Tacoma 4.0L hard to start when warm

Because even if it has 41 psi pressure it may lack the necessary fuel volume necessary to build in order to initially start the car. Want to know how I know the fuel pumps on these Tacoma's suck? Because mine left me stranded out of the thin blue and I just like you had extended cranking issues before hand as well. Sometimes taking a few seconds and extended cranking to get the truck going.

That or the check valve for the fuel pump is not retaining pressure which in turn requires extended cranking in order to re prime the fuel system from all the fuel drained back into the tank.

Pressure required is double what 41 psi should be. As you are essentially dead heading the pump. Your test proves the pump is not up to par and further proves my theory that the OE fuel pump is utter shit.

 

New glow plugs???

 

Fwiw. My problem is slightly dissimilar however, I've tried two different fuel pumps and still have the long crank.

 

What sort of pumps have you tried?

 

I see. Why would it start fine after it's sat overnight?

 

First one was an eBay deal that didn't fix the long start and the gauge sending unit was bad, second from oriellys. Still Long start.

 

Ohhh, you're doing the WHOLE assembly with float.

We are just referring to replacing the pump itself.

 

No heat throughout the system, eventually the system does drain back, but it is not supposed to do it throughout the day like it is for you. It is an intermittent problem right? The symptoms you are displaying are the same ones I had long ago.

 

There is your problem right there.

If you want to solve your problem for good get an Aeromotive Stealth red pump 340LPH or an

$129 AEM 50-1200 E85 In-Tank Fuel Pump, Black, 4.055 x 1.535 x 1.535"es

AEM 50-1200 green top 320LPH. Both overkill for your application, but will handle any future supporting mods this truck will ever be capable of dishing out at it. The AEM pump which I use which I also am recommending to you has been with me since NA and now handles my Supercharged/ 2.5 pulley 330-340 HP truck without hiccup.

 

I wouldn't say it's intermittent, it happens everytime the truck sits for longer than 30 minutes. After about 6 or 7 hours it will crank fine

 

I stand by my initial suggestion of bad fuel pump, especially knowing that the coolant sensor is ruled out.

 

There was also a member, who has a '12+, that found that his OEM pump failed a ramp test. That then led to others having similar reports.

 

Do you have any thoughts on the URD fuel upgrade kit? It's only 165 and let's you move the filter outside of the tank

 

100% worth it. Select thge pump of your choice.

 

You would still be required to run the inline strainer/ sock on the fuel pump, and that thing filters any particulate that may be inside the tank as it is. To me you are only doing more work for yourself and adding extra splices in the fuel lines so why bother. I just bought the AEM fuel pump for like $100 or something like that at the time from Summit racing and the strainer from my local parts store for peanuts and it's been running without a peep since.

 

That makes sense, I just went back and looked at the post about the 12 failing the ramp test and they mentioned the in tank filter was pretty clogged. The previous owner of my truck clearly did not stay on top of maintenance, and I imagine he put some pretty knarly fuel in it.

 

It is a possibility the filter is clogging, it is also possible it as strained the in tank pump enough to the point where it is now giving you issues. Regardless, it sounds like now is a good point to either take the tank down or move the bed back to do your fuel pump.

BTW, when you reply to someone on here it would help if you quoted our posts so we can reply to you in a quicker manner. Otherwise we have to check back if we remember which I just had to do because I had no idea you even replied.

 

Funny you should mention that! Just posted the 2nd vid about my "Dying Truck" going through 2 more simple things to check ... to no avail. I did however have a bunch of people comment on the video offering more great suggestions.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CGlGE20eWPc

 

I have tried a few of the basic suggestions from viewer comments from this vid.

• Tried starting truck with my spare key (maybe bad chip in primary key)
• Tried turning the truck "On" (without starting) to prime the fuel pump
• Reset ECU - this can take a few days for the computer to get back to a "normal" setting, so still waiting to see if this helps
• checked all fuses related to fuel system/engine/ECU

Still having the long warm starts.

 

Turning the truck to the ON position is of no help on these vehicles because the way they are designed the fuel begins priming the moment you turn the key to turn the engine over. These are not like the GM vehicles which prime the lines the moment the you turn the key to the on position. The signal you are looking for on PIDS when monitoring with the scanner is labeled STA.