Closed (for now): Group Buy: IEDLS Polyurethane Carrier Bearing

Has anyone started a page that consolidates all the install tips sans group buy chatter? I see the OP and also the post by @MonkeyProof.

 

So any word on when this GB or code is going active again? I need to get mine replaced ASAP and I did a Dakar install not too long ago so I'm pretty sure my angles are all off. I could kill 3 birds with one stone with this.

1) new CB
2) fixed driveshaft angles
3) new u-joints

 

https://www.torquenews.com/1083/new-toyota-tacoma-warranty-extension-driveshaft-vibrations-2005-2011

 

So I finished up the install of the new IEDS bearing and U-joints last night. Assembly went together well and I used the mounting design @MonkeyProof came up with in an attempt to create the proper drive line angles.

It was an attempt though, I now have a vibration at 15-20 mph and 35 +\- a few mph that fades away and a slight hum at anything over. The way I understand it, I need to add spacing for the carrier bearing to get better angles.

I measured the driveline the best I could using the technique wrote up in a driveline vibration thread and found my angle to be 1.9 degrees at the flange for the transfer case and 8.3 degrees at the differential. So a difference of 6.4 degrees. I believe these are supposed to be < 3 degrees but wanted to confirm?

When I started this project, I had 2.2 degrees at the transfer case flange and 7.7 degrees at the diff. I found this interesting due to starting the spacer at 1 3/8” as @MonkeyProof did expecting this to be a decent starting point. I added a 1/8” washer after in an attempt to fix the vibration but ran out of threads for the bolt.

 

Same experience here. I have the 15-20 vibe and have a slight vibe/hum at 60-65 ish. Been playing around with spacers all the way from 1-3/8” to 2-1/4”. Finally settled on 1-7/8 for now. But still have the vibes I mentioned about. I have the spicer carrier bearing same as the IEDS just not poly material. Don’t feel that’s the cause of my vibes. I have the newer 96r OME Dakar packs with no axle shims.
The CB feels way more stout but getting the correct angles seems to be a PITA.

 

Thanks for your input. I added more shims last night in hopes to resolve the issue with failure. The additional seems did make a significant difference, but did not fix it. I need to do a measurement to see what my spacing is at as of last night.

I have the 047 Dakar’s but I also have not done the axle shims yet. I wonder if this is the root of our problem? I know my pinion angle is not correct.

 

Are you guys removing this dust seal??

I left mine off and now I’m wondering...

 

What CB did you go with?

 

It’s the spicer joint. It’s a fully sealed bearing and the rubber is much stiffer than OEM.
I think I could have left that dust seal but too late now.

Everything is pressed on and spins good and the yoke nut went al the way down.

 

I have a Iedls bearing for sale
Pm me if interested
Never installed


SOLD

 

Awe, to late. I was trying to set up a group buy, but they wanted me to purchase 40 units. Sorry guys, can't foot the bill. Will be purchasing a unit at sometime. Maybe we can start a list so they know the demand for there product is good.

1) @Waited many moons

 

Crap, I still have mine in my garage collecting dust...

 

Me too. I’ll install it when I install the TRD Pro lift that is next to it collecting dust.

 

Seems like alot of people bought this and forgot about it.

 

I for one did not.

 

Not a bolt on mod, takes some adjustment to get right, mine is still on my work bench

 

Definitely agree. I was replacing the u joint so I decided to di it while I had it out. I still as of yet need to narrow down the height to get all angles right.

 

Forgive if I sound stupid, but... will this special carrier bearing be any benefit my 2006 AC 5-lug 2.7 2WD? I do plan to replace the CB in the next few years and I don't know if this bearing will be any better than a standard replacement. Is it overkill, not necessary, or not even going to fit? Is this special CB only for 4wd models? Currently I have 145,000 miles and no issues, just planning maintenance. Thanks

 

If yours lasted 145k a standard replacement is likely a better option. There will be less hoops to jump through. The primary reason for this version is it is made of a heavier duty material that is less supseptible to the vibes associated with changing driveline angles when lifting.

 

I have no lift so the rest is moot. Thank you for the excellent response.