2nd gen V6 stalling issue , SEAFOAM ????

So this just started . 2008 auto with 105xxx miles . Was my daily driver but I have not worked in a year so it sits more than it ever has but not enough to have old gas in it .When moving from D to P or D to R it stalls . Its also idling low . Im thinking the MAF sensor or build up in injectors ? Plugs new at 64000 .Any ideas ? Thanks

 

Oh yea ,bought some Seafoam !Will try that at next fill up . Any other advice still welcome ! Thanks again.

 

Any one ?

 

I bought some Sea foam and put it in my 2007 Toyota 4 runner and actually got 40 more miles to the tank last week.

 

Thats good to know ! Seafoaming everything I own today ! Truck ,snowblower , generator, mowers , chainsaw .

 

Added the Seafoam (1 1\2 cans ) filled her up only drove about 10 miles so far ,stalled in the driveway when I got home ,still doing it check my air filter thats good . At start up idles at around 1100 rpms put in in drive with foot on brake drops to 800rpms move to R or P and it stalls .?????

 

Any chance it has lost electrical power recently? Any time the electrical supply to the ECU is interrupted, the ECU will reset. This can happen when you disconnect the battery to do some maintenance, or pull certain wiring harness plugs loose. You said it sits a lot. Have you had to jump start it any? When the ECU is reset it takes a while to “learn” trim curves and throttle settings for your specific atmospheric conditions. Lots of folks never have an issue because their altitude/temp/humidity allows decent running on the default setting. Other however, myself included, can have difficulty even keeping the engine running until the ECU adjusts. This isn’t a lucky or or unlucky ECU thing. It’s a lucky or unlucky location thing.

There’s still something else it could be that is related. Refineries change fuel blends based on region and season. This is to give you the cheapest fuel that will run well. I believe your ECU is constantly “adapting” to your conditions. Perhaps if you’ve gone long enough without a fill up, the blend in the pump today is substantially different than what your ECU has adjusted to. I don’t know if the blend can make that much difference or not.

I have a manual, but when my ECU gets rest my truck is almost undrivable. I’ve found that he best thing to do is just sit in the driveway, give it a little gas if tries to die on me, restart it if it does die on me, and just wait for it to start running right. This is usually 20-30 minutes! Then it runs like a dream again.

 

The longest it has sat was 5 days .It has not been jump started ever . I almost always get my gas at the same place . It only stalls when moving the gear selector ,other than that it runs fine .

 

They change blends to match the season even if you get gas at the same place all the time, but I wouldn’t think that would be a problem unless it had been months since your last fill up. Haven’t taken it anywhere to have work done or oil changed within the last 50-100 miles? Weak idling could also be plugs or coils, but I wouldn’t replace a coil without checking things out with a good diagnostic scanner. I also wouldn’t change plugs unless they were due to be changed anyway. I’m not sure what the interval is on the V6, but those would be relatively new in the 2.7L. You might pull them and see how they look if you’re bored. I’m not sure if a MAF or MAP problem would cause that or not. IAC or TPS might do it to. If you don’t think the ECU lost power recently, then I’d probably look into a good diagnostic scan. There are some pretty good OBDII scanners out there in the $100 range. You can spend $100 changing fluids and adding fuel additives pretty quickly, and with the scanner you’ll have it for years to come to help you with other problems. A good scanner could show you if there’s a miss, which cylinder, what conditions it happens during and when it goes away, check all your sensors, record what they do while you drive etc. You can save a lot of time and money that way.

 

Do you run a k&n filter? Has anyone previously?

CLEAN YOUR THROTTLE BODY AND MAF. Start here before digging in further. Once you’re done cleaning, reset the ECU (take off the negative battery cable for 30 mins) and see how it does.

 

Now I’m curious regarding how many folks have bad experiences with K&N’s. I couldn’t be happier. I drive dusty dirt roads and around cotton gins and get all kinds of filth in my truck. I’ve literally pulled a K&N with over 1/2” of funk built up on the outside and so I’ve NEVER seen the inside look anything but new and clean. It could be that different kinds of dust cause problems more than others, but for me I’ve never seen anything get through a K&N, and even if they let larger particles through than paper filters, going just a little too long in my conditions with a paper filter would result in a clog that eventually ruined the filter and let EVERYTHING through. I’ve seen it.

I do have some schmutz in my intake, but that’s because the first time I changed the filter I did it in the dark, and didn’t notice until the next time I popped the hood that the tabs on the back side weren’t in their slots.

 

AFE dry

 

Getting a diagnostic scan tomorrow

 

So weird , I was just thinking about cleaning the MAF . Never been done .105000 miles on it

 

My 4runner with 4.0 previous owner used a K&N. I took the intake apart and it was full of oily goo. My throttle body was all gunked. It wouldn’t close completely due to all the buildup. I cleaned what I could off the plastic, cleaned my throttle body, and ran seafoam through the intake. Made a dramatic improvement in my idle quality and general smoothness of the engine.

PS if a decent quality paper filter “clogs” it won’t fail. It will filter better, letting less air in, which will affect your power, but will protect your engine better than an oil media filter. Check out Bob Is The Oil guy forums for in-depth research of this.

 

I bought the truck new . Always a dry type filter . Thanks

 

When where your spark plugs changed last, redline complete fuel system cleaner is the best stuff I have ever used.

 

Plugs changed once at 64000

 

They are due again usually 36000 miles