2013 Air Conditioning, is it working as well as it should?

My A/C worked great up until this past month, then the cooling performance started to slowly but surely dwindle. I have a regular cab, which probably has something to do with why my A/C works better than the A/C in an access cab or double cab.

 

My Tacoma was a gift from my dad when I finally got my learner's permit, a 2010 model manufactured in August 2009 and purchased new in September 2009. The summer of 2010 was BRUTAL here in Southeast Pennsylvania and the A/C in my Tacoma performed flawlessly. I finally got my driver's license in May 2011. A/C in my truck worked perfectly during the summers of 2011, 2012, and 2013. In the summer 2014, I joined TW specifically to ask some questions about the A/C in my truck. My biggest concern was that it seemed to not be blowing as cold as it had during previous summers. After chatting with fellow Tacoma owners, and trying out the A/C on a hot but much more mild day (less humidity), we all determined that the drop in performance was the result of higher humidity.

I had no problems with the A/C in the summer of 2015, even after I rear-ended a Mustang in slow-moving traffic and bent the radiator support. The radiator and condenser in my truck were not damaged.

In the summer of 2016, I noticed the same fluctuation fluctuation in A/C performance I had noticed back in 2014, and had it tested at the dealer when I brought it in for a recall. The dealer tested the A/C and took the temperature at the vents, and found the vents to be blowing a frigid 41°F. I turn my A/C on in winter to improve the defogger performance, so it sees regular use. I've been told this keeps the system lubricated and reduces the risk of total system failure.

Believe it or not, the first time I used my Tacoma's air-conditioner as an air-conditioner (WITHOUT the defogger on) in 2017 was in mid-February! We had an unseasonably warm day (ironically the day before a huge snowstorm) and I took advantage of it to test the A/C. My A/C was blowing satisfactorily cold and in April, May, and the first part of June it worked fine.

Now I am 99% sure based on what I've been told by people on TW, my mechanic, and numerous friends (some of whom are also mechanics) that my system was (A) Undercharged from the factory, (B) Has a leak somewhere, and (C) Has finally lost enough R134a for me to notice a difference.

 

If you think a 1999 Camry has ball-freezing A/C, try the A/C in a 1990 Camry. Good ol' R-12! My parents bought a brand new LE V6 model in 1990 and had it until 1998. The A/C never needed service in 8 years and 80K miles, and was still cranking out ice cold air when my dad sold it in 1998!

 

Also, my grandpa's friend gave me driving lessons in a 2003 regular cab 2WD auto (don't know if it was 2.4L or 2.7L) on a few different occasions. This was back in 2006-2007, so the truck almost new. The first time I drove the truck, the A/C was FREEZING. The next couple of times I drove the truck, I don't think it was warm enough to use the A/C. When I drove the truck yet again on an unseasonably warm day in April 2007, I noticed that A/C was nowhere near as cold as it should be. I've experienced firsthand A/C systems where there was absolutely no Freon in the system and the A/C just blew stale hot air (notably my Grandma's 1987 Mercedes 300E, my parents' 2000 GMC Safari conversion van, and a 1996 Nissan Pathfinder SE also owned by my parents). I've also experienced A/C in vehicles where there was some refrigerant in the system and it blew cool but not cold (the aforementioned 2003 Taco, my friend's 2003 Toyota Highlander, the 1999 GMC Safari formerly owned by the bar where I work, and my own 2010 Taco).

 

This is what I have experienced with my 2013. When driving below about 45 MPH, I run the truck in 4th gear to raise the RPMs up around 2k. If I don't do that, here in Florida the truck does not cool well.

 

Just measure the temp of the air coming out the vent. If not colder than 55*, you need air condition service.

 

Have it checked for sure. I live in south Texas and we have our lions share of HOT. I rarely need to turn my fan speed above low.

 

This kind:

$10 Taylor Waterproof Digital Instant Read Thermometer For Cooking, BBQ, Grilling, Baking, And Meat, Comes With Pocket Sleeve Clip, Red

https://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Preci...8&qid=1498463799&sr=1-43&keywords=thermometer

 

I used to spend a lot of time in LV.. I'm surprised that after 12 years living there you haven't learned that you aren't supposed to leave the house between the months of June-October LOL.

But you're lucky that you mostly just deal with dry heat. Get a cheap evaporative cooler and you're good man.

 

100% humidity occurs when it's raining and yes, it does rain a lot in the Bayou city, but humidity is usually around 65%-70%. I use to live there.

115F in Houston? If you are talking ambient temp. you are confusing Houston with LV/southern AZ. Most of the time it's high 90s in Houston.

I will admit it's hot there, but not as hot as Corpus Christi or Florida. Louisiana heat dwarfs anything you see.

 

The feels like temperature. And yeah. Maybe exaggerating a little bit but the humidity here needs to take a chill pill.

 

I agree - all along the gulf coast is a bitch.

 

1 summer I went out to Arizona just outside of Phoenix to pick up a wrecked airplane. 110 outside and I didn't even break a sweat taking it apart. Get back to Houston and it's 95 and I'm sweating my balls off unloading it off the trailer.

 

It was 112 here yesterday. Sitting at stop lights, it was cool but not cold. One I was moving, nice and cold again.

 

How about a different perspective:
If there is a charge problem (low ref.) the cycling clutch would give it away; start up the a/c and once the cooling requirement is satisfied, the compressor clutch begins to cycle off/on/off etc. If the charge is low, the cooling may be satisfied, but the clutch fast cycle, off-then immediately on. In the worst case, the clutch won't cycle and compressor just run. Then it's reasonably a charge problem (low ref, maybe contaminate problem, etc.)
This happened to our 06 corolla; Cooling seemed ok, but seemed to get worse in year two probably as it got older. Noted ok cooling; then clutch off, cooling faded fast and clutch on again 2 seconds later. Complained to dealer and got charge adjusted under 3 year warranty and clutch now cycling like our highlander and tacoma. Yes dealer complained and said the cooling was correct, but I won the battle.
Additional info: The dead giveaway was that on very humid days there was virtually NO condensate coming out. Virtually impossible for a properly running system.
So is clutch cycling normally?; check another dealer lot model and compare?

 

Does anyone know the part number for the cabin air filter on a 2014 DCLB SR5 Pre?

 

CA 7417 that's the FRAM part number. If you need a different one, you are on your own.

 

Thank you. i think this will do...

 

Maybe for an air filter. The request was for a cabin filter. I bought a Fram cabin filter for a '15 Tacoma PreRunner V6 the other day - part # 10374

 

Standard A/C performance test method. Note engine needs to be revved to 2000 rpm:



4Runner shown. Tacoma similar. When I did mine on a 76F day, the thermometer reading went down to 46F. I used a Taylor TruTemp analog cooking thermometer from Walmart; uses no batteries.