Rear shock relocation cost?

I'm looking into a full Fox setup. I have a guy in Cali that will valve me some 2.5's for the front and 2.0 resi's for the rear. Only thing is that the rear "OE" replacements on offer from Fox only offer the stock 6"? of travel and can't be re-valved and he says they aren't that good out of the box. This guy knows his stuff.

The shocks he recommended to match the front valving (and will as my buddy says "be Tits") will require a rear shock mount replacement and will allow for I believe 10" of travel.

So how much did you all pay to have a setup welded up that allows for said relocation. There is a shop he recommends here in DFW that does fab work. Before I call I'd like a comparison.

 

I got my shock relocation done by a professional shop with a new sua setup. Anyway mine came out to 1700 but I think about 950 of it was for the shock relocation. I had the bamf brackets and when we called him he couldn't give any references for shit. I would look into archive garage as they have better references for install that way you can install 14s instead 12s.

 

From what I understand, this will be a tube welded between the frame rails, and some tabs that relocate the shocks welded to those along with the appropriate gussets and bracing. That can't be $1700 bucks...or even 950, can it?

 

Are you going to get premade tubes or like a bed cage? I would assume around 6-900 depending on the shop prices.

 

Nothing too extreme. Just something that will keep it all under the bed, and allow me to install his setup. I don't need crazy amounts of travel. I know nothing about what is needed. A buddy who is pretty knowledgeable about fab work forwarded me a link to the BAMF rear shock relocation bracket. It's 200, plus whatever to weld. I'll have to forward that to the guy valving the shocks and see if it will work. Just feeling out you all for some general guidance.

 

Check out the Solo Motorsports shock hoops for 1st Gen trucks.
https://www.solomotorsports.com/sho...ion-toyota-parts/toyota-w-y-shock-hoops-rear/

I have a buddy that runs this kit with 10" travel 2.5 King piggyback shocks. This setup works extremely well in comparison to a stock shock location setup.

 

I found a weld in rear mount for the 1st Gen. I need to call my shock guy but I think with a Dakar springs I can run a 10" shock. I have an 8" available if I'm too short. I'm guessing a setup like this will ride tons better than what I have now.

Looking at a 2.5 non resi in the front and a 2.0 resi in the rear. The 2.5 resi shocks in the front may be overkill for me. Thoughts?

Is the ride that much better with a resi shock? I don't have an LT setup, and I don't do high speeds.

 

A front 2.5 shock could be overkill, but they provide a lot of features and parts availability that other small shock would not provide. Keep the plan to go 2.5's in the front. You likely do not need reservoirs. It is better to buy once then to have to upgrade again down the road.

As for the rear a 2.0 shock will be sufficient. Get the reservoirs if you can.

As far as the shock relocation, BAMF makes great stuff. I have their second Gen shock relocation kit and couldn't be happier. Depending on what you intend to do there could be pro's and con's to mounting the shocks underneath the bed at an angle like the bamf kit, or outside of the frame rails in a more vertical orientation like the solo kit.

 

The solo kit is a good kit... BUT many don’t run it because they rub the shock bodies if you have 2.5s or have to get spacers in the rear. Since your getting the 2.0s you’ll be fine though. They are outboard of the frame so you’ll get the “bling” factor and thats the best place for stability outboard of the frame.

I run the BAMF relocation and like it now. Its taken me 3 times to get it setup properly with the shocks angled like this ( l l ) opposed to mounting like this ( / \ ). I get a clean 10” of travel with the deaver j59 pack. For welding on the bamf kit I wish it fit together better but I had to do some extra fab in order for mine to work. I also took the bed off to do it right and you gotta measure measure measure and cycle cycle cycle. For the cycling of the leafs and shock relocation and bump cycling it honestly took about 15 hours of work.

The leaf pack dictates travel. Then you measure for a shock that will work for your relocation

 

this took 2 hours and scrap steel was free.

no i didn't break the packs down and cycle the suspension. i made sure the shocks weren't topping out at full droop and was planning to relocate bumps if they bottomed out. luckily the 10" stroke shocks worked out perfect with the stock bump location

 

I'm certainly not a professional fabricator, but it took a lot of hours to get mine right. Welding in a crossmember and some tabs is the easy part, cycling and getting everything to work right is what takes time.

 

Both of those look good guys! I have a shop here that I will hopefully get to set up the proper placement for a 10" shock with the BAMF mount. I'll be sure to get them to go full droop and be sure things are good. I hope a 10" will work.

 

Getting them setup for full bump is probably more important than full droop.

You can just barley squeeze a 10" shock if you do it right. I've got them as close to the bed as possible, and the lower mounts still sit below the axle. Not sure how fox works, but make sure to order them as short as possible.

 

some shocks, especially those kings use long bodies. some of the emulsions or remote ressi shocks have super short collapsed lengths. you can fit a 12" 7100 short body under the bed

 

I put my kit together from Ruffstuff. http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com...t_Code=R2121&Category_Code=toyotaminitaco4run
U bolt flip kit
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com...y_Code=shockbracketstabs&Store_Code=ruffstuff
There stuff is absolutely bomb proof. Shock perches welded to the axle tube and up top to a 1-1/2" x .120 wall square tube above the frame rails stuffed up about a 1/2" below the bed. Helps if you have a body lift, I run an inch so I have extra clearance.

I have fox 10" rear shocks, still hardly get all the travel out of them. Still get a lot more travel than I did at the stock mounting points. I pushed them as far out as I could to keep the stock spare tire location, I can still get a 35" if I wanted, though I made a custom mount for that too to clearance it up another 2-1/2"
Ride height after a leaf pack rebuild

 

Right now for the rear I was given a choices of either a 10.1" travel shock that's 15.85 collapsed or a 8.1" travel that is 13.85 collapsed. It looks as if someone ran a 10" shock with the BAMF mount under his vendor page. I'm sure that won't be a problem.

Also, I have an extended brake line for the rear but will I need an even longer one?

Edit: Thanks for the pics and the help. It looks like I'm entering a whole new dimension with a set up like that.

 

Yea look about exactly like mine when I did it as far as where the top of the shock sits. About 1/4" from the bed. I remember reading your setup when I was fixing mine...

I think you can just detach the line from the frame and it should be long enough.