Just bought a project bass boat...

dont worry, $600 is only where it starts. once you get that stuff in it will be onto the next issues! lol. when i got mine started i figured i was only going to need trim piston, battery, water pump and some misc electrical.... several years and thousands of dollars later i was able to get it on the water this year with only a $150 break out cost. i hope yours is less cursed than mine was! also, watch out for rocks...

 

No biggy...I do it all the time ...actually, the more the merrier and hopefully we can learn from each other's endeavors. I'm sure there are enough of us on TW that are redoing older boats that perhaps it can become a BS/learning thread.

 

I'm hoping not . It's a jet drive so I don't have to worry as much about rocks (except for those pulled in by the impeller in shallow water, which is what I think happened to this one).

 

i knocked one with the lower skeg. it just dinged the lower unit but shook the engine bad enough it threw some rings and fotched one of the cylinders.

 

If you have a boat, it's expensive to keep it afloat.
B.O.A.T. = Bust Out Another Thousand.

 

Looks like a good place to ask advice. I'm finally getting my dads canoe back in the water after a 30 yr rest. After cleaning it back to a shine with coil cleaner I noticed two rivets are broken off and seam down the middle had a sealant. I plan to use gluvit on all seams and rivets then painting both inside and outside with a epoxy marine sealer. Final coat will be a camo.

That was the plan but I have seen people braze rivets and seams with aluminum rods. Does anyone have experience with this? I would still do all the sealant and painting after brazing.

My concerns are weakening the aluminum during brazing.
( I've done HVAC & Plumbing for years so the torch work is not a problem)

 

Use gluvit on the inside. No need to use on the outside. It will seal the rivets and seams. I don't think you want to braze the strakes or seams shut they were left open for a reason. It could trap moisture inside and cause corrosion over time. If you have holes or large areas to patch (say greater than 1/2" then you might look into having someone help you seal those up but honestly rebucking the existing rivets will do wonders then GLUVIT. Otherwise if you need to replace solid rivets buy some and use some marine 5200 sealant when you insert them. I use it on the pop rivets too because it will keep water away from the metal to metal contact areas.

Is it bare aluminum? Gluvit is a thick epoxy and will harden but dries slow and will run. Once it runs and dries it is very difficult to sand down. Shit is harder than the aluminum. Those runs will show once you paint it.

Keep in mind The blind rivets /pop rivets are no good for keeping water out. Only good for internal fastening.

 

I just received the parts this past week to make this thing go forward in the water. After I clean my shop up from the last project I was working on, I'm going to install the lower unit parts and after the storms clear out this afternoon, reinstall the lower jet pump unit. I also took the test for the boaters permit here in NH and passed it (it was harder than my driver's test I took 45 years ago). NH is one of the few states that requires a proctored written test for a boater's permit. Fortunately, it's good for the rest of my life.

 

I don't have a tool to rebuck the rivets. The boat is bare aluminum and didn't leak after testing in the pool and filling with 2-3 inches of water. So all the gluvit and sealing was just to overkill it. Didn't want to do a camo paint job and find out it started to leak a few weeks later.

 

First leak test by filling the boat with a few inches of water. Don't overdo it as water weight could overstress the boat and or trailer if it sits on one. Mark areas with a felt pen that are problematic.

As for bucking all you really need is a hammer and a solid smooth faced piece of steel. Recommend YouTube how to buck rivets using a hammer. Super easy. You're probably overthinking it like I did originally.

 

OP please spend some time with the trailer wheel bearings so you can make it to the water.

 

Yup...the previous owner said he packed the bearings last summer and then used the trailer only twice after that but to be on the safe side I am going to do it myself. The tires are both new and in perfect shape. I've seen too many boats on trailers sidelined on the shoulder of the highway on a jack with the wheel missing.

Does anyone recommend one wheel bearing grease over another? Is there grease made specifically for trailer hubs that will submerged occasionally?

 

I used marine grease in the tube. Bought at lowes

https://m.advanceautoparts.com/p/lu...L3ZipkxWmpgDgi4MXouOzR7vcAvDRO14aAkUOEALw_wcB

 

Works for me...thanks!

 

I alway's used Kendal Blue, it holds up real well to water. just my .02

 

I'll check it out...thanks.