OEM Heated Mirrors DIY mod

Hi guys, new to this forum but had to get on just to thank Benson X. What a great write-up. It did take me (and the better half) the best part of 2 days but it all worked well and looks really sharp on my 2013.
Sourcing was a bit challenging from here (Canada), so here is what I did: the switch, the plug and the plug connector were purchase from Amaya ma (they came from UAE). I went with the fit system mirrors from Amazon, the rest of the supply came from princess auto... final cost about $280 Can. Not bad at all. The biggest pain is to solder the dimmer wires.
Thanks again.

 

So I upgraded my Tacoma mirrors to the larger flip-out tow mirrors, and have already pulled the wires for the heaters through the door boot, and now trying to figure out what to do next, if I even want to try to use the heaters. As the Highlander heater switches seem difficult to locate at a reasonable price, I was looking also at a Lexus 2003-2009 switch part 84871-60030, which seems identical to the Highlander 84871-48030.

Also curious if anyone had tried a combined replacement for the power mirror switch with the power folding like 84872-52040 (Camry/Scion/Lexus?) (pictured) which also seems to be 84870-0C040 (Sequoia/Tundra). This one seems to have two additional pins over the stock mirror switch, but the harness connector appears to be the same. Have to figure out how that button functions, to see possibility of timers and relays to repurpose for heat. Checking the junk yards this weekend to try to find one and pull the harness with it.
Stock switch

 

It is identical in dimensions, electrical connection & graphics. The only real difference is 84871-60030 will heat for 5 minutes whereas 84871-48030 will heat for 15 minutes.

Can't say for sure on 84872-52040 but I can confirm the 84870-0C040 fits perfectly as a replacement switch.

You are correct, the 84870-0C040 will fit with your existing connector.

Hope that helps!

 

After installing AM Autoparts flip-out tow mirrors AM-2757980384, I'm ready to heat them up.
So, my plan is to use the Camry mirror switch with folding button (above) to activate the heater relay.
To connect into my stock 7-pin harness [clarify: 10 pin positions, 7 used] for the extra pins, I acquired a Toyota wiring harness repair pigtail 82998-12420, to connect one pin to trigger the timer relay. As this won't provide the timer function of the Highlander switch, I sought to find a relay which had built in timer function.

I believe the

$64 HELLA 996152131 12V Delay-On-Release, Time Delay Relay, Black

HELLA 996152131 12 Volt 5 Pin 0-900s Delay Off Time Control Unit
would probably work, and is locally sourceable, but I found an interesting relay from HC Cargo,
160927 12V, 10A Adjustable Delay Timer Relay (Delay ON or OFF) Shipped from UK (specs), which has a much wider time range configuration, and since it can be either delay on or delay off, and has both NO and NC load output, I also just want to play with it and see if I get any ideas of other nifty things it could do. Will mount with a relay socket like this one

using crimp on terminals, to try to minimize wire to wire butt-splices.
That photo is the

$7 Hella Relay Socket Mini 5 Term Bkt 1

HELLA part, but I got an equivalent part from the same UK merchant for 1/4 the price.

It will take a week or two for all the parts to arrive, and I'll follow up with results.

Thank you to everyone who has contributed in this thread, I wouldn't have known where to even start without the great work you've done. I also pulled some information from these pages:

DIY: How to install JDM Prius power folding side mirrors

Toyota Corolla Королевишна (Parking mirror mod, looks cool, but I can't read Russian) Scion, Help with electric retract mirrors

 

I did this mod two years ago (pre-kit, unfortunately), but discovered recently that both mirrors weren't heating up anymore. After checking and re-checking the wiring/connectors, the failure seemingly had to come down to either a bad relay or bad mirror switch (I used the Highlander switch from page 1 of this mod). Since it's cheap, I tried replacing the relay first, but of course that didn't fix it. Not knowing if/how the existing mirror switch can be tested to see if it's bad, I took the $70 leap of faith and replaced the switch - and voila, the mirrors worked again.

'Just wanted to pass on my experience to others who might run into this same issue, and ask if there's a relatively simple way to test the switch, in case any of us run into the same issue again somewhere down the line.

 

FYI: The Door panel removal guide has changed location. Here is the new link:
http://shop.muthco.com/content/pdf/install/21001150.pdf
@Benson X

 

Just finished this mod and it works a dandy! Total cost $95 and it looks and works practically identical to what factory Toyota would be.

Parts:
$8 Add-a-circuit and terminals (I had wire already)
$35 Trail Toys custom defrost films (perfect fit!)
$20 Toyota push button mirror switch from CH4X4 on ebay
$32 TDR-MC time delay relay from Wolsten Tech

Switch dims nice with my other dash lights and the mirrors turn off after whatever time you set on the TDR relay or you can cancel it out if you want to turn it off early by pressing the button again.

I had to do the switch mod that someone else posted on here where you make the switch momentary instead of latching and soldered in new wires to the status led so it stays lit when the mirrors are powered.

All in all, it took a good while to route the wires to keep my ocd under control but it works great for the price in my opinion. Both mirrors only draw 1.5 amps total and heat up nice. Added bonus is that I have it set to trigger when my auto-start activates as well.

Very satisfied.

 

Well, I spent the better part of the weekend installing power mirrors on my 2012 base regular cab and the heated glass mod. The mirrors work but left is right and vice versa (passenger and driver sides are correct but the left directional moves the mirrors right and right moves them left). I used a switch from an 05 solara which looks identical to the tacoma switch but assume there may be a difference on the board of the switch.

