Water Bypass Pipe No.1

Bump for this thread. Can you see the leak at the other end if there is one (near driver end)?

 

Sometimes. The plastic pipe has a nipple that extends up from the bypass pipe to heat the throttle body. If it fails they usually leak with spectacular fashion. The block connection usually seeps.

 

I had this same problem a couple of months ago. My 2005 Tacoma 4cyl is the only car I have, so it's what I use for my commute. My experience with working with cars is minimal. I can do my own servicing but that's pretty much it.

I was driving to a friends house one night when it started overheating. I pulled over, checked under the hood, let it cool down. I did notice the leak and the pipe was rotted away just like the original poster's problem. I called a tow truck and got home safe. I couldn't be without a car long, so desperately I searched the internet for answers and saw this thread and saw the metal bypass pipe upgrade, however I needed a quick fix so I opted for the OEM part from eBay with quickest delivery and so I wouldn't have to remove the intake manifold due to the OEM plastic part being more flexible than the metal one. When I received the part I had the old one taken out already. I did not remove anything but the pipe and where it is clamped to the two other hoses at the rear of the engine bay by accessing it just behind the left tire (it was a pain getting it out and putting the new one in, which I don't recommend for reasons described later). I routed the pipe from the back, under side (behind the left front tire), it took me about 45 minutes to wiggle it through to the forward end where it connects. Once it was connected it was all set. Installing the pipe this way also proved difficult when reconnecting the two hoses at the rear, and the clamp. I managed to half-way connect them to where they didn't leak and where it gave me a chance to take it to the dealer for the following reasons. 1. So they could ensure all hoses and clamps were connected properly and 2, refill the coolant with the correct type (I had used the wrong type coolant once I finished the job, should have ordered it along with the pipe but it didn't occur to me that toyota has their own coolant type. Once out of the dealer the car ran fine for about 2 months. I went home on leave (just under a 1k mile drive) and I started seeing a leak again anytime I had driven the car and stopped for the night, it always leaked more when the car was parked after a drive. Back at my home-town during leave, my brother helped me inspect (he's a mechanic). We took off the intake manifold, cleaned all mating surfaces and inspected the seal, which looked in good condition, still, we cleaned the o-ring in the pipe and added some sealant to it as well (this was the reason I recommend not replacing the pipe the way I did, just take off the intake manifold, it is way easier, trust me. It takes about the same amount of time and give you better working room as well as unrestricted access to the rear two hoses that connect to the pipe). When I had the intake manifold off, I also noticed that all the dealer mechanic did on my car was replace the coolant, which is why the following problem I will try and attempt to fix myself; on my drive back home I noticed the leak was still there (fuck me). Before reinstalling everything we reconnected everything the dealer mechanic hadn't properly.

This is where I would like to ask for some guidance. I can drive the car without any issues other than the leak. But I still need to figure out and fix the problem. After a close look, I realized the leak wasn't coming from the pipe connection, but just under it. I can't tell how it is connected (whether it is a gasket that needs replaced, a crack in the engine block (god forbid), thermostat housing, etc. I can't tell what part must be replaced so the leak can stop. I do not want to take apart everything unless I know what I need to replace, again it's my only car and I need to be able to drive to work and back.

In the pictures I will include I point to where the new leak is coming from.

I will in the near future order the metal pipe and replace it, but priority right now is on this new leak. Any suggestions on what could be causing this leak are appreciated!

 

Did you replace the gasket and torque the bolts where the coolant pipe attached there?

 

Being a shadetree DIY'er, I'm not sure I want to DIY this, but if I did this video would be a great help:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etARn10c19Q

 

Anyone that has done this, it almost looks like you could replace it by removing the starter. Or does the intake manifold wrap around the coolant pipe? Mines not leaking yet but I don't want to give it a chance to.

 

Intake wraps around pipe. Don't think it's possible without the intake off, or at least taking the intake off would be quicker in the long run.

