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Wheel Bearing Replacement

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by seniorredwood, Jun 6, 2017.

  1. Jul 28, 2017 at 7:26 AM
    #21
    js312

    js312 Well-Known Member

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    It's not hard. Did both of mine at ~70k because I thought my needle bearing noise was a wheel bearing.

    You need the appropriate socket for the axle nut and a torque wrench capable of whatever that torque spec is. Many torque wrenches don't go that high. Other than that, I think the typical mechanically-inclined person would have the tools to do the job.

    If I remember correctly, a ratcheting wrench in whatever size the bolts are the hold the hub on would have been handy.
     
  2. Jul 28, 2017 at 7:27 AM
    #22
    coopcooper

    coopcooper certified youtube mechanic

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    buy a slide hammer. its well worth the money for getting hubs off
     
  3. Jul 28, 2017 at 8:37 AM
    #23
    Tex-Tac

    Tex-Tac Well-Known Member

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    Installed Overhead Compass and Temperature Display along with outside temperature sensor and wiring; LED lights reverse backup; LED license plate lights; Added GTA Bluetooth Audio kit to stock radio for iphone audio; Spare tire steel braided air hose extension connection to rear bumper; Installed new headlights along with new bulbs PIAA H4 XTreme and for fog lights PIAA H10 XTreme bulbs. Installed new hood with "hood-scoop". Installed Predator Side Steps. Replaced front chrome grill with customized color matched (Desert Sand Mica) grill with added TOYOTA lettering (also in matched color), installed and secured tailgate anti-theft devices. Also installed a new external TPMS monitor for all 4 tires.
    hahaha.....yea that's why I paid someone to do the job.
     
    BamaToy1997 likes this.
  4. Jul 28, 2017 at 7:30 PM
    #24
    Yoda2009

    Yoda2009 Yoda2009

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    Plastic dip badges. Upgraded head unit, husky floor liners, BFG ko2 tires.
    I have 95,000 on mine , never replaced. Should I do it as precautionary measure? How do you know when there bad? Seen write up of people doing it at way less mileage then me?
     
    BamaToy1997 likes this.
  5. Jul 28, 2017 at 8:58 PM
    #25
    mynewtoy

    mynewtoy I like men

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    Mileage veries. Depending on how you drive. Or if you go off-roading. The seals failed on mine and I got dirt/mud in them. Larger tires increase wear too but You might get another 100k out of yours.

    You will know when they go bad they start making growling/roaring sound. When one goes I would replace both
     
    TexasTacoLT likes this.
  6. Jul 29, 2017 at 12:48 AM
    #26
    Chuy

    Chuy Well-Known Member

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    I''m on my third set. I off-road, so I expected routine bearing replacement. I have a 20-ton HF press, but as someone noted above, you need a half-inch plate to separate the bearing from the hub. The first time I replaced the bearing, I had to take the hub to a shop to separate the OEM bearing. The 2nd time I bought Dorman hubs and pressed in Precision bearings myself. The third time, I went with DuraGo hub and bearing. $65 for their kit, 29596058. No more reason to separate the bearing from the hub; just buy the bearing and hub and press them yourself. You will need to also purchase the seal for the hub and O-ring for the bearing-knuckle surface. That's less than $100 per side. However, do inspect the seal on the knuckle to make sure it does not need replacing. Replacing any part of the wheel bearing and seals does not require a wheel alignment.
     
  7. Jul 29, 2017 at 4:18 AM
    #27
    Yoda2009

    Yoda2009 Yoda2009

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    Plastic dip badges. Upgraded head unit, husky floor liners, BFG ko2 tires.
    Thanks for the input everyone! Good to know. I did increase tire size from stock 245/75/r16 to 265/75/r16. About 15000 ago. No lift yet. Tires are BFG Ko2. Love them. I do have front end noise but can not really pin point it. Prob will look into replacing them soon out of precautionary. Thanks everyone for help
     
    BamaToy1997 likes this.
  8. Jul 29, 2017 at 11:26 AM
    #28
    Chuy

    Chuy Well-Known Member

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    You can check the bearings before removal for wear and tear. With the wheels off the ground you can test for excessive play by moving the up/down and side/side. There can still be some play that can be taken up by the brakes; so, you'll need to remove the brake pads and rotor to free spin the bearing to feel for play or roughness. Install only the rotor with some lugs and do the side to side moving and in and out to feel for play. Any excessive play will be the bearing. A grinding feeling can be attributed to a bad CV axle, but a continuous fine grinding feeling will most likely be the wheel bearing. You will not be able to pinpoint the grindiness until you separate the axle from the bearing. `
     
    Marc70 likes this.
  9. Jul 29, 2017 at 3:28 PM
    #29
    WhiteDog

    WhiteDog King of the Brittanys

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    I just replaced both front bearings on my 2006 4WD. I decided to buy two new bearing assembly instead of rebuilding the existing assembly.

