Reheat & Lockers?

Hi guys, just planning my build a little bit in the time being. Wanting to regear my 4.10s to 4.88 or higher to turn 35" tires. Also would like to add an ARB air locker both front and rear. Who has done this and can talk about the install cost? Any other optionz on the lockers? Stock elocker? Any help would be great. Guessing I would save time and money by doing both the regear and locker at the same time. Thanks

 

Go 5.29's with 35's and a 4cyl.

I had the exact setup done on my truck for under $3k total, 2x ARBs and gears f/r.

 

I run 30 inch tall rubber on the OE 3.58 gears. Toyota used 4.10 gears for that particular size tires. 4.88's will not be enough for 35's but it could work depending on tire weight and rolling resistance.

What year us your truck and is it a manual or auto? From that info you can find the OE gearing and with a little math you can get the right sized gears to get the engine RPM near stock levels.

 

Bump. I too am curious. I want 4.56's for 33's. Thoughts?

 

I have 4.88s and a Trutrac in the rear of my 2014 Reg Cab 4x4 auto. I am running 285-75/16s with these gears and it's great, but will not be enough for 35s. But, if you have a 2nd Gen Tacoma, 4.88s are the lowest gears you can get. The front clamshell will not accept 5.29s. If it would, I would have gotten 5.29s.
I had ECGS do all my work for me, at their shop, and the total was $2200.

 

That would be an ok setup, but if you routinely drive over any hill or mountain passes, or grades, you will be wishing you went with 4.88. Another thing most people do not think about is that there will be less strain and load on your transmission, giving you less wear and tear and better longevity. The trade off would be more fuel costs.

Personally, a more reliable transmission is worth more than the added fuel costs.

 

I should add to my response that... 4.88s with 35s will not be ideal, but I do believe it will be bearable, especially if you have a manual transmission.

 

Based on a tire size calculator off a jeep site 4.56s with 33's would be very close to the overall stock gearing. So if you were starting with 4.10s and had stock tire size that combination would be close to the overall stock gear ratio so you wouldn't be losing much acceleration.

 

If you want selectable lockers your options are going to be ARB air lockers or Harrop E-Lockers.

 

Have you read anything about the Harrop lockers? Any reviews?

 

1st question is why do you need 35"? I don't care, but you might want ask yourself that question. It becomes an expensive build if it's just a poseur.

If you do need them for actual function, or even if you're into fakery, the tire calculator will help you compare/contrast diameters and effective gear ratios.

As far as us helping choose, knowing how you use the truck, the transmission type and the mechanical health of the truck would be useful.

And from a practical side, keep in mind the ratio of your expenses to the value of the vehicle. Because insurance will never pay out on the mods (unless you've declared them and upped your premiums) in event of a boo-boo, and resale will get you 50% of your mod $, on a really good day.

If the truck is a keeper, doesn't matter so much. If you change vehicles more than you change socks, well............

At the end of the day it's your money. Just seen enough folks regret their choices financially that it's a worthy reminder to consider it before signing up.

 

Looked at some of the Harrop/Eaton lockers......$1700 for one....I think Id rather run ARB lockers and have a compressor on board at the same time for that price.

 

I have them front and rear. They're like $1300. It's a simpler system

 

$1300 a piece?

 

do it right the first time. 5.29s

 

Yeah

 

First off, 5.29s don't fit in a second gen so if op has a second gen then they're not an option. Secondly 4.88s and 35s are perfect. I would know I have them. Personally I would go with arb over the e lockers but that's just me. It boils down to personal preference as the after market e lockers are pretty good. Lastly keep in mind you'll need to clearance and cut your truck. No amount of functional suspension lift will save you from that. Also I strongly recommend spindle gussets. You will need to cut 2.5" from the fenders and flare in the front, you will need to cut the shit out of the cab mounts and box them and you'll need a minimum rim backspace of 4.25" also beat that pinch weld and fire wall like it owes you money. Then check the fire wall for leaks as you might hit it too hard and separate the seam sealer. Also you inner fender liners won't be much use after so expect to come up with an intake solution I opted for the snorkel option. After all that you can install your tires.

Totally worth it

 

If you want to try a Harrop, they are on sale through Monday - $100 off

We have sold over 400 in the US in the last couple of years, no complaints, they work well.

Check it out: http://mailchi.mp/7b82601e77f7/cruiser-brothers-black-friday-sale

 

5.29's are available now for 2nd gen front clamshell. Yukon Gear makes them and ECGS has them as an option. They're new on the market and I wish I had them instead of 4.88's.