Home Improvement Today?

Depends how you use your garage IMO. if its just to store the cars...drywall isn't a bad choice. But if you work in it then I really like just having wood walls. Plywood types being the cheapest option. My dad had his garage finished with OSB and once he got posters, the pegboard, shelves, ect put up the OSB isn't really all that noticeable. A buddy did similar not to long ago but used a "sanded finish" or something from Lowes that's plywood just with a nicer finish on one side. it turned out good as well. Again he has posters and workbenches and the such. I think if you didn't plan to do any shelving or workbenches or anything then the wood option would sort of suck.

I have drywall in my current garage and hate it. Its dirty as can be since I do grinding/welding/ect in the garage. Plus if the hands are dirty and touch the wall it really stands out lol.

 

ridge board is the more typical correct? I believe that is what it is but I'll have to look.

 

Frackity frack frack. I'm installing the levers and trim on the shower plumbing and just found the tile covers the screw holes for the diverter lever/cover assembly (picture 1). I tried using a masonry bit to enlarge the opening enough to expose the screw hole but it's so close to the existing edge and it has to go through the tile, thinset and about 1/2 of mortar bed that it isn't working (pic 2). I'm not sure what else to do...

The only thing I can think of is to use silicone adhesive to glue the trim to the tile. The lever screws onto that piece (pic 3). The only load it would have to support would be horizontally - the lever works by rotating it, not pulling it out - so as long as no one yanks it...

Anyone have other options? What would you do at this point?

 

https://www.dkhardware.com/1-4-pris...MIuunvyc3I1gIVXLnACh32dgUWEAQYBCABEgK0cfD_BwE
Tile bits/ glass bits?

https://www.askthebuilder.com/drilling-ceramic-tile/

 

The second article link also has some recommendations about speed and pressure too!

 

I have bits to drill through tile but where I need to remove material is to close to the existing edge. The bit just slips into the existing opening. I thought of going further out but it would likely encroach on the area where the mounting plate mates with the tile surface.

My other thought was to rotate the plate, drill new holes in the tile and just use anchors. Picture 3 is set up for that scenario. I found the same issue when I looked at that; the new holes would be <1/8" from the existing opening. Not likely to be able to drill a hole without cracking the tile and just opening the existing hole a bit more.

I'm ready for this bathroom to be done...

 

Maybe widen the hole and epoxy anchors or screw-blinds into place?

 

I looked into widening holes in tile and found diamond bit on roto zips can work, I just don't have either of those. The masonry bit cuts with it's tip, so using the side of the bit the cut away material didn't work (tried it). At this point I'm going to use prodigious amounts of 100% silicone on the back of the plate. Worst that can happen is that it comes loose at some point and I'll just be back where I am now.

Thanks everyone for your suggestions!

 

I've used the diamond bit core drills and they work really well. If you use a paint stir stick as a guide (bit through a hole in the stir stick) they stay on track.

$9 NEIKO 00823A Diamond Hole Saw, 5 Pc Diamond Drill Bit Set, 5/32–1/2" Hollow Core, 1/4" Shank, Glass Drill Bit, Ceramics, Tile Drill Bits, Granite, Glass Cutter for Bottles, Pots, Marble

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00823A...6630582&sr=8-10&keywords=diamond+bit+hole+saw

 

How about go Amish and just use a larger rat-tail file to hog out those areas.

 

I actually considered this, but was thinking of using a piece of 1x I have laying around. Pre-drill the hole in the wood then hold it over the tile. I don't have a diamond hole bit but if the silicon option fails this may be the next step.

I do have the file but it's a lot of material to remove. I may do a trial to see how it works before I go to silicone.

Thanks!

 

Akin to the old guiding-a-larger-hole-saw-through-an-existing-hole-by-attaching-a piece-of-wood-over-the-top-of-the-hole trick

 

Put the file in the drill and try it... move it around a lot while it's spinning (slowly) - in/out side/side

 

Yeah, it could be a bit tedious, but controlled and not violent.

 

It probably doesn't have to be round... a 'triangle' might work (triangular file, two cuts w/ hacksaw blade, etc.)

 

Or get a diamond bit sawzall blade and go slow, that would probably work.

 

I didn't have any RTV handy so I used regular silicon. In 24 hours we'll see! The test will be when I attach the handle, as it threads onto the white piece of plastic behind the plate. This pulls outward against the plate (which should be screwed to the wall). If the silicon holds and I can reasonably tighten it down I'll call it a victory and move on. If it happens to fall off later when my GF is showering, I'll blame her.

 

Good luck sleeping tonight. Mr. I Can Fix Anything With Caulk.

 

"Hon..." "I'm pretty tired." "I think we can just use double stick tape to mount the rest of these kitchen cabinets.."