Howzit everyone

Lemme catch up... Be right there

 

I don't follow their recommendations... I use sae 30w engine oil from a dripper bottle I "fashioned" together lol

 

Love the radio volume mod to take care of little ticks, clicks, and rattles I can't find

 

Here's how you can test your truck. Set the front on stands and pull the wheels. Disconnect the spindle from the UCA whether ball joint or uniball. Then without loosening the UCA pivot bolt, rotate the UCA around the axis of rotation, and see if it squeaks. Check your bushings for deforming. If they are greased without the proper rifled grease passages, it creates a hydraulic cylinder in the bushing eye and pushes the bushings outward from the grease fitting. This cannot be fixed, only replaced. If you have squeak when rotating, or deformed between the eye and the washer, you need to replace with new poly or upgrade to delrin 150 HP. Poly is better than rubber oem, but delrin 150 HP is superior to poly in that it does not defect, at all, and will not squeak. It is not sensitive to how it is greased like poly are.

 

If you plan to stick with mid travel, you don't need arms. The "mid" travel arms are pretty close to oem geometry I think to negate their use, unless you balling put of control and need something to spend money on lol. The stock LCA are sufficient for mid travel if you get UCA to allow that kind of droop. Main thing to check for is that at full droop, the coilovers are what limit droop and not the LCA ball joint. If the joint maxes before the coilovers is fully extended, you'll need a new LCA ball joint in short time. Rec rebush the LCA and check full droop height with coil over in and out, compare the two. If the droop measurement is more with the coilovers removed, you're good to go