Pads and Rotors on a 4x4 1st gen

So I'm trying to find a write up/video how to on brake pads and rotors for a 4x4 1st gen. Lots of these videos on youtube look great ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7SYZcjGAieA&t=21s ) but are for the 2wd truck. What's the difference for the 4wd model?

Is this accurate? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLk4sLXHHWg

Thanks!

 

Easy. Just did it today. You need two strong screwdrivers, a ratchet and socket to take off the two caliper mounting bolts, and maybe a pair of pliers (after you get the wheel off, of course). Have some emery cloth as well to clean off the axle flanges so the drums mount nice and flush. First, you use the two screwdrivers to pry on the rotor from both sides and you will get all 4 caliper pistons to fully retract at the same time. Then remove the pads by removing the retaining clip and the two pins at the top of the caliper. Pads just fall off in your hand.

 

Same thing. The easiest job ever. I still don't understand why people would pay hundreds of dollars for that.

 

And, unlike the video up top, I prefer to do the prying while the old pads and rotors are still in there. That way you're only prying on parts you are replacing and you can get all 4 pistons to retract at the same time. Otherwise, two pistons will pop out while you are popping the other two in. That x-shaped pad spreader from Snap-on works great too, but not everyone has access to it.

 

I got a cheap harbor freight spreader. It worked for one round of brakes and then went caput. Not a big deal for the price I paid and the probability that I won't need one again for a long time.

 

Maybe take it to the next level and do the very popular Tundra Brake Upgrade. Here's a video to learn more about it.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/P8zy-j4UBUo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

My brake fluid reservoir overflowed as I compressed the pistons. After finishing the job I put the cap back on and have driven around town with no problems. Do I need to bleed the system?

 

This is a step people often forget including myself. As your pads wear, your caliper pistons have to extend out further and you will notice that the level in your master cylinder has dropped. If you decided to top off your brake fluid level to max line on the master cylinder reservoir at some point, you now basically have more fluid than you need when it comes time to replace the pads. When you compress the caliper pistons to make room for the new pads, that fluid has to go somewhere and it travels the only place it can go, which is the master cylinder. To prevent the overflowing when you compress the caliper pistons, take a syringe or turkey baster and suck out some fluid to make room for the fluid that will be pushing up into the master cylinder.

If you fluid level is still over the max line, I'd suck some out until you level is no higher than the max line.

If it's been a while since you're bled the brakes, it's probably a good decision to bleed the brakes to get some new fluid in your system. Over time, moisture can make it's way into the brake fluid. Moisture is bad because it can cause corrosion. Take a look at the color of your brake fluid and compare it to some new fluid. If your fluid looks much darker than the new fluid, it's time to flush the system. Flushing the system is basically doing a bleeding process until you start seeing clean newer looking fluid coming out of your bleeders. You start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work your way back. So the order would be passenger side rear wheel, driver side rear wheel, passenger side front wheel and finally driver side front wheel. If you have a Load Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV) you would bleed that last. While you are bleeding the brakes, make sure you keep an eye on the level of the master cylinder and keep adding fluid so you don't drain it and introduce air into the master cylinder. Some years require the ignition to be in the "On" position to power the brake booster for proper bleeding. If you're unsure your particular year requires this, just turn your ignition key into the "On" position to play it safe. I know for 3rd Gen 4runners, it's years 2001 and 2002 that require the ignition to key to be in the "On" position so I'm assuming it would be years 2001 to 2004 for 1st Gen Tacomas.

Here's a video for those finding this thread on how to bleed/flush the brake system:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/rnyK3V-OGn4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

Hmm so is it unsafe to drive until I do this? The brake fluid is at max still

 

I think maybe you are misunderstanding what I shared. With the job complete, you want your brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir level with the max line, not flush with the very top of the master cylinder reservoir. You do not want it over the max line. If it is, grab a syringe or turkey baster and suction off the excess. I hope this makes sense.

 

No need to bleed it, if the job is done correctly. Bleeding is usually needed if you disconnect one of the hydraulic brake lines for some reason.

 

Yeah just remove some fluid from the reservoir like was mentioned and flush your lines at your leisure if the fluid is original.