05-10 1GR HUGE FILTER.

do you fill it up with oil before you install?

• Principle Application: Ford/Lincoln/Mercury (81-09), Chrysler/Jeep/Mitsubishi (02-09), Various Mazda (94-13), Various Industrial Equipment

So these have the same
thread pitch
as stock?

 

Outside container doesn't guaranty you are getting more filtration media. I personally always use

$53 Toyota 90915-YZZD3 Oil Filter 1 Case (QTY 10)

Toyota 90915-YZZD3. Check this link and you will see what I'm talking about.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/toyota-oil-filter-made-in-thailand-vs-the-competition.123608/

 

Since it's mounted with the open side on the bottom, you can't prefill the filter during install. It would all pour out.

I ran a 1516 filter for a while. Went back to the YZZD3. Cheaper by the case and actually built with the flow rates and bypass specs the factory intended, not what Ford intended for the Taurus.

 

I did fill it up to saturate the media (and get an accurate figure of volume) however as it's installed mouth down I poured most of it's contents into the filler cap then quickly flipped it and screwed it on the mount. I hate dry starts so I always pre-fill as much as I can.

And yep, it screwed right on no issues as if it were stock just 4x the volume. There's really only a handfull of different threaded bottoms for filters the rest is just what "hat" the manufacturer puts on each base. As for filter media that varries brand to brand and even teir to teir. Run whatever you like best as long as it isn't Fram. I prefer Wix XP's currently but have run and been happy with Napa Gold, Amsoil, K&N, Royal Purple, Mobil1, Prolator Pure One and Boss. (Boss is overpriced over marketed gimic.)

I provided the number so you can cross reference with your prefered brand.

Read up on Bob is the Oil Guy and use whatever gives you the warm fuzzies and satisfies your budget.

Currently running the

$14 Wix 51515xp XP Oil Filter

Wix 51515xp 5qt of Royal Purple (it was on sale cheaper than mobil1) 10w40 full synthetic and 1quart of Marvel Mystery Oil 6 quarts in a 5.5 system, plus whatever was left in the pan that didn't drain so 6.25 quarts I'm estimating and my dipstick says I'm just a tad low. Pretty good for a 5.5 quarts to fill dry system.

For most folks I recommend Mobil1 and Purolator Pure One or Wix. That's what I usually run, it's most cost effective. I have a good friend with 500k+ on his 2UZ-FE and he's only ever run Castrol GTX. (10w-40) If I'm feeling rich I'll spring for Amsoil Signature, but then I also run that 15k miles and it isn't as cost effective but again warm fuzzies.

If you're really into oil as I have become, send samples from each change out to an independent lab for analysis. I use Blackstone Labratories and highly recomend them!

 

You are absolutely correct that's why I like to cut filters open an oogle the insides!

 

Rob - google "oil filter anti-drainback valve". Toyota, Wix, Napa, and most other filters that fit our trucks have it.

 

Not trying to be an ass here, but you guys should ask yourself this. How many 1GR-FE's have failed due to lubrication issues in any normal scenario? None that you know of? Toyota did extensive testing & mods/tweaks/etc often tend to have unforeseen consequences, hell Toyota can't even predict the future such as in the case with their leaf springs puncturing fuel tanks. My point, when you monkey with something very proven, you only increase the odds of a failure.

 

You're not being an ass at all, TW is here to share ideas and opinions, you're certainty entitled to your own and welcome to bring up counter points! Ultimately we all do what makes us happy. I feel better running as much oil in my system as I can, as long as the crank case isn't frothing more oil is proven to be better. More oil in the system means more volume for contamination to disperse into, it runs cooler, (heat is the oil killer), cleaner, and longer. So in my opinion and experience: better.

Now in the spirt of open forum, let me offer you counter points. I have indeed asked myself those same questions you mentioned and I have a very different take on the matter.

Consider this; Toyota is a company, and as with any company they have one ultimate goal: MAKE MONEY. A good way to make money is to spend less of what you've already made, cutting cost where they can when developing and producing a product e.g. using the smallest filter that meets the needs of the motor and the least quanity of oil necessary. Using less oil also means more frequent changes so more potential income from end-users bringing their vehicle in for service to the dealer meaning more money thus further achieving priority one. Toyota also builds its vehicles with driving on road in mind primarily. (Even the TRD-OR-PRO says driving offroad will void the suspension warranty etc.) On the other hand many like to offroad their trucks were there is significantly more dirt dust and silica that will get into the oil as well as steep hills, obstacles, and inclines than can starve the pump pickup of oil, thus more oil in the system is better.

