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Turn signal & DRL issue (the flashing is real)

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by Twizted, Feb 16, 2018.

  1. Feb 16, 2018 at 8:07 AM
    #1
    Twizted

    Twizted [OP] 1GR FE

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    So....
    I've searched around and read many posts over the past two days, but haven't found any solid solutions (that have worked for me) so far.
    My right turn signal is causing all sorts of lights to flash. I'm thinking this is simply my DRL circuit being triggered somehow by the turn signal, as it flashes my dash/console lights, head unit, front DRLs, rear tail lights, and license plate lights.

    Here's a short video I took this morning from the inside of the truck:


    There are some pretty old posts here that I was about to revive, but most of the OPs haven't even been on this site in years, so I started a new thread.

    Some history:
    I did modify the two shunt resistors in my DRL/flasher module to compensate for my front Morimoto switchback LED turn signal bulbs, but that was originally done back in October. I did take a little more material off recently because I'd still get hyperflash after the turn signal was activated for long periods of time, and this was almost exactly 1 week before my current flashing issue started. Thinking maybe my modification 1 week ago somehow caused this issue, I took the DRL module out last night, and added material back (lowering the resistance on each circuit), but the issue remains.
    I haven't done any other lighting modifications, nor have I messed with my trailer wiring (commonly referenced as potential reasons in the other threads).

    I first noticed the issue two days ago when my turn signals (both sides) and hazards weren't working while I was leaving a parking lot after having lunch. After pulling over and replacing the blown 15a fuse for my turn signals, the left one worked fine, but the right one activated party-mode. So far, the fuse hasn't blown again, but I've been avoiding the right turn signal (when I can remember) because it looks like I'm using my hazards. The only thing I can even think of that happened while I was in that parking lot is I hopped a curb (DCLB problems) after some old lady stole the parking spot I was about to back into. I was at a weird angle (because I was planning on backing into a spot), so once I continued forward, my right-rear tire jumped up on a small curb. I know it's not much to mention (aside from maintaining #mallcrawler status), but maybe it had something to do with it, since the fuse blew the next time I used my turn signal.

    I'm assuming the first suggestion will be grounds, but honestly I'm not sure where to start checking.
    I'm just looking for places to start looking for the root cause.
    Any ideas?

    Thanks.
     
  2. Feb 16, 2018 at 8:17 AM
    #2
    Muddinfun

    Muddinfun Well-Known Member

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    If you lose a ground, the current from the turn signal back feeds through the bulb to the park/ taillight circuit. If you suspect a problem in the right front, unplug the right front bulbs. That will prevent the backfeed. Then you can trace it down from there.
     
    Tacosail, Chris24 and Twizted[OP] like this.
  3. Feb 16, 2018 at 8:22 AM
    #3
    Twizted

    Twizted [OP] 1GR FE

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    stock af, but hover if you think you disagree... RV living: Vagabond Drifter (6' bed) Custom bed cabinet buildout 175w Renogy solar panel 40a Rich Solar MPPT solar controller 1000w Wagan Pure Line inverter Lavaner Pro 2kw diesel heat exchanger Suspension/wheels: Toytec Aluma 2.5 front shocks with resis 13x700 coils (soon 14x700) Toytec Aluma 2.5 rear shocks SPC UCAs Deaver Stage 3 rear leaf springs Wheeler's 3 degree axle shims Wheeler's U-bolt flip Wheeler's Super Bumpstops 18"x9" XD Monster (x5) 275/75/18 Cooper ST MAXX (x5) EBC Stage 3 pads/rotors Electronics: Kenwood DNX773S iDatalink - Maestro RR Stubby Antenna No-name Switchback LEDs Hella Sharptone horns (no relay) Relocated backup camera w/DIY bracket Armor/recovery: BruteForceFab Rear HC w/swingout BAMF Sliders (DOM, 10 degree w/kick out, rattle-canned) BAMF IFS Skid (BAMF powder-coated) BAMF Mid Skid (BAMF powder-coated) BAMF TC Skid (BAMF powder-coated) BAMF LCA Skids (BAMF powder-coated) BAMF Rear Diff Skid (early model, powder-coated) BAMF CMC Plates US Offroad Winch Bumper Smittybilt X20 10k synthetic rope winch Total Chaos Bed Stiffeners ARB compressor w/air-up kit DIY cowl snorkel ARB rear air-locker Interior: Husky Floor Liners (F&R) Rear 40% seat-delete Hinged fridge platform in place of rear seat Exterior: CaliRaised Low-profile Ditch Light Brackets CaliRaised Side-projecting LED pods CaliRaised Faux TRD Pro Grille Morimoto amber LED fog lights One-of-a-kind 1GRFE plate (second iteration) Removed: OEM Bed Mat CaliRaised bed molle panels
    Thank you, I will be trying this tonight.
     
  4. Feb 17, 2018 at 2:31 PM
    #4
    Twizted

    Twizted [OP] 1GR FE

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    '15 DCLB TRD Locked 4WD & '17 Tundra DC SR5 TRD Offroad
    stock af, but hover if you think you disagree... RV living: Vagabond Drifter (6' bed) Custom bed cabinet buildout 175w Renogy solar panel 40a Rich Solar MPPT solar controller 1000w Wagan Pure Line inverter Lavaner Pro 2kw diesel heat exchanger Suspension/wheels: Toytec Aluma 2.5 front shocks with resis 13x700 coils (soon 14x700) Toytec Aluma 2.5 rear shocks SPC UCAs Deaver Stage 3 rear leaf springs Wheeler's 3 degree axle shims Wheeler's U-bolt flip Wheeler's Super Bumpstops 18"x9" XD Monster (x5) 275/75/18 Cooper ST MAXX (x5) EBC Stage 3 pads/rotors Electronics: Kenwood DNX773S iDatalink - Maestro RR Stubby Antenna No-name Switchback LEDs Hella Sharptone horns (no relay) Relocated backup camera w/DIY bracket Armor/recovery: BruteForceFab Rear HC w/swingout BAMF Sliders (DOM, 10 degree w/kick out, rattle-canned) BAMF IFS Skid (BAMF powder-coated) BAMF Mid Skid (BAMF powder-coated) BAMF TC Skid (BAMF powder-coated) BAMF LCA Skids (BAMF powder-coated) BAMF Rear Diff Skid (early model, powder-coated) BAMF CMC Plates US Offroad Winch Bumper Smittybilt X20 10k synthetic rope winch Total Chaos Bed Stiffeners ARB compressor w/air-up kit DIY cowl snorkel ARB rear air-locker Interior: Husky Floor Liners (F&R) Rear 40% seat-delete Hinged fridge platform in place of rear seat Exterior: CaliRaised Low-profile Ditch Light Brackets CaliRaised Side-projecting LED pods CaliRaised Faux TRD Pro Grille Morimoto amber LED fog lights One-of-a-kind 1GRFE plate (second iteration) Removed: OEM Bed Mat CaliRaised bed molle panels
    Thanks to the suggestion of @Muddinfun I no longer have party mode.
    I ended up blowing the turn signal fuse under the hood, as well as the tail light fuse (DRL) under the dash. Looks like a bad Morimoto bulb was the culprit though. I never thought a bulb could cause this much grief. I've got standard 4157 bulbs in now, and am not sure if I'll get another set of switchbacks.

    20180217_142950.jpg
     
    Muddinfun likes this.
  5. Feb 18, 2018 at 3:30 AM
    #5
    topcathr

    topcathr Well-Known Member

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    MUDNFUN I have had that exact thing happen to me several times. The current goes thru anything it can to get to ground.
     
    Muddinfun likes this.

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