Bad Door Lock Actuators?

Thanks!

I was in a hurry to fix, and it was the best I could come up with in the 30 minute time space I had to remove, repair, and reinstall.

Comparing my photo to the good one below, it appears a white circular piece of plastic was missing from mine. I shook the actuator, but nothing came out... Not sure where it went. lol

Mine


Good

 

Replaced my driver's door actuator. When I open and close the driver's door with the key in the ignition, the doors lock then unlock every time. Anybody else experience this tor have any suggestions.

 

So with the key in the ignition and you in the truck (is it running or off), you open then shut the doors. Then the truck automatically locks, then unlocks?

Didn't think any Tacos had it, but my wife's Camry has protection similar to that so you don't lock your keys in the vehicle. Actually the more I think of it, I think the Tacos do have it, but I would have to test it. I'm just not sure would it would lock first without you initiating the lock? I believe the safety feature, will not let you lock the doors if the keys are in the ignition (but not started). It basically knows that the keys are still in it and it doesn't want you to lock them in. Also, I know here Camry, when started and shifting drive, this engages all of the locks, again for safety.

In short, we need more specifics about how and what is happening? Is it just when the keys are in the ignition? If so it is likely a safety thing (as long as it is not auto locking it on you).

 

I had the same problem, the problem is inside the actuator. There is a very small think piece of metal holding back a black push up switch. the metal slips down and then does not hold the switch back so the truck thinks the truck thinks your lock is locked all the time even when there open. i have attached two pictures. Good luck guys

Mike

 

i forgot you quote you guys in the above post, i hope this finds you well

 

99 times out 100 when I attempt something like this, it usually results in me smashing something with a hammer in a fit of rage and wasting a shit ton of money to buy a new version of whatever I broke. This was the 1 time that everything worked flawlessly and I now have my driver side door lock actuator functioning like new.

Excellent write-up, it'll take half the time to do my passenger side if it ever shits the bed.

 

I attempted to perform this myself. When I opened the actuator case it kinda popped apart and two parts came out. I replaced the servo and I tried to put it all back together from the pics that are posted. I reinstalled it in the truck and like the rocket scientist I am, closed the door before testing. Now the door won't open back up. The lock cable came off so I have to figure out how to unlock/open it without the cable attached to the actuator.

Any clever peeps out there have a solution that doesn't include dynamite???

 

I have a 2010 Tacoma and right now 3 of my 4 door locks have gone bad. Searching on this site, I am seeing this is a common problem with this particular year. Any way this can be put in for a possible recall request???

 

Doubtful. I use to work for a car company. They will only do a recall if/when lives are in danger. And even that normally won't cause it unless they have calculated that it will negatively effect their bottom line. Sucks.

 

Man I bought two motors for $11 bucks on eBay, and took about 2 hours to replace both. It's an easy enough fix - as soon as you do the first door, you can do the following doors twice as fast. Pretty easy process.

 

Just be UBER careful pulling the box apart. I wasn't and parts went flying. I ended up screwing up putting all the gears back inside correctly and now my rear pass door is closed and locked. I'm going to have to cut through the door and hack the door latch in order to replace the whole actuator. Just be careful and patient.

 

I tried this fix and the motor appears to be working, however the door will not unlock. Luckily I still have the door panel off, but nothing that I do will release the lock. Is there anything short of busting up the actuator that will get the door to unlock??

 

I'm assuming this has been resolved after 6 months?

I know there was another guy on here who did it, but got it open.

 

Does anyone know if this was resolved? If so, how? I'm in the same boat.

Thanks,

Mike

 

Are you referring to the one above who couldn't get the door to unlock? Not sure?

Do you still have the panel off on yours with the door shut?

 

I need to repair my driver side door motor actuator on a 2013 DBCB.
The part selection has me confused. I know I need a flat head shaft but what is the length?
This site seems to say "long" (20mm).
But other sites I have seen "short" (9mm?). One place on Amazon says short for any Toyota after 2011.

Does anyone know?
Thanks

 

What did you use to clean the carbon buildup?

 

They used spray electrical cleaner. You can replace with this:

$7 20mm D Flat Shaft Central Door Lock Actuator Motor FC-280PC-22125, Long D Spindle, Power Locking Repair Engine

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LY3WG5R/

 

Just ordered it, thank you!

 

Does anyone here have a picture of what the inside of the actuator looks like from the front driver door? I have a 2013 DCSB and took mine apart. But, I was stupid and didn't take pictures. Now nothing is working properly and I think that a piece is out of place.