 

Just watched the video - how much time would this job take - any DIY work in your driveway guys do this ?? Thanks for any reply.

 

The person to ask is toyodajeff, he answered a question I had and has already completed the replacement of the coolant bypass pipe. I looked at mine and it looks good for being over 11 years old, but I would still feel better having a stainless steel pipe rather than a plastic one.

 

I guess it took me about 5-6 hours. I also cleaned my throttle bottle since I had it off and had to go back to the dealer to get the right gasket. If everything goes your way when you do it, you could probably do it in 2 or 3.

 

Thanks guys for the replies - I consider myself pretty handy and do all my maintenance except tires. The video was 45 mins speeded up with full time mechanics - toyodajeff U must have a lot of skill if U can do it in 2 or 3 hours - Markcal mine is a 08 so 10 yrs - I asked about it when my frame was replace and they said they hadn't had 2 do any - I now wish I had insisted.

 

If they removed the motor, it would be minimal labor so basically paying for the part. I would like to do it myself, thinking about all the tools I can buy with the money saved.

 

That's Y I'm kicking myself 4 not saying just do it - I don't know Y they didn't want to - I figured it would be the ideal time 2 do it.

 

Forget Taco's. I love that boat!!! I've always loved boats! Godspeed with your spare parts for the Taco. It's just that where I live a breakdown could possibly be life threatening if it happens at the wrong time in the worng place.. For what it's worth I now live in Wyoming. Where I explore sometimes if I have a breakdown I may have to walk at least 5+ miles and maybe far more just to get a cell signal. In sub zero weather. Not counting wind chill for the 40+ mph winds.

I believe I have said this before on this thread but I "still" can't believe Toyota would make a part this hard to get to and so important to the reliability of the engine out of plastic.

Metal of some sort has always worked far better than plastic and I relish the day dumb phones as well as laptops are encased in the only material that works which is some sort of metal. Preferably stainless steel.

Yeah, I know I'm dreaming.

 

I replaced mine today. You definitely have to remove the intake manifold. I was able to unbolt the manifold and pull it away just enough to get the pipe out. I recommend replacing the intake gasket and throttle body gaskets while your in there. Mine is a 2010 with 90k miles and they were definitely squished down, not sure they would seal great. The rear PCV hose that goes from the hard line to the rear of the intake manifold was the hardest part of the whole job. I recommend replacing it while your in there, mine was cracked but I didn't have a new one. I'll post pictures later.

I ordered my parts from @gunny1005 way better price than the local dealer and fast shipping. He also helped confirm the new gasket in the picture below.

Toyota updated the throttle body gasket, mine had a screen on it the new one didn't.

 

Thanks for the information, must feel good to have done the replacement yourself and not worry about it down the road.

 

Thanks, it's totally in the realm of a DIY driveway job. Just gotta take your time, the biggest risk would be dropping something into one of the intake ports.

 

For myself, leaving extra time makes a tough DIY job much easier and less stressful.

 

I just ordered this bypass this weekend and found out there are two numbers to choose from
@toddwarren2 pointed out there was another number that was missing the mounting tab, but that missing tab refers to the one in the middle of the tube that attaches to nothing (intended for the older 2.7). Both part numbers have the mount on the firewall end. The correct number for my truck (2008) is

$73 16268-75130 Engine Coolant Bypass Hose

16268-75130. It is steel just like Todds, but has a thicker flange and no mounting tab in the center of the tube. Because of the thicker flange you will also need to order 16258-90119-A0183 x2, this is the slightly longer bolts for the thicker flange. The gasket number remains the same.

To save reading, here is what you need.
16268-75130
16258-75021
16258-90119-A0183 x2

You can see the design difference I am speaking of below. The extra tab on the 75110 and the thicker flange on the 75130

 

My truck had studs, and they were plenty long. I wonder if there were a few differences between the years in this regard.