New to Tacoma preventative maintenance.

You probably just had some red leftover in the block that mixed with the green and made a rusty color.

I flush with distilled water when I change coolant types. On the Tacoma, it probably took 8-10 gallons of distilled to flush it pretty well. The 7.3 took over 25 gallons to flush so I never complain about the Taco coolant now.

 

@Timmah! explained this very well in his video.



He calculated how much coolant can't be drained, then flushed the system with distilled water till only water was left in the system. Then he added non-diluted red coolant in the amount the same as distilled water was left in the system. That made it perfect 50% mix. Then he filled the system with 50% red coolant mix.

I wish I knew that when I was doing coolant myself. It was a head scratching all the way.

 

It takes multiple flushes to get it all out (thats why you only want to use one type of coolant in the first place). When I did mine I also replaced the my radiator hoses, clamps and thermostat (it is an ideal time to swap these out with new parts).

1. Drain coolant from radiator plug.
2. Remove overflow tank, wash it out, reinstall it.
3. Unbolt thermostat housing, remove thermostat, reinstall thermostat housing (without the thermostat).
4. Fill system with distilled water via the radiator cap.
5. Start truck, turn the heater on high, run for a couple of minutes while adding water via the radiator cap as needed.
6. Turn off truck, drain water from radiator plug.
7. Unbolt thermostat housing, install new thermostat, reinstall thermostat housing.
8. Remove upper and lower radiator hoses, install new upper and lower radiator hoses.
9. Mix your coolant with distilled water in a seperate container (Toyota red long life can be full strength and need a 50/50 mix while others come pre-dilluted - so check the bottle).
10. Fill system with coolant via the radiator cap.
11. Start truck, turn the heater on high, run for a couple of minutes while adding coolant via the radiator cap as needed.
12. Close radiator cap and bring the car up to full running temperature (you want to the thermostat to open allowing coolant to flow in)
13. Turn off truck, let system cool, fill system and overflow tank with coolant to proper levels, check for leaks.
14. Dispose of all the flush fluids properly at your local recycling spot (autozone, jiffylube, etc).

Finally there is another coolant drain plug on the engine block but I didnt bother with that.

 

Do you now where the plug is on the block?

 

It is on the pas side a little pita to take out. Easier to access from under the truck but sill pita.
Not knowing how Tim did the flush I drained the block via this bolt. Very messy - fluid running all over the block.

Better (easier) to do it like Tim did it.

@Currygoat before step 9 you need to add undiluted fluid in the same amount you already have water in the system. Then top off with 50% mix. And Toyota is selling both: undiluted and 50% mix. 50% is about half price of full strength so pricewise it is the same.

 

Draining it through the pet cock works but it leaves fluid in the system. Probably in the block and the heater core but maybe some other nooks and crannies as well. As far as adding the coolant after flushing until only distilled water remains can't i just add half the amount of the capacity of the cooling system with the coolant and top off with distilled water? Making it a 50/50 mix.

 

Yes... using the radiator pet cock will leave some water in the system. Thats why it takes multiple flushes to get it to clear distilled water (even Tim). I didnt worry to much about the final distilled water remnants in the core/crannies and filled it with a 50/50 mix. If my final mix is 55/45 due to the remnants in the core it wont really make a difference in my climate. Here is an amazing article how it all works:

https://hellafunctional.com/?p=629

 

There's a hose adapter on the block drain, just connect a 1/4" ID host to it and no mess. I was able to easily reach the bolt from below. I also got about 3qts out of the block when I drained mine. Between that and the radiator I only had about 1qt left in the system, most likely in the heater core.

 

I am probably blind (or just inexperienced). Can't find the damn drain on the block.

 

If you crouch down by your front passenger wheel, get a flash light and look straight (between the top of the tire and fender) towards the block. It's a bolt with a little hose fitting under it.

 

Keep in mind that the coolant is also a lubricant for your water pump. Running pure water is not good idea. Also the boiling point of proper coolant mixture is higher than water and engine depends on it. Running "lean" mixture is not recommended.

I don't have any adapter. Jus a bolt.

 

Ah, sorry. The 3.4s have the adapters.

 

While I do need coolant as lubricant to keep to system rust free, I could run 75/25 and not have any problems what so ever. System pressure and heat capacity are the multiplying factors here. Im in a very mild climate and do not have to worry about freezing thus I can run more water (if I wanted to).

You should read this short article, it will change the way you think about your cooling system forever:

https://hellafunctional.com/?p=629

 

Do you mean 75% antifreeze and 25% water? If so this is the most performing coolant. However 50-50 is OK for 99% users and is more cost effective.

I saw that info before. Leaning coolant mix (more water less antifreeze) lowers performance on all 3 parameters freezing point, boiling point, and cooling capacity.

 

-use white lithium grease on door hinges, door latches, tailgate locks, tailgate handle. Well lubed locks and handles not only are waaay easier to open and close but prevent breakage of handle (lack of lube = more force to open or close)

-when washing a truck try to clean under the fenderwells, flushing water thru the cowl below windshield, flush water thru the holes on the frame. Any left over dirt/debris will cause rust. Rear bumpers accumulate alot of road dirt and grime too.

-very simple but often over looked. Pull dip sticks! Check coolant, check radiator cap, check tire pressure/wear, if it has a grease nipple grease it. Check all fluids

- letting a truck warm up after a cold start

- letting a truck idle after a long haul or heavy use. Lets the engine temp stabalize. For example say we got the truck at 200 degrees F after a long uphill drive. As soon as we hit our destination we turn it off, the temp will actually climb first then start to cool. But be aware prolonged idling can cause issues too so dont get too carried away.

Every once in a while drive with the radio off. Listen for abnormal sounds in engine, drivetrain, suspension, and body.

Hope this helps.

 

The flush is done. Only thing is I have small debris if you will in the clear water coming out. Does anyone know how to check the integrity of the rubber hoses? How would I know if they need replacing? In my opinion it is definitely rubber (a small portion in each flush). I do not have a blown head gasket and my engine sounds great. Could this be something other than rubber? Don't want to put the coolant in until i figure this out. Also, I have no leaks. Not sure if this info was needed or not.

 

If you give the big hoses a squeeze they should bounce back. If you feel soft parts and parts that are abnormal you should replace them.

He talks about it here at 2:40

 

Turns out all of this work has resulted in a leaking radiator. The previous owner put some sludge in there to plug up a leak and when I did a full flush I knocked all that crap loose. Anyhow I am about to replace the radiator and I was curious if any radiator brand is fine? Should I look for a specific one? Any experience or thoughts on the radiator replacement would be appreciated!

 

I was going to buy a cheap one for the time being and get an oem one when I do an engine swap. This thread that I started has a lot of info:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cheap-radiator-comparison-radiator-horror-stories.498820/

Koyorad has a good rep for aftermarket, but by the time you spend the $160 or so to get one, an oem Harrison is only $25 more from partznet.com or camelback.

 

Subd