2016 BBP audio build

Just get a mini amp that has a hi low input. Its rather simple, cleaner and avoids the pesky problems that loc's can bring forth

 

That's REALLY cool. Would've saved me a day right there as I made all of my own connectors with speedwire, etc.

 

Let's say I wanted to add a mini amp like a alpine ktp or pioneer could I just tap into the harness while keeping the LOC for my subs?

 

Yeah you can do that for sure. Tap into the side before the mini amp for the LOC

 

So I'm fairly inexperienced with car audio. I'm simply looking to add a little more bass to my truck - the stock sound is pretty weak.

I've hooked up a few aftermarket head units, and a sub and amp to them a couple times but nothing serious.

I want to keep the stock head unit and NOT have to cut any wiring so I can easily go back to stock if I want.

If I buy these things from Amazon will I be able to achieve this?

$228 Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier,BLACK

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF6HYDE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A36YHT1CK05Z2S&psc=1

$280 Kicker 43TCWRT102 CompRT10 10" Subwoofer in Thin Profile Enclosure, 2-Ohm, 400W

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BLW60D6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=AJYZ22R6PYFT6&psc=1

$34 BOSS Audio Systems KIT10 4 Gauge Amplifier Installation Wiring Kit - A Car Helps You Make Connections and Brings Power to Your Radio, Subwoofers Speakers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002VM8RU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

$36 Add An Amp Amplifier Adapter Interface to Factory OEM Car Stereo Radio System for Select Vehicles - Add Subwoofer Bass Amp etc.- No Factory Premium Amp- Compatible Vehicles listed below

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CQUL240/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A236UT9Z5WDWZA&psc=1

I think the last one is the most important for not doing any type of modification to the factory wiring, correct? I think it's the same thing @Taco_yota posted just sold on amazon not ebay.

 

That all will work for sure. I'm just not 100% positive on the wire harness but it looks right to me. @Taco_yota does it look right to you?

 

@Flooger welcome to TW by the way.

 

Hey everyone. It's been a long time since I did anything else to the truck around the system. I FINALLY reinstalled the plastic backs on the seats. I had them off this entire time because the speakers were hitting them. Thanks to @Mr Marv 's advice a long time ago I fixed the issue. I added a 2 inch
bolt holding the seat to the brackets with a 3/8ths inch spacer. I originally started with a 3/4 inch spacer but it just pushed the seat too far forward and made it really hard to pull up the seat bottom to get to the storage under them. Worked perfectly except I couldn't reinstall the covers for the bolts but who cares. Here are some pics. Let me know if you have any questions. I bought the hardware from Ace hardware.

Four 2 inch 10x 1.25 bolts

Four 3/8ths inch spacers

This is a pic with the 3/4 inch spacers. Only to show how you have to have the spacer between the seat and bracket.

This is the amount of space I gained between the seat and the speaker.

So glad to have them back in the truck and not in my closet taking up room!

Everything looks normal.

 

A few people have been asking about how the subs sound and hit. I finally made a couple of videos. One is of the seat clearance with the spacers I just installed so I could have the plastic backs on the seats again.
https://youtu.be/6DcJKIH4FVc

https://youtu.be/Uukh75Casrw

 

It move the factory baffles? AWESOME!

 

Yeah if you ever hear a flapping sound it's those. The next thing I'm going to do is cut down the plastic storage bins and put them back on the back wall.

 

@1sttruckguy78 Whats the dimensions between the subs where your amp is mounted? Thx

 

In case anyone was wondering, the wire harness I linked last works perfect. I had to put it in and tap it until it went in far enough to clip, it fit a lot tighter than the OEM clip into the back of the head unit did.

I installed everything yesterday, and my truck sounds amazing now.

 

I honestly do not know because @Mr Marv built it for me and asked that I not give out the dimensions to his work.

 

Dude I'm sorry I didn't reply fast enough I'm hardly on here cause of work but I'm glad it worked out!!!

 

I wanted to hear thoughts on this quote I got yesterday.

 

Should sound great if they properly tune it!

Not sure how they got $650 for the total labor cost. If you add up all their hand-written prices, it adds up to $640...which I think might be a little much. Since they are already running wires, it shouldn't be another $40 to run a wire for the bass remote knob. And since they are doing the box and sub, it's going to take only a few extra minutes to add the sub amp to it all. On the other-hand, I'm surprised they didn't charge you with time spent on tuning the system! So it may all be a wash.

Don't forget that once the speakers are properly broken in (over a couple weeks), the sound will slightly change. It may not be enough to need any re-tuning, but if it seems different (usually a slightly better), you'll know why.

I'd like to see what your thoughts are on the sound once it is installed!

 

I also did a JL audio build
2ea 8"w3's on XD 300/1
4ea 6 1/2"excelron on XD 400/1
Lc7i, amp kit, sound deadner, carpet &glue, and upgraded RCA's
All together was around $2,300 that's with no labor cost

 

Do you like the JL subs? I’m going to have to do this in sections or my wife will lay the law down. I’m going to do the subs first. I just don’t want to spend extra if two subs doesn’t have a very noticeable difference over 1. Thoughts from anyone on two 10s vs 1?

 

Great thread (I finally read through the whole thing). Thanks 1sttruckguy78 for keep up with it!

I have only just started piecing together my system but I have not had the time to do the actual install. The only time I did have, was to do a quick test of the tweeters using the factory wiring. Keep in mind, I don't have the plug-and-play Subaru tweeters that everyone is installing. My tweeters are actually part of a component set. Despite this, I was able to make it work (while also keeping the stock 6x9's working).

When you take out the stock tweeter (which are really just small mids), you can unclip and then peel the white harness (and capacitor) from the back of the tweeter. It has some thin rubber/glue on it, but it comes off very easily.


Once you have that the harness off of the tweeter, you can connect your new tweeter to the pos and neg wires like I have in the pic.


Finally, plug in the white harness back into the factory wiring and it all works like a charm.

This is only temporary (I really did it just as a test), but just by adding the new tweeters (without any amplification) there was definitely an improvement! Unfortunately, it highlights the shortcomings of the door speakers so much more. lol Just more of an incentive for me to get started with the rest...