How To Remove CV Axle+Replace Front Wheel Bearing 2nd Gen

when I did mine, I did them until tight with a wrench, then hooked a wrench to the other wrench to gain leverage to get the bolt a little more snug

so far so good

 

Same here

 

Update.

 

Is that a question?

 

Found a perfect seal driver for cv joint/wheel bearing in the back of the hub.
The dust cap.

 

Axle nut: 1
1/2” breaker bar: 0

 

$30 impact from HarborFreight.....does the job.

 

Hey

my craftsman impact wouldn’t budge it so I put my craftsman breaker bar on it with a 4 ft cheater pipe after I broke the Chinese one. That and some ATF/Acetone and it finally broke loose.

 

Got a lot of help on this thread to change out both axles and diff seals along with the ecgs bushing. About what everyone described here but the threaded base that goes behind the needle bearing was a pita to get in behind needle bearing. You definitely need a small magnet pen to help position the threaded base. I had to take a blunt punch and smack it good to get the threaded base behind bearing. Took many tries but it will go. At this time I chose not to change out both bearings but feel confident that as of right now they are OK. Also changed out the rough country spacer lift and added 2017 OR takeoffs. It made a world of difference and the whomp, whomp of needle bearing was totally gone. Like driving a new truck. Ricky

 

Dang, how long did you think that one side took? I plan to tackle this project soon, but only have done moderate repairs so far. The whomping noise is driving me nuts.

 

Maybe two hours if you have never been to your transfer case. The only real problem is getting the threaded base up behind the needle bearing. Use a magnetic pen to align the base horizontal and then take a blunt punch and hit it enough to seat it behind needle bearing. You will need someone to help you install the cv axle so you don't ruin your seal. Have someone guide the axle in to the transfer case and drive with a heavy hammer until it seats. Be sure to use a piece of wood between the hammer and axle. It's not rocket science but take your time and you will have no problems. I can tell you first hand that noise almost drove me crazy. I was so relieved when I drove the truck for the first time and didn't hear that noise. Rick

 

Difference around the c clip of old and new cv, supposed to look that different?

 

I actually have this same issue right now, did you use the original cv? Mine has a pretty good amount of lateral play and I’m still getting a vibration and a (whomp whomp whomp) noise but neither are anywhere near what they were before and they go away when I turn left.

 

@KenpachiZaraki how long have you had the aftermarket CV's on there? Any problems or tearing from the boots?

 

Where did you get the cv axle from? Are you sure it is the correct one? Why the difference on the end of the shaft by the c clip?

 

I got it from O’Reillys, it has about 1/4” of play at the dif. Going to pull it back out and take it back to O’Reillys. It seated and works fine from what I can tell but still more play than the original. Probably just going to rebuild the original.

 

http://www.cvjreman.com/

 

I already ordered one just waiting to get it now. I’m still having issues after the ECGS bushing install. Pretty sure my wheel bearing shit the bed as well.

 

That sounds like an unfortunate situation everything shitting at once, or maybe this is the shotgun approach.

 

Nope. I haven't had issues but then again I rarely drive my truck now. Mostly on the weekends and fill my tank up once a month. I get to use my work truck all week so I dont put wear and tear on my personal vehicles. They've been on for probably a year or so. The OEM boots tore and drove around like that for 2 years with no issues. I did end up replacing my CVs when I swapped out the front diff for a used one, but there was nothing wrong with them. Just cheap insurance. I got the Gold lifetime warranty ones from AutoZone.