Frame Rust - Eastwood products?

There's a lot of threads out there about rust repair, but I'm about to do a first round of rust treatment and I'm thinking that I'll just use Eastwood products and have a couple of questions on their use.

From their website, it seems that they have products that both strip the rust and ones that require the rust to bond to. There's rust converter and rust encapsulator that both require the frame to not be stripped to metal. Any benefit of one over the other? Encapsulator seems like it may be designed to work with thicker rust build up, which is where I'm at. I'm not planning on stripping the frame to bare metal. I'm not planning on doing an overcoat with paint at this time. I'd save that for when I get to taking off the bed and do a thorough rust attack.

I'll also use the internal frame green encapsulator. I probably won't be able to effectively remove the rust that has built up in there. Although I did see how someone attached some chainlinks to the end of a wire cable that went into a drill and just pummelled the inside of the frame to break rust away... I'd then just need to use compressed air to blast it out before using the encapsulator.

Anyone recommend looking at different products, or does this seem reasonable?

 

I would recommend you treat the rust and paint you frame all at the same time. Because if you wait between the rust treatment and the painting, the rust will have time to come back and you may have to start all over again when you'll be ready to paint it.

The first thing you must do before treating your frame is remove as much loose rust as you can. Then you treat the frame with the rust killer/converter. Then you use the encapsulator (it's like some kind of primer that will bond to the metal, allowing paint to stick better to your frame) Then, after restoring and repainting your frame, you'll have to rustproof it. As paint only is not enough to keep rust away

For the inside, if you have to patch your frame due to being rusted through, cut out all the bad portions and send compressed air in.
But if your frame doesn't need to be patched, it's a bit trickier, since you can't access the inside easily. You could try to tape a long flexible tube/hose to the end of a shopvac hose and insert it through the square holes on the frame rails? Or tie a magnet to a rope, push it into the frame through these square holes and go rust fishing? (long and tedious, but it works)

To rustproof the inside, you need a 360° spray wand. I think eastwood does sell one. If not, here you go:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dinitrol-E...593989&hash=item3af0affa58:g:~aAAAOSwYIxYByuJ

recommendations:
POR15 is a good paint to use to repaint a frame
If you want to DIY, fluid film is an excellent product to use for rustproofing purposes (smells like shit but it works). Use this with a 360° spray can wand to do the inside of the frame and you're good to go

 

Hey this is an excellent reply thank you. Haha rust fishing... sounds.... better than a kick in the nuts, maybe?

In terms of not doing it all at once I just don’t have the ability/time to disassemble everything. But I want to hit the big areas that I can reach. I’d probably re do it again when I am able to get to the rest.

So, physically remove the rust, spray the Encapsulator on and then paint it.

Or should I physically remove, them chemically strip or use their converter, then paint? It seems like they don’t suggest to use Encapsulator over converter because then there is no rust left to encapsulate??

I’m hoping to order stuff soon but they’ve been closed for days due to the storms on the east coast. Lucky snow getters!

 

I did it as ....
1st remove the spare tire and rear bumper, that will give you a lot of access to hard to reach spots.

For the interior:

truck was parked in 30 or some inclination so pressure water flow and remove dirt.

Physically remove the rust, mud , rocks and all crap inside the chambers and frame , 1st rinse hose with tip water pressure , 2nd. buch of degreaser, then rinse again , let it dry one or 2 weeks I don't recall, then air hose the fine dust inside and then use the 360 Eastwood interior application I choose black instead of the green. 1st Cover all the holes with painters tape and work your way using the technique they have on video.

For the exterior:

Since you already clean the frame, remove flakes if any , I didn have any flakes besides rear bumper was eaten by rust, just look for the real rusty areas all outside frame and apply the Rust converter, let it dry for 72 hours, then paint the whole exterior of the frame with CHASSIS SAVER. bANG!@ Done.

I spray the Encapsulator on the little areas of the crosschambers where I couldnt access with painters sponges with chassis saver.

Ordered:
1 box of gloves
1 bottle of rust converter, ( I should order the little one , got 1/2 left)
1 rust encapsulator
3 cans of the internal frame coating ( each can comes with spray wand, once you start one can , finished same day)
1/4 of chassis saver ( that thing gets hard quickly , keep is seal , try to do the whole paint of the outside in a different day, one day only for exterior)
Photos in my media if you have time to see.

I will say cleaning 1/2 day
After it dries then converter and interior paint 1 day
External painting 1 day ... by myself I'm slow and not fun being there so you want to take your time to do it right. Anyways I lost record of how much time got invested but was long days on thanksgiving vacation of 2016

 

Well, it is always better to remove or neutralize the rust before painting over it. You don't want it to continue spreading underneath the paint, unseen to the eye, untill it is too late
The primer does not chemically react with rust to stick to it. It sticks to rough uneven surfaces (rust is, hence why it sticks to it). I guess you will use a wire brush to remove the rust? Even if there is not much rust left, this will have created a rough surface to which the primer and the paint will stick.

 

Figured I'd tell my story for your reference. I pressure washed frame inside and out while parked on a hill . 90 degree wand.... When throughly dry, several days ... painted frame welds (and any other similar areas after wire brushing),with a brush and eastood rust encapsulator. Painted inside with green phosphate internal frame coating. Painted the crap out of all the rest of the outside of it with rust bullet black ...(better then POR in my opinion because it sticks to rust and not rusted areas)

Allowed it to dry throughly and fluid film every fall. This frame had minimal rust (South Carolina) when I got it so I did not need to pull any abrasives through frame....