Orbital polisher recommendations -- and let's debate wax versus polymer

Okay well in that case, check out the good old porter cable 7424 now called xp. They are very nice machines at a fraction of the price of the Rupes and other long throw machines. Been using them for years and they are good durable machines.

 

Watch this guy on youtube, Dallas Paint Correction and Auto Detailing. He gives real good advice on detailing without all the marketing gimmicks. I got the HAF dual action and it was loud as hell. Then, I opened it up and regreased it on his advice and it works like a charm! He just reviewed a 21 mm throw DA from Amazon which I'm getting on his word and I will let you know if you haven't gotten it by the time I get mine.

 

This is what I started with when I got into detailing:
GG6 with 25' cord
5" vented backing plate
3" HD backing plate
2 six packs of Boss pads (5.5" and 3")

Don't skimp on pads. Minimum of 4-6 pads per vehicle if polishing/correcting. Applying wax/sealant you can do with one pad, but if polishing/correcting you want 4-6, no question. And you generally won't know what pads you need until you do a test spot. With some experience, you'll get a feel for what pads to use for different results.

The McKee's 37 360 is a very nice all in one (light correction and lays down a durable Sealant).

 

FYI the GG6 has a lot more power than the Porter Cable. Something to consider.

 

The problem is that it's made by Griot's lol.

OP, I don't know if it's been mentioned, but if you want a forced rotation polisher check out the flex. I got rid of mine, but some people really like them. Very well built German machine imo, I just didn't like it as much as I do long throw Rupes polishers.

 

It's a good solution for weekend warriors that just wanna get in the game for $150 (instead of $300-400). It's a very effective tool with a lifetime warranty. 10 years ago everyone in the detailing world was using a porter cable. They just plain work. Not fancy, but get the job done.

 

Yeah I've used em for at least that long. There weren't many options back then! In reality, those with a MF pad and some Meguiars 205 would be just fine for 95% of guys who do their own stuff. I got the opportunity to use some micro fiber pads way back before you could buy em. They were doing beta testing with well known detailers and i was fortunate enough to be good friends with one of those guys. Those pads along with any machine would probably be mpre than OP needed.

 

I've owned and used Porter-Cable 7424 & 7424XPs, a Griot's, a Flex 3401, DeWalt & Makita rotary buffers as well as a short lived (defective) Rupes. I currently own and use the Griot's and a Flex 3401 - and love it. The Flex is my go-to machine for most correction and the Griot's is for easy stuff and occasionally LSP application. That said, for first time / occasional detailers, the Porter-Cable or the Griot's with an appropriate variety of pads and products will work just fine.

As far as the OP's question about wax or sealant, how long do you want the product to last? Wax will generally last a month or so. Sealants will last several months and coatings can last for over a year. You don't need a machine to apply any of them.

 

I was talking to my boat mechanic about buffers and he brought out his portal cable that he uses for hull sanding, probably the same or similar model. And I can get it locally at Lowe's which is always as advantage. Thanks for the recommendation.

 

Just watched one of the videos, wow is this guy passionate. Bookmarked his page, thank you. Would love to know how you like the DA he recommended.

 

Thanks! Would you recommend that product for a light abrasion / deposit on the clear coat? Or do I need to go to a compound?

 

How light? If you can feel it with your fingernail, probably gonna need a compound. And aim for "improved", not total correction, or you'll blow through the clear coat. If you can't feel it with a fingernail, then the 360 might clean it up. If not, you can always pick up some Meguiars Ultimate Compound or ScratchX locally.

 

By the way, I love that you guys are nerding out on this. Now I'm reading about all the mechanical differences between buffers and it's fascinating. But I'm probably in the $150 range max as far as the buffer itself so likely to be the GG or the PC, some kind of package deal w/pads, plates and product. And now I realize this will be polishing my boat hull twice a year as well.

As far as wax versus polymers/sealants/etc I haven't heard anyone stick up for wax. I'm not surprised. Who's got that kinda time these days?

 

Looking at the one area very closely it looks more like the branch left behind a deposit on top of the clear coat. But there are a couple of other places where there's a small scratch that my fingernail just barely picks up. Appreciate the advice on the products.

 

OP, I have the same issues with a few small places on mine. I had a detailer compound my hood and tailgate and he used meguiars 205 I think then finished with a polish and a sealant and polished the rest of the truck then sealed it. Had a few places on the roof that looked like white pine sap residue had been sitting on the cc for an extended period and would not buff out. I am looking to get a DA and some mild compound and go after the roof to see if I can resolve. If I mess it up its on the roof so not easily seen. I am OCD so I dont know how this is going to go. LOL

 

You'll want to clay the truck before polishing anyway, and the clay will remove any above surface bonded contaminants (sap).

I think the extra power of the Griots (over the porter cable) would be much appreciated if you're gonna be using this on a boat.

Yeah, go with a Sealant, not a wax. FYI megs Ultimate Liquid Wax is actually a Sealant, not a Wax. And it's actually a decent product if you're buying locally.

 

Yeah, I'm OCD too. I keep hearing good things about the Meguiars.

 

I came to the detailing section looking for exactly all this information so I want to thank everyone for their replies. I just bought a TRD Pro and I definitely plan on taking care of it (as well as playing with it). Is there anything yall would recommend as a resource for good preventative care on the paint? I already plan on checking out Dallas Paint Correction & Auto Detailing on youtube, anyone else that you all recommend that is trustworthy? I have the cavalry blue paint and want to make sure it lasts!

 

I was just reading an article recommending waiting two months to wax or seal a truly brand new vehicle (I.e. just painted) to allow all of the chemicals used in paint application to fully evaporate. Interesting.

Although my situation is different with a older vehicle, based on advice here and elsewhere I plan on hand washing and drying every 1-2 weeks, claying every 2-3 months, with a wax application after or possibly a polymer sealant at a longer interval.

I love that blue by the way, the other Taco i looked at was in that color but outta my price range

 

Join the Autogeek detailing forum. It's an awesome resource.