x 14" flared tube which brings the F3 to 30Hz. The SPL for the Fb frequency (36.6Hz) while pushing the 450W RMS into it should be around 114.4 dB max.

Does this sound correct? I made the assumption that the space for the sub was about .9 cubic feet. Is this correct? I know people were saying there is almost 1 cubic foot of space. Has anybody measured this volume?

 

You're correct, the space below the seats is about 0.85 cubic feet. I measured it with water one day....dangerous, but accurate.

As much as I dislike Kicker that 8" square woofer is THE best way to get a ton of cone area down there without having to do do any kind of black magic to make it fit. They do make some 6x9" woofers but I doubt they are as stout as the Kicker.

The 3" flared port is a good way to get the port area you need and not completely destroy the available volume of the enclosure. I went that route too originally before I landed on a sealed design. You will need a port elbow to change the direction of the port so make sure you account for that length. Your depth will be cutting it close at that point. It was VERY close with the 2.5" ports I was using.

 

I have the same sentiment towards Kicker as you do. Plus the sub is ugly. I have attempted designs for many different subs and so far this one gave the deepest bass for an 8 inch. That's my main goal, deeper bass to supplement my door speakers. Doesn't need to be crazy loud.

In the past, I had a Ford focus with a custom transmission line box housing a 15". Now that was a beast.

Thanks for the response man. You did the exact measurement method that I would have done with the water! Just checked it your build thread. 2 ED 8s. What's your F3? Also more importantly, what your full current setup?

 

Actually WinISD is modeling your port at 21.22 inches for a 30 Hz tune, but the Devil's in the details. That port diameter either needs to be larger or you need to add a second and recalculate. With the current design, you're going to get chuffing starting around the mid 30s as the air velocity is too great for the port diameter. A high pass filter should knock it out though if you don't wanna redesign - say something steep at 25 Hz or so.

 

Hey Rob, thanks for the info. I need to try WinISD out. I am all for redesigning. Where did you pull the TS parameters from? I will probably be designing on and off for a few months before I am ready to pull the trigger. I might go for a passive radiator(s) instead of a vent to make things easier.

 

I just found this thread and I'm very interested in the SA-8. Question: if I build an MDF box to fit in the under seat area, will I meet the specs of the suggested ported enclosure of 0.5-0.75 ft^3 ?
Also, what port is recommended? I've been out of the subwoofer game since I was a teen.

 

Actually that's a good design as you'll need a subsonic in that neighborhood anyway with a vented enclosure.

I couldn't find published parameters (pretty standard for Kicker) but lucked out - they were already in this version of WinISD. FWIW it did fail the driver integrity check so there's that. Le is suspiciously missing.

You may be onto something with the radiator idea.

 

You won't be able to get all that under a front seat using MDF...probably not even fiberglass considering the port. Rear...sure. Will still be tricky with all MDF though.

As far as the recommendations, Sundown makes some on their website. However the port dimensions will ultimately depend on the tuning frequency you choose as well as the volume of air to be displaced.

 

Sound I abandon the Sa-8 then?