Now to answer your rhetorical question, having worked for a Toyota dealership for a number of years I can tell you with impunity that engines do fail from lube issues under normal circumstance. This I do not expect any who has not worked at a dealer or as an auto mechanic that sees literally hundreds of vehicles a week to realise. The average person simply does not have a large enough sample size. Most folks simply are not aware of these failures as Toyota isn't going to advertise "Hey our engine blew up and it's our fault!" Hell we all know how crappy Chrysler products are but people still buy them because only their successes are advertised not their failures.

We at TW are typically enthusiasts rather than the average end-user and therefore tend to take better care of our trucks so we see less failures here. That said I have run across at least one thread of oil related engine failure on this site.

As you mentioned Toyota can't predict the future, they build what should be more than good enough based on expected wear, use, and cost efficiency; but there's always better. You could run conventional oil of the necessary API but synthetic offers more protection and better economy so I'm willing to bet that's what you run. (I run thicker oil than is recommend, 10w40 but won't get into that here.)

Entertain this theoretical situation, you are about to go into a hot zone and Intel says the enemy is to be armed with small caliber semi auto hand guns only. So do you only wear your flack jacket with no plates because you should only need to stop 9mm? HELL NO! You put your plates in because you just might find out the hard way they had a 7.62x51 rifle hidden in the back. My point being use as much protection as you can even if it is unnecessary, better safe than sorry. Especially when it's something you depend on such as your life or your truck, I need my truck to get back and forth to work which supports my livelihood and family.

So if there's a better way to do it on your level as the end-user you may as well pony up for the best if you want the most out of what you have already put a significant investment into.

As for monkey-ing with stuff, if Toyota built a perfect truck for everyone's needs then TW wouldn't exist as no one would be looking for help advice and mod ideas. If it wasn't for monkey-ing with what's proven we would never advance as a society. If nobody monkeyed with the horse drawn carriage, a proven method of transport, we wouldn't have self propelled carriages. (Cars) So I say monkey with it all you want, and with whatever you want!




Just for fun here's some guesstimation math: Toyota has made let's say 120,000 Tacoma's a year, 120,000 trucks x 10yrs productions is 1,200,000 each one uses one less quart of oil than my system so that's 1.2 million quarts of oil. Now say Toyota only pays $5 a quart that's $6,000,000 Toyota saved by using 1 less quart of oil than they could have. They kept 600,000 a year in their pockets by just using 1 less quart than they could have. This doesn't even factor in the cost for the larger filters and potentially larger drain pan. And this is only one model across their entire line up! Literally billions saved in a 10yr span. Any large company is going to have an R&D department devoted to finding and taking advantage of exactly this sort of situation. Oliver garden saved themselves millions a year by simply not salting their water when cooking pasta!


Sorry for the rant.

TLDR, don't ask me if I thought about it because that's exactly what I do, I think about stuff and I'm more than happy to tell you all about it.

-Kei

 

Not full, but you can get about 1/3 of a quart in and soaked into the filter where it won't come out.

 

Yep yep!

 

Hmmmmmm.....yep

 

1. cartridge style filters on the 1gr are limited to the dual vvti 1gr variants found in later year FJ's (2010+) and 5th gen 4 runners. the dual VVTI 1gr NEVER made it into any tacoma... so we all have the top mount canister filter.

2. Yall make me laugh with your dry start mumbo jumbo filling oil filters and trying to flip them over BS. If you knew how much oil flow there was at idle and how quickly even that big ass filter gets filled and saturated at IDLE you would never bother with filling an oil filter ever again.

3. to each their own. I will run an OEM toyota D3 filter for the life of my truck and i guarantee ill never have an issue, filter and oil gets changed every 5k which is far sooner than filter media clogging.

 

Anyone try this monster?

 

...and a 1/3 of a qt does what exactly?

 

Why??!?!

 

I always wet my coffee filters in the morning before I put the grounds in. I'm not sure if it does anything, but it doesn't hurt. Same thing....right?

 

Depending on where I am at on my last bunch of oil purchases, it makes it easier to track what I have put in. That and it is a habit from previous vehicles or engines I have owned.

Works for me. I'm not standing over anyone here with a clipboard evaluating them as they change oil, so they should feel free to do what they want.

 

Ah! You're everywhere

 

Wix 51515 is an even hugh'er filter and fits fine. The gasket has a bit larger diameter but, apparently it fits fine. I have not used it but have one waiting in the wings for the next oil change. Several TW members have posted they run it with no issues. I'm installing my leftover 51516 filters on daughter's I4 Camry 06. It's on its second large filter with no problems. Also fits the 07 Corolla but I can't avoid scrapping my knuckles on the oil pan; so, it's out for that engine.