ARB CKMTA12 Install

@OdiN1701 Thanks for the write up, Ill be doing the same install myself.

Do you have a link for that T that you used on the compressor. Is the part that goes into the compressor a male 1/4 NPT as well or some other thread?

 

The compressor is 1/4 NPT Female.

This is the tee I used:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-NPT-Brass-T-Fitting-F-1-4-in/50126528

 

Sorry for the Necro, What relay did you use for this ?

Thanks a bunch!

 

Old thread, but damn, it's exactly what I've been looking for.

 

Just a regular old relay like this:

ttps://

$16 EPAuto 30/40 AMP Relay Harness Spdt 12V, 5-PIN SPDT Bosch Style - 5 Pack

www.amazon.com/Pack-EPAuto-Relay-Harness-Bosch/dp/B017VDI0GY

 

Thank you

 

for the record, you dont need to use any relays.
there are relays in the Compressor. you will see them once you take the cover off.

If there was 8 Amps going through the switch wire that came through your firewall why would ARB make it so thin?

just pointing it out for others to be helpful!

 

I'm just going by what is documented, and they never responded to my inquiry....so I'm doing it this way.

 

i called them

 

They didn't respond, so

 

An interesting bit of information.

My wife's car had a flat tire this morning so I fired up the compressor to air it up so she could at least drive it to get new tires (the tread was pretty low let alone the leak).

Anyway I turned on the compressor and kept hearing a loud sound - it was the safety valve blowing out over and over. Well it was also -8° this morning so apparently when it's that cold the regulator or whatever shuts off the compressor does not like to work. I don't know what exactly would have happened without the safety valve, but at least it did it's job and didn't let the compressor over-pressurize itself. Once it was warmed up after filling the tire it stopped when it was supposed to.

 

sweet, install. I want one of these. But I'm concerned about fitment in this location with a dual battery setup in the future.

 

Yeah I'm not sure I'll run dual but they also make side-by-side mounts for the driver side battery location.

 

This is old, but any con to just using add a fuse for the 8amp line needed for the switch?

 

Where? Supposedly it isn't 8A, but ARB never responded to my questions so I don't know what it is. I just don't like running high amp wire through the firewall.

 

In their instructions, "The desired outlet should supply positive 12VDC for a CKMAT12 OR 24VDC for a CKMAT24, be fused at a minimum of 8 amps, and be live only when the vehicle ignition key is in either the 'ACC' position or in the 'ON' position."

This is where I'm getting the idea of just doing add-a-fuse to the switch. I'll try to give them a call as this is where I'm kinda stuck. Doing the driver side bed mounting.

 

Well you need the inline fuses for the main power. Then you need the power to switch it on. Another poster said there were relays in the compressor itself, but I ran off another relay to flip on power. It may not have been needed. You could probably just do the add-a-fuse as from other replies it doesn't sound like the power switch wire really is high amp - I'm not sure why they state to fuse it at a minimum of 8A.

 

Yeah i saw that comment a few post up. Thanks!

 

For bedside installation, where are folks attaching the ground wire under the bed?