The heated mirrors do not work because, after reading through a few key posts, I did not splice 86 into 30, and simply ran 86 to the add-a-fuse, and 30 to pin 5 on the switch. The other issue I'm experiencing is that when I test the circuit, the mirror switch cannot be turned off by pressing it again. I have to turn the key to off. I am getting 12v from 86 but like .035 from 30.

Would it be just as effective to simply link 86 to 30 instead of cutting the wire from 86, running a quick splice into 30, then running another quick splice on 30 to the add-a-fuse?

 

I used a different relay but 86 to 85 is the coil of the relay and that's what you want to control with the switch. 30 to 87 should be connected inline to your mirrors so that when the coil is energized it makes the connection between 30 and 87 to the heating element.

And yes, you could tie 86 and 30 together if you are just using the one 12v source like the original post diagram but I think it depends how your switch is setup too. Looks like you've just got a few wires crossed if you hit the switch and the relay is staying latched.

I made a quick sketch wire diagram on paper before I hooked everything up and just followed that without second guessing myself and everything worked great. I would suggest you do the same. Best of luck!

 

I did as well, and have been researching this for weeks to make sure everything is correct. I really just need someone to sit down and explain to me how 86, 30, pin 5, and the 12v source interact. I swear, I have never had issues wiring anything, and I've done stereos, car stereos, pro audio, engines, 4 wire o2 sensors, but this is kicking my butt. I followed everything else verbatim and used all of the same parts, down to the same sumitomo leads for the switch. This is the only place I'm getting stuck. Read post 1, then post 94 (pg. 5) from the OP and you'll see where I'm getting confused.

 

man looks like you're covering your bases. Maybe your switch is bad like one of the earlier posts seems to think. Can you function check the relay and the switch with a meter to make sure they're operating properly?

 

takito12 get it figured out?

 

Finished this mod last weekend, love it. Had to do it twice (kind of) because I assumed the door wouldn't be electrically isolated from the rest of the truck (since, ya know, metal hinges and metal bolts) but apparently it is so I got to re-run my ground wires. Oh well.

 

Ha I almost did the same thing and crimped one side to a bolt in the door and then ended up running a ground wire for my own peace of mind.

This is probably the only feature I think Toyota really should have known better to put in. We have rear-view cameras but no heated mirrors?? What's a girl to do?!

 

Especially since the highlander mirrors ARE THE SAME EXACT THING! Blows my mind that they didn't at least offer a cold weather package in the Tacoma. Heated mirrors and seats, easy peasy.

 

I figured it out the next day. I just used a t-crimp to run 86 to 30, and another to connect the add-a-fuse to 30. Works great now! Nice to have power mirrors now as well. I believe I had $100 in the oem used 2014 power mirrors and another $30 in wire and switch, then $225 for the heated mirror parts including new oem highlander glass. In addition, I used the cool blue NEO3-WHP bulb from superbrightleds, which matches the 12-15 white backlit instrumentation very well.

 

Great idea. Tacomaworld discount code?

 

Thanks to BensonX and everyone else who has provided info on this thread. Last week I ordered parts to add heated mirrors to my 2014. The switch and heated mirror pads arrived this week.

I hooked up the pads to a 12V 2A supply to verify they work. Each pad draws roughly 600mA at 12v so roughly 7w per pad. I got the pads off eBay since I don’t mind having to dremel out the mirror backplate when the time comes.

I also modified the AirOnBoard switch to have the heated mirror LED red and the mirror wording green. I also cut and jumped the PCB so the heated mirror red LED will turn on only when the time delay relay it will be hooked up to is heating the mirrors. Kudos to AirOnBoard for swapping my order to momentary although this switch is only listed as on/off on their website.

I can’t wait until the time delay relay I ordered from Wolstentech arrives so I can get the heated mirrors mod completed. I’ll post pictures of the mods I made to the switch and the circuit I’m using once I confirm it all works.

 

I need to do this mod.

 

So I got the switch and WolstenTech time delay relay installed this weekend. Hopefully next weekend I'll be able to install the heated mirror pads and get that all wired up. Here are some photos that I took during the first portion of the install.


Current (633 mA) and voltage draw (11.54 Vdc) sourced from a 12V wallwart power supply. So roughly 7W per mirror heater pad. Just doing some initial bench testing.





PCB of AirOnBoard momentary switch PCB before modifications.



Modified AirOnBoard switch. One trace cut and one trace jumpered with a wire. LED locations swapped (so green lights up "Heated Mirrors" wording and red lights up the heated mirror icon) and resistor values increased to reduce LED intensity. Green LED will be connected to switched power so it will always be on when the truck is on. Red LED will turn on only when the mirrors are heating. Momentary connection to ground (when switch is pressed) will connect to negative (low) triggered input on Time Delay Relay module.




Harness for the switch prior to installation. I wish I had some nylon braided wire sleeving instead of this other stuff. I'm ordering some for when I install the wiring to the mirror heater pads.


Dashboard pulled apart to access the upper switch bank and install the heated mirror switch.



Time delay relay module placed in area under center console cupholders. I didn't see an nice spot to cleanly mount it under the dash since there are so many wires. I don't think I've seen any photos on this site of the relay module getting mounted in this location. I used a star lock washer, nut, and Loctite blue to secure the relay module in place. I'll probably paint the screw heads black so they don't stand out so much.