Where's my old woodruff key??????

My crank was spinning freely inside my harmonic balancer. I'm guessing the key got sheered off. How do I locate the key way on my crankshaft and get the old key out of it?? At a stand still. Any help is greatly appreciated!!!

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wheres-my-old-woodruff-key.499155

 

I put cylinder one at tdc on the compression stroke. Then lined the new balancer up with the 0 on the oil pump cover. Marked with a Sharpie where the key way on the balancer was on the crank...then polished a tad with a 400 grit polishing when on my 4 inch grinder. Still no key way appeared. I didn't go all the way around the crank though. My new balancer is snug on the snout. Only a cunt hair of wiggle room but I still haven't tapped it onto the crank all the way.

 

Though I have dealt with numerous crank-noses and pulleys over the years, I have never had a Tacoma apart to know for sure what it should look like.

Is it really a Woodruff key?

Woodruff keys are "half-moon" shaped and sit in a semi-circular keyslot:


Or is it a straight key that has been mistakenly called a "Woodruff" key:




Is it possible that the key sheared and the bottom portion has nearly "welded" itself into the crank-nose? Could these two barely visible "seams" (yellow arrows) be the outline of the keyslot--Woodruff or straight? (If they are then it looks like a Woodruff keyslot to me as it does not break through to the end of the crank-nose as does the Miata crank key shown above.)



If it is the lower portion of a Woodruff, some amount of banging with a punch might pivot the semi-circular remnant up and out of the slot? Or drill and tap and pull...

 

It came with a woodruff key from auto zone. I believe that the two lines are just from a pipe wrench that I used to turn the crank over a little. Could that key in the back be the one used for the balancer as well?

 

I have never seen a Taco 2ZR-FE crankshaft nose live, and cannot find any definitive photos of what it is supposed to look like--however what I have found suggests that the crank pulley and oil pump impeller are driven by just an extended stub of the timing chain sprocket key--like that appearing in your photos, albeit looking a bit worn in same.

Perhaps someone with some direct knowledge can assist?

 

Same thing happend to me on my 3rz balencer when not torqued to spec it will come loose and bounce back and forward hitting the timing chain lower gear share this woodruff keyway ? Why I do not know my timing cover oilpump and chain went as well as the new autozone balencer sucks toyota balencers are more expensive and are hardened steel as aftermarket is a guess and pray it wont fail also your oil pump runs off the balencer so if the bolt comes loose your problem has just beginning just remember that you get what you pay for and a 30 doller balencer from Dorman parts sucks the tailshaft sheared into pieces chain borke lower gear broke and the crankshaft chipped the key way a 7mm chip trying to post my pics but haveing a problem posting pics asap.. The Key is SHARED WITHYOUR Timing chain gear and the balenceshaft gear has its own woodruff key

 

Here is the specs for the balencer

 

Not properly torquing the crank bolt during DIY repairs is the #1 cause of crank pulley/balancer failures that often get blamed on aftermarket parts; I've seen it on Miatas, Mustangs, and Mercedes--193 lb·ft is a lot! A typical 1/2" drive torque wrench tops oui at 150 lb·ft. You also need a holding tool to get it that tight. With an 18" long wrench that's 128 lbs of force at the end of the wrench!--145 lbs if you're holding the handle 16" from the torque head..

 

The key in the photos above is their look at scamitic and listen to cliffyk is wright about us not doing the job correctly DIY correctly

 

Yes parts fail I blame myself now sorry

 

SHIM CHARTS break a chain bend a valve or two or three or all 16 ha no just playin or am I

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wheres-my-old-woodruff-key.499154/#post-19289767

 

Is it possible that the key sheared and the bottom portion has nearly "welded" itself into the crank-nose? Could these two barely



No no no no no no no no no no no no no its in your photo I see it way in the back it did not shearoff just rusted up cause no oil gets in their on the shaft clean with chrome polish like blue magic this crankshaft is fine to me less you spun a bearing its fine now this motor does need a timing cover look at the oil pump houseing deep scraching from dry starts its ok for litte bit like this but if it looks or feels like a bad brake rotor then replace as needed

 

When it broke the gear and chain

Broke timeing cover

Scored oilpump and cracked it