dirty deeds' deeds, done dirt CHEAP! and dirty vibes

Get gears first. Your truck and wallet will thank you.

 

I still want a locker too. Will go ECGS core swap for that.
Highly doubt my tax return will cover new gears AND locker since I'd have to get a geared front diff along with the locked and regeared rear diff.

So much money!

 

Regearing alone is gonna be like $2k unless you get it done at DYF.

It's really the reason I haven't regeared yet and thats waaaaaay down the list. When I get dirtyfives I'll pony up tho

 

Everett already told me that he doesn't and won't set gears. Not something he would even do to his own truck.
And I don't trust a single redneck hillbilly in a 200 mile radius to do it on mine either!

How ECGS works; buy the regeared front and rear with core charges added to them. Install them and then return the stock ones, then the core charge is credited back to you. It will cost more, but it's piece of mine.

 

I did my own gears. Not interested in doing any more. Will pay to have the front locker installed. Job sux.

 

Install of the housings isn't what I'm afraid of. They're just heavy.
I'm concerned with proper timing and backlash and all that junk.

 

i refuse to fuck with gears. Will get from ecgs when i go that route

 

Zachkly

 

Exactly what I'm talking about. I've set up hundreds of ring & pinions.

 

You wear dresses.

 

It's called a bloody kilt you fockin idiet

 

buy the turbo mani then buy this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/T25-T2-to-...ash=item2cc58a2b88:g:PPwAAOSwf-xZpmaF&vxp=mtr
then this
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnt-11017/overview/
and this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Univer...ash=item43f060ef32:g:-2cAAOSw9fRZ3Gaj&vxp=mtr
then this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Racing-Spo...ash=item3d1dbf21b9:g:bAoAAOSwUKxYdLuO&vxp=mtr and you can either get a universal oil feed/return line kit for $50 or so or pick one up local that is made to fit your set up for about the same I'm sure and you wont have a crap load of left over parts
then this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-Racing-Sport-Red-38mm-Wastegate-WG38-35MM-Ultra-Gate-7-11-14-Psi-Spring/151376059948?_trkparms=aid=555017&algo=PL.CASSINI&ao=1&asc=41376&meid=311a42fd9f0949a4a65318dc936b594e&pid=100754&rk=1&rkt=1&&_trksid=p2045573.c100754.m4842
then this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-...ash=item51e3a2a2c4:g:~ykAAOSwfCZZ29ug&vxp=mtr
save $100 or so for some 2"-2.5" silicone reducers and 2.5"-3" reducers and some 3" piping to get you to your throttle body and that should put all of your hardware in your hands for ~$1500 (you will also need a MAF sensor adaptor or to make one/have one made into some of that 3" stuff. then ask some of the 2tr turbo guys what they are doing for fuel upgrades. Urd has pump kits for $160 ish and injectors with plug and play harness are like $70 a pop so that will bring you up to ~$1900 if you go that route and you may have to modify the down pipe that comes with that mani since it is made for a t28 turbo and you prolly wanna run a t3; if you can get someone else to go in on the mapecu3 from urd, u can get it for $500 and that will get you a great start on everything for ~$2500 or so (put a couple hundy back cuz something isn't gonna work just like you thought it would)


there is a couple of 1st gen 4 bangers who have discovered that the stock ecu will correct 440cc injectors on its own with no tuning (stockers are 295cc I think, well I no they are for me and I feel that is pretty standard across the board) no one has tested this on 2nd gen anything tho so it may or may not work but if it did that could save you some wiring and money

you might can make your current exhaust work too with some fabracative magic (a welder and cutter of some sort)

 

whoa!

 

Is there a way to bolt on the hardware for turbo, intercooler, mani, etc. without the ecu and new injectors?

I guess what I'm really wanting is the most simple install possible and only adding intercooler, piping, and turbo. Obviously with a little exhaust tweak.

 

A gas powered leaf blower would be better than that!

 

yes you can do all the hardware before the fuel upgrade, just make sure not to get into boost while it is in that condition. I drove around for a month before I hooked up my piggyback that way, and another month or more on stock fuel injectors with the piggy back hooked up. there are several live "save points" that you can work hard to get to and then have your truck back to working for a while before you go any further. it would be most ideal if you had access to a secondary DD tho, because there are also gonna be things that may take more than a weekend to knock out (maybe not as bad as mine since there is a turbo mani available to you, and my exhaust was all custom pieced together by me and a couple other guys)

 

So what you just told me was there isn't a way to just run the turbo without new injectors and ecu.

 

I'm telling you that you can run it up to 0psi safely, anything past that is not recommended at best I would wager