Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Brian makes some gorgeous hunks of metal that's for sure!

 

... yes he does.
Here are my front & rear Diamonds:

 

Pricey but they are awesome axles for sure.

 

Well diamond doesn't seem interested in my business so moving onto ruffstuff. Waiting for axle tube measurements on Monday to make sure it will all fit.

 

???? What happened ?

 

Well I guess neither company is making it easy but ruffstuff has Atleast answered my emails and gotten back to me. It's to much money when they don't want to answer questions.

 

Get an fj60 or 62 axle and tell them both to fuck off!!

 

And this is exactly why I ultimately decided to move away from toyota-based axles and drive train parts. Too many frustrations trying to talk to vendors, crazy wait times for parts, etc.

Ruff Stuff has good customer service. Haven't had a negative experience with their customer service so far.

that or wontons for the ultimate price-to-weight ratio experience

 

Has nothing to do with toyota based or wait times. Would be having the same issues if i was building 609s. Nobody wants to give out their numbers for whatever reason but I'm not going to hand over $1500 if you can't send me the email you said you would and make me call back a 3rd time. I'm trying to give them money and they don't seem to want it.

This should be an easy process. I'm the not the 1st one building an axle like this. Should be able to look up in their book of past axles they have built (which they both told me they have) give me the measurements of the tubes and everything. I make sure they clear my suspension and motor and I send them the money to build the axle. But they want to keep it all a secret.

No one tons. Can't build a set for 2 grand so they are out of the budget. And not everyone needs one tons. Plenty of guys who beat on their stuff harder than I do with 40 in stickys and bigger motors and don't break stuff. Kind of tired of the "one tons, links, 40s and coilovers or you built your truck wrong And don't actually wheel" argument. Literally just went through this in my build a few weeks ago..

 

Considering everything from the knuckle ball out on the 60 series cruisers is the same as a mini truck, and the only other part he would need is 1inner shaft(off a 40) for the short side, a locker and gears i would say that's pretty cost effective.

I hear ya malburg, I noticed that's the norm these days all over. I need some house work done and don't have the time or drive to finish it, and it's amazing how many contractors don't even answer their phone, let alone return calls!

 

If ruffstuff doesn't work out I'll just run what I have. Works great even though everyone tells me i cant wheel it cause it's leaf springs on 37s with no beadlocks and toyota axles....

 

Don't forget you built it in your garage, you don't have the skills that a shop does to build a truck right....


I disagree on the beadlocks part, you really can't wheel without those!

 

I just think things are worse with toyota parts. Never tried to order an axle from ruff stuff so I cannot comment on how they handle that part of their business.

wontons are not needed. It is all based on personal preference at the end.

Oh, i agree. As you know my friend ZUK built his truck with that axle and it is really an awesome rig. For those wanting to stay with all-toyota axles I think that's a great choice.

If it works it works then. That's all it matters.

 

That totally sucks, what measurements are you really looking For?

At 67wms you should be very far from anything rubbing?

 

Just axle tube lengths. They told me how wide the center section is and total tube lengths are but I want to make sure the 3rd won't get into the oil pan so want indivdual tube lengths. It "shouldn't" but it's a lot of money to screw up so just want to make sure. Also wanted to see what some common caster and pinion angles people ran where and all they could say is whatever I want or stock. I don't know what to run so I wanted to see what they recommended or other people ran. Not like I'm asking for anything crazy or top secret. I would do it all myself but I don't have anyway to make a jig for the knuckle balls or else I would weld it all myself and just buy a bare housing.

But in ruffstuff defense they have answered all my questions and supposed to get me the lengths on Monday. Guess I thought it was going to be easier than what is.

 

Ah I see makes sense. Was just curious why. Figure it would help to ask why and what issues you ran into since I'll be ordering their front and rear housings in a few weeks/month.

I would get them just to tack the perches, knuckle balls, etc that way you can dial in the rest and set it exactly as you need it.

Did you cut and turn your factory housing?

 

Not major issues i guess just lack of communication. I'm just going to do stock caster and pinion angle. Maybe 2 degrees up on the pinion but plan is to get a high pinion if I ever have any problems.

I was thinking that but stock everything works fine now I just want the width and to make sure it is all straight and true so I don't have any problems. And reality is I just want to be able to pull the old axle out and disassemble it and bolt everything onto the new axle. Willing to pay the extra money for them to do the hard work. I'll weld the diff armor and knuckle ball gussets but I'll have them weld the perches, balls and shock mounts probably. It's wheeling season here and having to much fun using the truck rather than working on it.

Never did cut and turn my knuckle balls on the factory housing. Never had vibes or problems.

 

Welding the knuckle balls on is easy. Get a super accurate digital level, I got a square one off Amazon I can get you the part number if you want. Read zuks build thread on yotatech, he has a ton of good tips in there, that's what I used. Once you get the castor set with the level, burn it in! If I can do it and have the truck drive fine ANYONE can! I aimed for 7* and ended up with 6 i think when the welding was done. More castor will also raise your tie rod up, so if you are super low slung you have to account for that. More castor is typically better, example: one guy I wheel with has 12° on his 4runner he drives on the street and loves it.

 

Have u been talking to Brian? Because he has answered every question I've had way past what I wanted. If ur taking to his dumbass "assistant" Cadence or something, then you'll get nowhere

 

Not sure who I talked to the 1st and 2nd time, was a guy but don't remember their name and don't think it was Brian cause I thought for sure he would be able to answer my questions like everyone says he can. May give them the benefit of the doubt and give them another call this week just to compare prices.