Home Improvement Today?

Preparing to be a future dog owner and had to put up a gate. As I have posted before I try to reuse old wood like pallets or in this case an old cedar fence my dad removed. Reused wood is a PITA!!! but turned out awesome and wouldn't look as good IMO if it wasn't old wood.
Wanted a giant "rusted metal" door look.

Looks bigger and more dramatic in person...

 

A 10mm rainscreen cavity is a code requirement where I live

 

what is the reasoning behind that? You get so much moisture that it needs some airflow to dry?

 

Minimum code requirement here is a 10mm unobstructed rainscreen cavity witb a drain at the bottom

The cavity and drain allow the water that gets behind the siding (which always happens) to freely drain , it also seperates the back of siding from the housewrap or building paper , this eliminates the issue , which is more prominent with housewrap , of surfacant contamination of the housewrap .

Surfacants are sawdust , oils , tannins etc that exist on the siding or seep from the siding over time , surfacants plug the pores of the housewrap and it loses its ability to be breathable and also loses its ability to shed water effectively which can lead to siding paint failures , rotten wall sheathing and mould in wall cavities .

The capillary break between the back of siding and the primary drainage plane ( the housewrap or paper) has been shown in studies that it can be as small as 1/8" and still be effective but for whatever reason our code landed on 10mm as our standard .

While a bottom drain only approach is minimum code , a bottom drain and upper vent is best practice because it allows for a convection current behind the siding that not only promotes drying but keeps the structural wall cooler in summer because it helps limit thermal bridging

 

Thanks, once again for keeping us informed! I always like reading lessons by the great @OZ-T.

 

Are you asking about panduit or wiremold type boxes?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Legrand-...PIPHorizontal1_rr-_-202264863-_-100149089-_-N

$13 Panduit JBX3510WH-A 1-Gang Outlet Box, White, 2-Piece

https://www.amazon.com/Panduit-JBX3...rd_wg=7Nn8H&psc=1&refRID=288A823GQR5PEHRZPBN6

 

Thanks OZ!

 

Same idea behind the use of vents at the capital and base of wood columns. Prevents build up of condensation and the resulting rot.
No clue how many columns I have replaced over the years due to rot because the vents were either clogged or intentionally plugged.

 

I saw those but they are very shallow (about 1/2 the depth of a new/old work box) and they are for low voltage. I don't want to run regular voltage through them...

 

They make this in all kinds of sizes, single gang, double gang, shallow, deep, etc in metal or plastic, low voltage and for 110volt.
https://www.gamut.com/p/wiremold-24...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CLTHmPyg39QCFVw4TwodjbwA5Q

Google for wiremold single gang, or panduit, or legrand.

or get try a counter top box like this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JV3D7C0?aaxitk=lK2c.guP-mU4VV.DgbNGQQ

 

Rainscreens will be everywhere in the US in a few years.

 

We protected the floor with Fortiboard and taped all the seams in the field with Ram Board Vapor Cure tape so we don't get any curing ghosts

Ready to start framing the interior walls tomorrow , plumbing and electrical rough ins start next week

 

I only do commercial architecture work and have been for 31 years. It's been since the last 10 years or so that rains screens have been commonplace commercially. It's a smart practice in a lot of different applications.

 

Thanks for the links. I found this and will go with it.

$12 Wiremold BW35 Legrand, Extra Deep Box, White

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCYS0I/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2AEUS6XC1A4DN&colid=1DQFUFB3GAFM4

 

Asbestos.

Has anyone recently gotten a quote for removal of Asbestos siding? I got a quote and it seems EXTREMELY low for the amount of precaution necessary. I have approximately 1600 sqft of siding. The estimate is for $2800.

 

You better run with that and get it before they change their mind. I just did 800 sqft of pipe wrap and insul wrap and it was $5700

 

There are different levels of asbestos abatement required for different materials and conditions

 

Like OZ said below there are different requirements depending on the friability of the asbestos. For example, ACT or asbestos floor tile is not a very friable material so there are less requirements than say asbestos pipe insulation which is VERY friable and requires complete tenting and bagging, suits, respirators, etc.

 

Hard to say on the cost vs regular siding but asbestos siding really isnt a big issue overall. Its the same as removing normal siding pretty much. Since its non-friable the only real precautions are to wet the siding before, during, and after and to wear respirators and proper PPE. PPE for non-friable varies by area and material but can be anything from just nitrile gloves to tyvek suits.

But yeah the main setup for the siding removal would be to line the ground with 6mil (depends on your local regs), wet it down, take it off trying to not break it as much as possible, wrap it in more 6mil (again depends on area, we always did 12mil)

Once you get into friable asbestos is when it gets expensive. Whenever we did pipe or large component removals we would use glovebags.

 

Everything in this apartment is wrong!

So here is how my breaker panel is:



And here is what it actually is. I cant figure out what this double 30amp is for. Am I powering the exterior lighting to the building? Im going to be pissed if thats what it is. Is it normal to have the fridge, smoke detectors, and all the hallway and bedroom lights and outlets on a single 20amp circuit?