Morimoto VS Xenondepot Philips

Sorry... Forgot to add that I sincerely appreciate everyone's patience that was waiting for the H11 4300k Philips. There was a backorder directly from Philips which we were not advised of, hence the delay.

 

If you use a led with a projector lamp your going to have a bad time

 

@hyper15125 - CNlight is not what they used to be in terms of quality, I have to disagree with you.

 

did you mount the ballasts with screws or just double sided tape?

 

I order a set of 5000k also. They say it was back order too? Correct?

 

Unfortunately, the some of the 5000K HID bulbs are back ordered as well but we are expecting to get them in late next week. Thank you for your patience.

Danny

 

I have experience with both. Morimoto seems to be easier to install and well thought out vs Xenondepot which looks like an ebay kit. I have the 55W Morimoto kit now in the Tacoma and I say it's way too much light. Morimoto kit shakes too much but thye do include a set of rubber seals which I haven't have time to try to see if it'll solve that problem. I would look into the new Phiips LED Ultinon kit (not the older one) I heard it's pretty slick but you will pay dearly.

 

I pers

How is the kit easier to install out of curiosity?

55W is way too bright. You also want to be aware that you're running 50W ballasts with 35W bulbs -- which means that you're overdriving the bulbs. Overdriving bulbs means that they run hotter, and will burn out prematurely. You're also potentially producing more glare due to the bigger arc.

 

Morimoto HID bulbs came with no wire bases, make them so much easier to shove in the tight spots behind the light housings, which always sit right in front of washer bottle or battery and you have like 1" of clearance to work with. The whole kit snap right one the OEM H11 sockets (or if you want, run included wire kit with relays) Took me not even 15 nins to get it installed in my father-in-law Prius, which I felt like...

 

Thank you for the clarification, Steve. I'm running the Philips bulbs now and will do so for some time to properly assess whether or not the warmer color helps with fatigue and overall visibility in comparison to the cooler tones of the CNLight bulbs I also have. One quality difference I've noted is that the CNLight bulb has enough play in the housing that I can change the angle of the bulb, which changes the hot spot characteristics. The Philips on the other hand fits into the socket so firmly that there is no tolerance for movement and both hot spots appeared evenly without adjustment.

 

@xola3que - Thanks for the response. I don't really understand what you mean by no wire base, as ultimately the bulb needs to connect to the ballast through a wire. Are you referring to the base having a 90-degree bend similar to the OEM H11 halogen bulb? If so, our XenonDepot Philips bulbs do this as well. The Xtreme ballasts that come with the kit are low-draw (only draw 4.5A on cold start), so they can safely be powered directly from the OEM headlight wiring. We do include a relay harness in our kits though in case someone wants to power them directly from the battery (ensures a stable 12V).

@Scooby24 - Thank you for the feedback. Give it some time... Try driving with them in inclement weather conditions. You'll see how the warmer tones of the 4300k works better in these conditions, whereas cooler tones typically reflect off the water particles in fog.

Steve

 

there's a disconnect at the base. you can install the bulb first into the housing then snap it back. little detail but helps alot.

 

To each their own We chose to avoid this design for 2 reasons:

(1) The base extends out a lot further then an OEM halogen bulb.
(2) Another connection / failure point.

Either way, I appreciate you taking the time to let me know.

Steve

 

That is a great way to put it

Danny

 

I'm having an issue with the XenonDepot female connector from the ballast to the factory connector.

It appears the female on the ballast is too deep. Wifh the factory connector inserted all the way in not getting power to the ballast.

Anyone else have this?

 

No, I'm trying to go from the ballast direct to factory connector.

I figured it should be direct since I order the model specific kit and there are no instructions in the box.

The adaptor you mean is the blue and black wires one that came in the bulb package?

 

This one?

 

Ordered XenonDepot H11B bulbs with the Philips 4300k when they were having their 20% off sale a week and a half ago. Didn't need any ballasts as I had some Hylux ballasts laying around from an old set of HIDs I had. I used the wiring included to go from each ballast to the factory H11 connectors. I did not use a relay wiring harness but will be upgrading the hi-lo fuses to 20A just to be safe.

The bulbs are good quality, very tight to twist into the factory headlights which tells me that they are very secure. This makes me feel better, as I've seen posts of Taco members complaining about bulb shake. The bulb base is also at a 90* angle, making installation simple on the drivers side where space is tight. I didn't notice any ground wire shadow issues, color is what I would expect out of 4300k bulbs. As with any bulb rebase, whether it's XD or TRS, won't be branded with Philips due to possible legal issues. I'm very happy with the light output, I'm stock height and found the cutoff between halogen and the XD bulbs to be in the same spot so no need to adjust the height on the lights, at least for now unless something happens otherwise.

 

Yes, your factory connector is H11 (bulb type). The ballast inlet is 9006 (universal connector type). They look similar but are not the same. You need to use the Adaptor in between, making sure polarity is correct. (white ground, red hot)

 

@Scooby24 As I previously mentioned I ordered the Morimoto 5500k in addition to the Phillips bulbs 4300k based on your recommendation. Put them both in briefly and I prefer the Morimoto as they match the rest of the lighting better.

Thanks for that tip.