Long Travel BS Thread

can change the valving. Any valvable shock can be soft..or hard.

As they are probably valved for mobbing through the desert and not driving down the road to the mall, they will be a bit stiff for that as they are more valved to hit a big whoop right now at speed which takes more compression then driving around town.

But you can send them out to be revalved or do it yourself if you have nitrogen on hand. Adding a flutter stack can help.

 

Coil rate won't have a huge effect unless they are super preloaded or too high. 600lbs should be fine for a truck with no armor.

But taking down the preload would be smart. Plus you want the ride height near the center of travel anyways for best all around performance. @Ayeele how much preload do you have?

 

Makes sense. I have about 15 threads drivers and 13 passenger. About 8inches fron the top of the tire to bottom of the fender

 

I had a traumatic experience with my old co's on my regular cab. A company that shall go unnamed tried to tell me the same coils that would be good for a v6 truck would be good for my truck too. After warning them against that and 3" of lift w/ no preload I believe I was right. Only experience I have with the old swappable coils on co's.

 

sounds like too much preload. Crank it down a bit. And then get ready to cut your fenders.

600lb coils should ride like butter. I have 700lb coils on my LT with no preload at all and its smooth as shit.

Well..yeah thats too heavy of a coil. But coils should be used to hold weight and ride height. Not really adjust the ride itself. Valving will have a way bigger impact on that. You still have to get your rate correct or it isn't going to work at all as you experienced haha

 

least it doesn't stink..haha

 

I got 700’s on my truck... smooth as shit too lol

 

What’s your lever ratio with the new kit compared to the old one?

 

Man I want a ride that's smooth as shit now. Gotta wade through some to get there I guess is the way of it!

 

Or eat something bad

 

Let me stress I want the smooth stuff taking place outside of my cab. Haha

 

Old one was 13” wheel with a 8” shock
New is 18” wheel with a 10”

New kit I have very little preload on the springs

 

Do you guys have any recommendations on wrapping/organizing battery cables? Im moving my battery and I was wondering if I should isolate the positive and negative wire and wrap each in convoluted tubing, and then tie them together with zip ties, and then zip tie them along the frame...any other ideas you guys have?

 

uese this: https://www.techflex.com/

Get some for each cable. Then slide both shielded cables into a bigger shield. Will merit a double shielded cables. Then zip tie to where ever you want.

 

I didnt know about this stuff it looks like it would work great. Which style do you recommend for the battery cables? The standard flex wrap or the high heat one? Thanks for the info!

 

it does. Use it all the time.

Id just use the standard for the cables. If you wanted to sleeve them together with high heat that couldn't hurt. Especially if you plan on running them by any exhaust.

 

On bedcages has anyone used 1 1/2 Inch or does everyone use 1 3/4 ?

 

Convo about cab cages, but until someone else answers you might like to read it:

https://www.race-dezert.com/forum/threads/cab-cage.5654/

 

1.5” will be just fine for a sua setup. It’s just holding shocks while preventing the frame from twisting too much. Good geometry is the most important part. Most people go larger because it looks good when it comes to a play truck. I’ve even seen 2” with 1.75-1.5” secondary support bars.