JBA Offroad Upper Control Arms And Suspension MEGA Thread BS thread

Excuse my ignorance and it probably has been asked before but besides the gusseting is there any difference between the standard and the HD?

 

Look at the two rear alignment cams. Is the north pole of the eccentric facing all the way inboard? If so, there is no more adjustment left in your caster. Now take a look at all the alignment cam ears, are any of them bent out? If so, bend them back in and they may be able to squeeze some more caster in.

 

So the tech said he purposefully set the castor hign on the right and low on the left to compensate for road pull to the right.... even though now it pulls left. He said if he set both sides at 3 it would pull to the right.. I had to make an appointment to go back tomorrow he said he would fix it and I could stand there with him, but wtf im confused. I thought i could just get both sides close to the same around 3

 

Tel him 3 castor and 0 camber and zero toe. If he can't get three then as high as the can tabs will give him. I am at 2.6 castor 0/0. The road down then ng is bullshit. Most alignment shops only do toe and go. Make sure your steering wheel is also straight. That means he will have to adjust your tie rods as well. Make sure he torques the can boots down as well. If they are not torqued it will go out of alignment after a few potholes.

 

On Marlin's website he has this posted.

Please Note: 285/75R16 (32.8" x 11") and 255/85R16 (33.1" x 10.0") and larger tires need aftermarket wheels with 4.5" back space.

My new wheels are 17x8.5 backspace 4.75 offset 0. I plan on getting 285/70/17 falken wildpeaks. lifted 2.5" in the front think i'll rub on the control arm? Technically a backspace of 4.75 and offset zero equates to a backspace of 4.5 offset +6.135. any ideas?

 

4.75 back space is just that. Having a zero offset doesn't change that. I have 285/75/16 tires on 16x8 rims with 4.5" back space, and I rub the uppers at full turn. A wider rim may compensate for that such as a 9" .

 

Thanks for the chart that helps. Also spoke to Marlin he thinks they might fit because of the wheel width

 

Joined the club today!

 

Looks nice,,, what is the rest of your setup.

 

OME 90000+886 coils. Those were getting installed as well to compensate for the extra weight up front.

 

So i put 17x8.5 0 offset, 4.75 backspacing on my truck with 285/70/17 tires. I was concerned it was going to rub because of the warning on Marlin's site. Glad to say they do not rub on the UCA and i just got a new alignment pushing my caster up to 4.63 and 4.24. no more rubbing on the cab and drives smooth on the freeway

 

Falken wildpeaks P rated

 

I have my lift with JBA's for a little over a month now. Toytec Boss coils with Dakar leaf pack, 275/70/17 tires which are like 32x11, fairly aggressive but not like KO2/Duratrak, wheels are 4.30 backspace. I'm getting some minor rub on the cab mount when turning at almost full lock. Should I have the shop increase the caster? What's the max caster I can go with the JBA's? I'm at 3.3 right now. I'm trying to not have to do CMC, but I might have to for off-road flex. If I hit a good bump while turning off-road I have a feeling it's going to hit HARD.

Secondly,
The truck drives fairly straight if I'm on a completely level road or drive in the middle, but if I'm on the left or right side it will pull to that side. Obviously most roads are designed to slope for drainage but I don't recall the truck pulling that hard before the lift and tires. Is the slope just exacerbated by the larger tires making it affect the ability to hold a straight line with less hand effort? Most roads will crown at the top and slope to either side so most of the time it will pull right. Again, if the road is pretty level then she'll track pretty straight so I feel the alignment should be good, but with an ever so slight slope, I feel I'm fighting a bit to keep her straight. What do ya'll recommend for the rub and pulling right?

 

So found out that my cam tabs are pretty much flat thanks to the firestone tech that did not tighten the cam bolt.

People that have had this issue are you guys just having it bent back and have it spot welded in the back to reinforce or are you guys having a kit like the total chaos one installed??

Also another question... from my understanding the cam tabs only assist with getting the alignment adjusted. once it is adjusted and torqued to spec even though those tabs are bent does it just make it easier for the alignment to be thrown off or do i really need those tabs repaired in the long run?

 

You need em, get the TC tabs. Where you live?

 

I live in Las vegas

 

Plenty of automotive welders in Vegas.

 

Im in need of some assistance from you all... Ive had the high castor standard duty arms installed for about three weeks and they are making a lot of noise over bumps and turning. When they were first installed, the through bolt was torqued to 85ftlbs. After 100 miles of driving I began to hear a lot of clunking so I took the truck back to the shop and they found that there was lateral play along the bolt (as if the space between the arms was too wide). I called JBA and was told that "out of the 400+ units sold, you are one of the few to have issues. Torque them to factory spec." The shop checked torque and it was still at 85, so they torqued to 125, which eliminated the play. After over 2k miles, im getting more noises. I check the arms today and now the inner bushings have slipped about a 1/4 inch out of the arms onto the flanges of the attachment point.

Anyone have any idea what the issue could be?