How to change your coolant! 05-15 1grfe

other threads are vague. Not very concise. Too many opinions. So here it is! Remember: I am not a professional mechanic. This is what I did. My truck did not immediately explode. So it may not be PERFECT to some standards, but there is atleast 90% fresh coolant in my truck, Which was the goal.

I do not know how to add multiple photos per post, photos will be labeled below.

Tools needed:
1/4" ID hose of 3-5' length
10mm wrenches
Sockets: 10mm, 12mm
Ratchet wrench
Multiple extensions
3 gallons of Toyota Super Long Life Coolant (SLLC)
Drain bucket (you guessed it, at least 3 gallons)
Maybe one of those body contortion artists



Step one: drop the skid plate.

Step two: remove radiator cap, remove overflow reservoir cap.

Step three - radiator: the initial drain will start on the radiator. On the driver-most side of the radiator there will be a funky hole with a wing style screw directly behind it. Turn counterclockwise, let it drain. Photo attached to the thread.

Step four - Passenger side: after that has drained, move onto the passenger side. remove the splash guard. Right in front of your face there will be a drain cock with a nut on top. Take your tube and slip that cock inside your tube. The 1/4" tube is pretty tight. You might want to lube up before slipping the cock in, I went in raw myself. It just took some extra work.... okay enough of that. Take your 10mm and loosen the nut counter clockwise DO NOT REMOVE THEM ALL THE WAY. STOP LOOSENING THE NUT ONCE COOLANT BEGINS FLOWING. Allow flow to stop, tighten the nut back up. Photo below labeled step four.

Step five - driver side: this is proof satan exists. THERE IS A THIRD DRAIN. It's in a similar location as the other one. Repeat step four, loosen(not remove), allow drainage, tighten. I will say this would be slightly easier had I removed the wheel. Remove splash guard. First, visually locate the cock and nut. Work your hands in to the right of the shock tower. Feel around until you find the cock, then slip your tube over it. Now.. if you have your body contortionist, put he/she/it to work. If not, take your 10mm wrench and try to place it on the nut. I used my line of extensions like a lever and used that to push on the 10mm wrench to break it free. I later found that a ratchet with a 10mm deep well works great if you can get it positioned on there. Also, one can perform a reach-around method and go up through the path of the exhaust and reach the drain to try it from a different angle. This part sucks. Be patient. Have fun. Drain. Tighten. Done. Photo below.

Step six - fill: start going into the radiator. Be sure you have closed all drains. My system took about two gallons. Drove around. Held proper running temperatures. topped off at home.

I am going to keep my 3rd gallon with me in the truck for the next few days and periodically check. I have +/- 9 quarts in the truck now. Drained out about the same (a lot of it is on the driveway).

Results: I would swear, under oath in court, this made my truck run slightly quieter. Coolant is also a lubricant. I could tangibly feel a difference between the old and the new on my fingers as well. Great "peace of mind" for $60 in coolant and 2 hours of work.

 

Photo for step four

 

Photo for step five

 

Keep talkin'.....I'm almost done.

 

Cocks. Cocks everywhere

 

Maybe so. But nice write.

Some people just do the radiator, drive it around for a week or so and do the radiator again. That will net you mostly new fluid as well.

 

Well shit. That sounds way better than what I did. Also meant to note that after struggling to work that cock open for 2 hours (driver side, proof of Satan), less than a quart came out lol.

 

you the man!

 

Subed

 

What do you mean just the radiator?

 

Maybe you didn't work the cock enough?

 

drain the radiator and fill it back up without draining the engine block.

 

Or maybe I overworked the cock.. that would explain the lack of.. nevermind.

Multiple times, letting the old and new coolant become homogeneous enough to dilute and slowly(with a lot of waste) you have mostly new coolant. It'll work for sure though. The passenger side was seriously easier than the radiator drain imo. Atleast do those two.

 

Hmmm, never thought about doing it that way..... maybe I'll try that since it seems to be less of a hassle albeit more expensive with having to use more radiator fluid.

Would you have to burp the system at all?

 

yea, definitely still have to burp the system

 

Elaborate. What is "burping"?

 

letting the air out - leave the radiator cap off for a few min so air bubbles can escape

 

I've always just filled it, started, filled as it dropped.

 

After draining all the coolant I could from the rad and the engine block, I filled with distilled water; went for a drive; then drained again and filled with anti-freeze. This helps get out the extra quart or two that remains in the the block and heater core, plus get out some extra sediment. It helps having a lift as I had no problems accessing the block drain valves without removing the tires. On driver side, I used a two-foot long extension plus a foot long extension with a wobble end. When I replaced the coolant, I also replaced the rad hoses and thermostat - cheap insurance for about an extra $50. BTW, I don't do corporate anti-freeze; I've always replaced it with universal antifreeze.

 

How much coolant does this replace?