Manual transmission Fan Club and BS thread (All Generations Welcome)

Are you sure about that XC60? The T5 were typically HO Turbo inline 5s. The T6 was the V6.

It kinda sucked living with the FWD volvos because they were all designed for that I5 and had a super shitty turning radius. We had a v70 T5 MT for about 10yrs. The wrong Swede went out of biz, IMHO.

 

If it's done right engine braking won't cause a clutch wear issue. Engine compression is what is slowing you down. The clutch isn't slipping. You would get way more clutch wear starting for a stop then from engine braking.

 

I think it is fair to say that there isn't just one 'proper' method to driving MTs whether it is your personal car or you're getting paid to do it. If you're getting 150k plus out of the OE parts and not purposefully trying to destroy it, then you're doing it right.

As always, there are times when abuse is necessary (trying not to mention our stupid tall reverse gear).

 

I'm either engine braking or coasting in neutral when not maintaining speed or accelerating. There is absolutely no clutch wear if you are in gear and slowing down. If you are dropping gear and jerking forward as you let out the clutch you are doing it wrong.

There is nothing gained by trying to be in the correct gear with the clutch engaged all the time. If I'm in neutral I'm ready to go the needed gear just as fast or faster than being in a gear that suddenly isn't appropriate if something change.
If engine braking is slowing me down too fast in the highest gear I'm in neutral to move forward without keeping on the gas to keep moving.

I'm saving gas and brakes and clutch.

I laugh at people that pass me only to slam on their brakes at the red light they apparently can't see down the road. Simply getting your 4000 lb vehicle moving from a stop light is the hardest thing on your clutch. If saving your clutch is paramount avoid coming to a complete stop racing to the red.

If you are coming down long declines and aren't using engine braking by dropping down a gear or 2 to help you slow down you are wasting you brakes for no reason as once engaged the clutch has zero wear.

Funniest thing is people that heel and toe a truck.

 

You are correct, sir. That would be a T6 we had. Is this the grammar Nazi version of automotive? Lol. That's what I get for drinking on a school night.

 

Lol. Heel and toe is not a car vs truck thing. It's a normal clutch vs a crispy clutch thing.

 

0.o didn't mean to quote the bag head. Meant the quote of that.

 

When I picked up my 2010 AC Tacoma it had just had the clutch replaced under warranty and had all the clutch pedal TSB's done to it, the clutch feels good and is quiet, and yet the plastic pedal and plastic master cylinder were absolutely crap!

You could see the plastic MC swell when pressure was put on it, the piston would stick to the floor when cold, the ball would slip out if the pedal body, the coil spring would throw the the pedal itself back into my foot. Scared the hell out of me the first time it happened.

The plastic pedal body itself was a wibbly wobbly mess, the pivot point was wore out, the clutch pedal body was just HUGE and my boots would frequently fight to occupy the same space, there was no room to get your keep behind the pedal during long road trips on cruise control, the plastic was kind of creeky flexed too much for my liking. It just didn't feel solid, and the clutch throw was so long and tall, too much friction point between released and clamped.

Worst clutch pedal of anything I have ever driven. So I set out to correct that.

First fix, good clean DOT4 fluid helped a lot. I used TYP200 fluid but it wasn't enough.

The MC would still stick to the floor when really cold and pop up unexpectedly, stupid plastic MC...

So I installed a Beck Arnley alloy MC, I can't recommend this change enough, if you still have a plastic MC change it now! Completely redefined the gen 2 taco clutch experience for me.

Still unsatisfied with the level arm itself however, I did some digging...

As it turns out, fortunately for me, the FJ cruiser uses a steel clutch pedal with the same mounting pin as the Tacoma, so I purchased one from the dealer and a few different iterations of cutting welding, readjusting, bending etc I now have a very light throw, low pedal, with short travel, a linear spring for tension, and it feels SOLID! No lateral play, it's smaller in body and has plenty of room for me to get my feet behind or drive with my boots on. Much less stress on my knee and ankle as well. I can actually use the clutch and keep my heel on the floor the whole time lile the brake pedal.


Out with the old in with the new.


Unmodded side by side:


Ran into my first snag, it seems the FJ uses a different or in the least a differently angled MC, having just upgraded to an alloy MC and given how much a PITA removing the clutch pedal brackets and MC was I decided I would make it work.

You can see here I added the hump on the bottom to get the MC to hook up to the pedal with a clevis and the right height and angle.


I removed the spring horn from the pedal and had to modify the clutch down and up switch pad poles to line up, again given the FJ sits more vertically vs the Tacoma's more reclined driver possition it seems the pedal assemblys are angled differently. The FJ pedal seem like it's more of a step down onto it vs the Tacoma is more of a push back toward the firewall.

I'd like to see and drive a 6speed FJ to confirm this.



I drove it in the above configuration for some time but decided the pedal rode too high and too far left, so I finally had the opportunity this past weekend to take it out and fine tune it to my liking resulting in the below:



Couldn't be happier with how it feels now!

 

Ditto.

 

How much does a spring booster or pedal commander help with this, I've kind of learned how to work the quirk or throttle lag but I'd certainly prefer a 1 for 1 or input to result with the pedal and throttle body.

 

If it's a manual, it can be heel toed, within reason. For me, the Tacoma's pedals are not set up well. Over 3 inches of space between gas and brake pedals, with an extremely short gas pedal. So, I've been trying to relearn a new method: heel on brake, toe to blip the gas. I've been finding it hard to relearn afters years of doing it the classic way.

 

I've not had a problem heel toeing my 2010 Taco, I use the tip of my toes on the brake and then turn my foot at a 45° inward angle if you will and kind of use the side of my foot on the side of the gas, I find it not too difficult as the throttle by wire pedal has almost no resistance.

I did heel toe my 1st gen the way you describe, though it was kind of 50/50 between "traditional" and "goofy".

 

I think I belong in this thread... well as much as I can belong on TacomaWorld...

 

Is your second gen a 22re or a 3vz?

 

3VZE. The factory 22RE ones are like unicorns. Only ever seen one, and it was in the junkyard of all places

 

Damn, I almost bought a 22re one, gray 4x4 manual a while back, ended up in a 3rd gen, always did like the 2nd's "tailgate" and square body. Now I got my taco though, needed a pick-up.

 

Oh that would've been sweet. Was the 3rd gen a 3.4 manual?

Yeah the tailgate is definitely one of my favorite parts. Everytime I open the hatch on the 96 I just roll my eyes. Anytime there's something loose in the back it always falls out. Tailgate ftw

 

Yup! 5vz/r150f had a marlin crawler 1200lb HD clutch in it, but a elocker in it and a sport hood, sold it for was less than I wanted to.

 

No Nazis, just curious since we owned a T5. It wasn't nearly as good as the saab 2.0l turbo. If the power in that car was going to the proper wheels, we would still have it.