Bigger oil filter better?

I'm supposed to check my oil level?

 

All filters have an anti drain back valve sir. What PSI spec does your filter have for pressure relief vs. the OE spec?
The videos of people cutting filters open are meaningless. The critical design elements for any filter (compared to an OE sample... not an OES sample)

If a design engineer wanted to replicate an OE performance or spec he/she would perform ISO4548-12 testing (multi pass), SAE HS806 element collapse testing, a bubble test, anti drain back test, relief valve differential pressure testing and gasket material testing. All of these tests need to be performed against a spec or sample.

Manufactures do these tests however they also decide what specification to follow and what deviations from that sample they are willing to follow in their design spec. I have tried to stay away from how I promote in this forum as it relates to oil brands and filter brands. I personally would stay away from the substitutions of larger can size because I would be worried about controlling the relief valve pressure as its probably the second most important design element of any filter in my opinion

 

It's a very important fuel for your muffler bearings, the reservoir sits right next to your blinker fluid.

 

For nearly 7 years I've been wondering what those were for!

 

Strongly advice stay away from fram cunsumers digest did a folder comparision with many different filters in taxies in ny fram failed wix and puralator were some of the top filters. Its not just the size its the filter material that matters the most. On my 93 changed oil regularly at 5k running mobile 1. 360k oil sample just starting to show bronze n copper. Have not had the 08 long enough to change the oil. Thinking upon doing a bearing roll on the 93.

 

Repost as this is all you need to know.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/toyota-oil-filter-made-in-thailand-vs-the-competition.123608/

 

I mean to see how much oil is on the dip stick, while the engine is running. Since quite a bit goes into circulation (obviously) but that amount in circulation means there is less in the oil pan.

If I remember correctly, the manuals past used to state that the proper level was half way between the bottom and the top dots. Being in the middle of the stick's gauge meant that there was barely a drop on thw bottom of the stick, while the engine was running.

This in turn led to the demise of many an otherwise healthy engine. While doing something as simple as turning on a freeway clover.

It is good to know how much is on the stick, while the engine is running.

 

I keep my truck a qt low. weight reduction, faster in the 1/4 mile

 

So to respectfully disagree, this would apply to adding an oil cooler to your setup right? Or, if you where to add a bypass filtration system with dual elements. I have never seen a reflection in oil pressure drop as I always have run oil pressure gauges in my rigs or cars. For example, In my '11 M3 that is set up for track duty I run a bypass system in addition to a larger oil cooler for the S65 motor. If oil pressure was degraded by adding these, you would smoke some internals. Not to mention the VANOS system would be affected as it is driven by the oil pressure. As much track time as I have put on this setup on the OEM pump, never had an issue. Our 4.0L motors never hit RPM's as high as that motor. I run a Blackstone analysis after every change on both rigs. Squeaky clean results and as long as there is no leaks in the pressure system you have nothing to worry about. Especially if you are running a synthetic membrane in comparison to a cotton element in the filter. Far better flow properties than Cotton.

 

I use the drainage method. I drain the oil from the pan, measure what comes out, then pour it back in. It takes a bit more time, but the accuracy is so worth it.

 

Have one of these Fram's on mine now.......

better ? don't know......

 

I like that "grip" on the top of that filter! That's slick! No pun intended.

 

I would stay away from mmo. It actually thins out the oil since it’s solvent based. Before an oil change it’s ok...not during the oci.

 

Off and most of the time I’ll wait 5 hours.

 

Very well said...

 

The BMW S65 engine is one of the best ever produced and is pretty much legendary... As far as engine design, it's very different than the average engine because it's a wet-sump lubrication system, like many high end race engines.

 

I'm not meaning to turn this into a fight, simply defending my standpoint.



Here's what you were asking for:

No not every oil filter has an ADBV most do nowadays but not all. Fram I'm looking at you...

OE spec is 8-11psi and the filter I use

$14 51515xp XP Oil Filter

51515xp is also 8-11psi this filter is an optional size for the 71-96 landcruisers recommend for off road or heavy duty and came standard on LC's with front and rear lockers. The other filter that came with those LC's was the same spec filter recommend for our tacomas now straight from the dealer.

(Again I used to work for Toyota)

I agree with you testing is more needed than jist cutting one open, but I think a company that build oil filters for there bread and butter has done more testing on oil filters than an OEM has, also most OEM's are simply rebrands of another company's filter, there's only a handful of actual manufacturers out there, the rest are rebrands.

As for dropping pressures considering the inlet and outlet diameters have not been changed the pressures on the inlet and outlet sides of the filter should not be changed either, it's mearly adding a larger expansion chamber for the oil inside the filter but flow should be unaffected. Law of hydraulics and all...

Lastly everyone always claims that OE is best becauae their engineers picked that particular one, but remeber they're also trying to reach a price point, when they can save a buck they happily will. An easy place to do that is a smaller filter and less volume of oil when it's not absolutely necissary to have a larger one. OEM's have to deal with a lot more laws regulations and EPA rules that as the end user we don't have to follow.

I want my engine to last me as long as possible so I'll happily cough up a buck for assurance.

OE isn't always better.

YMMV YWTD.

Hobestly best thing to do is to get your oil sampled, tip your waitress, be good to your parents etc...

For what it's worth been running this setup and two different trucks and recently I had to reseal my oil pan on my 2010 (hitting 200k was starting to weep below the front crank pully not the crank seal.) And I could still see the from factory crosshatching from cylinder honeing, I'd say that's doing pretty well for protection.


For 200k boy that's purdy.

Anyway I started doing this after driving my budy's 04 Tundra 600k+ miles still runs like a top, he uses the larger 51516 filter and recommend the 51515 for me since it fits so nice. He's been an ASE and Toyota Mastertech for over 35yrs if nothing else he knows what he's talking a out through pure experience.

Happy trails!

 

I was looking at Fram filters one day in Walmart and every single one I looked at had some drops of dried glue near the threads that I could easily flick off with my fingernail. It may not be a big deal, but I was imagining that glue coming off and circulating through the engine.

I pretty much always use oem or Purolator.

 

That's one of the reasons I use 10w30.

I worked with some of Disneyland's fleet managment techs for a short period of time, they are required to run MMO in the oil as part of their service instructions, their vehicles see some pretty demanding life, short trips stop and go, start and shutdown again and again everyday for years. After seeing how clean a torn apart truck motor with a million miles on it (teardown wear inspection and bearing replacement the motor was still running fine when removed) I was pretty sold on MMO.

Absolutely zero sludge and the rings pistons valves everything was still within spec. At a million miles, there's some magic in that mystery.

 

You mean dry sump?

Wet sump is standard, dry sump is non standard typically only in high performance, (Z06 Vettes are one such example and the hand built LS3's in the manual GS C6's) The purpose of dry sump is to remove the heat stored in the oil away from the block and to help the oil cool as well as increase oil capacity, everything I'm doing with my larger filter and everything the above poster was doing with his bypass oil filters and coolers. Just saying.