Bump After Stop

Yes but it was evident before just seems more pronounced now.

 

It's the way the pinion moves when the leafsprings unload.
Lift blocks place the leafsprings further from the axis of rotaion(axle) creating a longer lever; amplifying your experience.
If the slip joint is locked up, and the springs unload and that's something to be concerned about. It's putting compression forces all the way up through the drivetrain.
It could be physically binding or simply overlubed. Relief hole may or may not fix it.

 

Yup one of my many problems I had on my Taco.. employees said it’s within normal parameters. Bullfuckingshit.

So I got this instead..:



And I am much much happier!

 

Would tightening the U-bolts help? I only added 1” block. I had the bump before too. Why is it concerning?

 

our 4runner did that sometimes. I think it was the torque converter. It never gave out on us but I noticed it on deceleration more than acceleration.

 

Found this on another forum from Toyota nation. Does this make sense or anyone know how to do this?

“The splined slip yoke of the drive shaft is sticking due to lack of grease. This is a very common problem with these trucks. For some reason, they are not putting enought grease on at the factory. The bad thing is that there is no zerk fitting for it. You have to remove the drive shaft then take it apart at the black boot cover. Not really that hard to do, just time consuming. Toyota will tell you that is a normal condition. Ive been through it all with the dealer on this, so I just fixed it myself. A light coating of quality grease will fix the problem. Be sure not to break the silver clips that hold the boot in place, because the dealer will not sell just that part. Hope that helps.”

 

It's under the plastic boot.
You have to drop the shaft and take it apart. Those silver clips are pinched on; don't see how they are reusable.
Make sure you mark everything before taking it apart, boot clips included. The clips are heavier on one side and is enough to throw balance off if not put back on like it came off.

$17 Ford XG8 Genuine Ford Fluid XG-8 PTFE Lubricant - 3 oz.

Ford XG8 is recommended for this application.
Again, it could very well be overlubed...this is a common thing with guys who overgrease their greaseable slip joints/yokes.
IIRC, the spec is 0.2 oz of grease.

 

I felt this sensation before and reported it to my service writer at the dealership during my 10k service very recently. According to him there was an transmission software update available. Haven't felt it since but I had only felt it a couple of times in a year of having it to begin with

 

I've had this happen one time in the almost year I have had the truck. After being at a dead stop for 10-20 seconds at a red light it clunked so bad I swore the person behind me hit me. No way its axle wrap or fuel surging in my case.

 

I’m gonna take to someone to do this. Don’t trust myself. Someone that said transmission software update. How do they do that?

 

Through the OBD port via Techstream at the dealer. Some dealers are reluctant, unless the transmission has a symptom listed in the TSB.
If you're going to have a driveshaft shop do it, I'd have them check the u-joints, run-out and balance while it's out.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/t-sb-0077-16-rev-1.457782/

 

Do you love this would be an expensive or costly repair or attempt to repair?

 

I couldn't imagine it taking more than a couple hours of labor to drop, drill and relube. Now, if they find something else...
If it started getting up in the $300 dollar range, I'd just get a new one piece double card driveshaft.

 

Should I just take out my 1” blocks and put shims? Would that take away slight shudder and possibly help the bump.

 

Or 3 degree axle shims? That would help?

 

Only one way to find out.
Why guess at the degree? Measure your working angles.

 

I have. About .4 difference between front and back

 

???
There's 3 u-joints; what are the working angles at each?

 

My bad I was talking about the angles on the 2 sections of the shaft.

If I just put a new shaft or a new Carrier bearing. I really just want to correct the bump after stop. It’s very obvious and afraid it’s going to damage something. How exactly could I try to drill a hole and relieve pressure?

 

See post #38 for the diagram I posted. I circled the part that you would drill; as close to the u-joint as possible.
If it were me, I'd still drop the shaft and disassemble the slip joint, just so I could check for burrs or metal shaving from having drilled a hole in it. Don't know how that would affect balance though.