    Some awl-sh!ts to remember:

    1. Beg, borrow, or buy a offset wrench for the four 17mm 'captive' bolts. Without it you cannot torque the four bolts.
    2. Autozone etc will loan you a 35mm socket. Just ensure you get a six point type since you are applying a whole lot of torque to it. Twelve point sockets are sh!t IMOP.
    3. Install the assembly with the CV axle position in a straight line. Don't try to install it with the outer joint at any angle to the rest of the axle. Don't forget the o-ring either!
    4. As you tighten the four bolts hand tighten the spindle nut to take up the spindle into the bearing assembly. If you don't, the bolts tend to prematurely tighten before the assembly is fully seated into the suspension assembly.
    5. You should not have to force anything at reassembly. If the bolts are tightening prematurely, I bet the spindle assembly is stopping it.
    6. CHECK THE NEW PART TO ENSURE IT IS GOOD!!! <- Why? I bought two NEW (Dorman) bearing assemblies from Rockauto. I found the second one was actually bad AFTER installing it on my Taco. Yes sir, a brand new assembly either the bearing was bad, or the hub was oval shaped. The bearing had about .040" in side to side play between the hub and the bearing. I could rock it back and forth and see a gap appear/disappear in the assembly. The older bearing assembly (which I had to reuse to get my truck back in order) was rock solid. No moment at all. (My truck was not 'right' after installing it and driving it a few miles. Got home and I was able to grap the tire at 900 and 300 positions and see/feel fore and aft 1/4 inch movement. Yeah, I was not a happy camper. :mad:
    7. I bleed my brakes simply as a precaution since the caliper was removed and positioned away from disk.
    8. REMEMBER see step #6 above.
     
  10. Jul 29, 2017 at 4:57 PM
    #30
    Chuy

    Chuy Well-Known Member

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    1. A Crowfoot wrench is what you need. Get the kit, these wrenches come in handy and they run less than $25 for ten wrenches.
    2. Some kits include the axle nut, and some will be 12-point nut; so, look at what nut you have first, then get the appropriate socket.
    3. Removing the sway bar connection helps line up the knuckle easier. Not a bad idea to lube the O-ring with silicon paste. The splash guard goes between the bearing assembly and the knuckle; not a bad idea to apply a light film of gasket maker to help prevent water from seeping through; apply to the top half of the bearing assembly.
    7. You don't need to bleed the brakes just because you removed it to move out of the way. Do bleed away if the fluid is dirty or you open the system.
     
  11. Aug 1, 2017 at 8:12 PM
    #31
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    best wheel bearings around! www.marionbumper2bumper.com

    This is why I stress quality over price. The assemblies on RockAuto use low quality bearings, and the workmanship just isn't there. Mine stand the test of time, and I am the ONLY one that offers 24 months and 24k miles. That is how well I back my product!
     
    Marc70 and TreeFortRichard like this.
  12. Aug 2, 2017 at 4:49 AM
    #32
    WhiteDog

    WhiteDog King of the Brittanys

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    Bamatoy1997

    Yes I agree.
     
  13. Aug 2, 2017 at 10:40 AM
    #33
    dustin912

    dustin912 Well-Known Member

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    Did mine myself at about 140k on a 4x4 passenger was bad see photo. If i where to do it again i would buy the assembly, getting hub off the old bearing was terrible lucky I had some pullers to get the last bearing race off the hub shaft. Getting the new bearing on the hub was easy with the press just make sure you support the bearing when you press the hub shaft. Also make sure you have a torque wrench that will do more than 150 lb-ft. Also good to replace the CV seal on the knuckle.

     
    Marc70 likes this.
  14. Aug 2, 2017 at 11:09 AM
    #34
    chuck0412

    chuck0412 Well-Known Member

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  15. Aug 2, 2017 at 12:29 PM
    #35
    Sae68

    Sae68 Well-Known Member

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    Buy the completed assembly it will save you alot of headaches. Make the whole process very easy.
     
  16. Aug 2, 2017 at 3:45 PM
    #36
    Kemosabe

    Kemosabe Little bitty life

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  17. Oct 15, 2017 at 5:10 AM
    #37
    smokn

    smokn Unsenior Member

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    Update:
    Just did the other front. I had bought both front bearings at the same time so I once again opted to not go the pre-made assembly route. I confirmed with the shop I used last time that they could do it same day, got it off the night before and showed up at their door when they opened. 2 hours later they called me and said it couldn’t be done.

    I took it home, put it in my press (this time with the addition of a decent jig of 1/4” angle) and pressed it out with easily with a little bit of heat. Inner race stayed on so I had to grind and fracture it with a cold chisel.

    Everything worked out thanks to so many great write-ups on here by my advice is still to buy a pre-made assembly from one of the upstanding gentlemen on here.
     
  18. Oct 15, 2017 at 7:05 AM
    #38
    Drtnap19

    Drtnap19 Well-Known Member

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    Any comments on Bluepit assemblies?
     
  19. Jun 20, 2018 at 10:54 AM
    #39
    Jclow801

    Jclow801 Active Member

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    So... BUMP, one because I need an assembly, and two because I need to replace my drivers side wheel bearing, would you recommend doing both at the same time, or just do them as they go? Perhaps that's personal preference. But in any case.. Since @nj636 is banned, who's doing hub assemblys? Anyone?
     
  20. Jun 20, 2018 at 2:22 PM
    #40
    mynewtoy

    mynewtoy I like men

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    Detriot locker rear ARB air locker front 4.56 gears OME 3" lift, SPC uca's , moto metal 951 wheels 315/75/r16 Treadwright guard dogs, homemade front plate bumper with smittybilt 9.5k winch, homemade skids, homemade Bed bars, Mobtown offroad high clearance rear bumper with tire carrier, Homemade rock sliders , U-bolt flip, Wheeler's super bumps, BORA 1" wheel spacers , Black headlight mod , black tail lights, Satoshi Grill , autoPage C3 RS-665 alarm with remote start, flowmaster 40 series exhaust, cruise control,bed/ground effect lights, wet okole seat covers, tinted,windows, weather tech floor mats, AVS vent shades, debadged, hidden cobra 19 cb, 7" offroad lights behind grill, rear diff breather relocate, abs kill switch
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wheel-bearings-hubs-for-sale-4x4-prerunner.537080/page-5
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/group-buy-wheel-bearings-4x4-2005-2018.551652/
     

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