major f*** up while doing valve adjustment-PLEASE HELP

This was a while ago (obviously) but I ended up pulling the cam out, replacing the bucket, and very, VERY carefully knocking the high edges of the cam off with some emory cloth.

It worked for 2,000 miles or so and then I ended up having to replace the whole head on the truck anyway due to an un-related issue...

I think you'll be fine. Seems we weren't the first folks to make this mistake anyway.


The truck is now for sale too only because I needed a bigger truck and bought a Tundra

 

Thanks for the prompt feedback guys! Glad to hear that smoothing over the nicked cam has worked out, I'm fairly certain I'll do the same.

SOMDTACO - If looking at the lifter from overhead and assuming the shim removal gap is located at 6 o'clock, I broke the shim retaining lip at about 8-9 o'clock. Definitely a separate gap from the shim removal gap. I'll try and get some photos up this evening.

 

I would just replace the whole lifter/bucket than you know your good. I can send you the applicable part of the FSM that walks you though how to do this if you want. Just ask.

 

I can’t make much out from the pictures, but the OP mentions that the cracked bucket still holds a valve okay. All I can think is that if they seem to be brittle and are now damaged, then it just wouldn’t be worth the risk. If a valve come out, it’s gonn drop into the cylinder, bend a rod, destroy a piston, and score the cylinder. If the score isn’t too deep then at least you could reuse the crank, block, and other rods. Why risk a multi-thousand dollar repair to save the trouble to replace one bucket? Again, I can’t really tell from the pic. It may be no big deal, but if there’s any question, I’d replace it. The cam on the other hand is not the end of the world. If the damage causes any problems the worst it would be is excess wear on the cam lobe and the lifter.

 

See photos above for the damage to both the lifter shim retaining lip and cam lobe. I've got a new lifter on order (along with all the needed shims) and plan to smooth over the nick in the cam lobe. Hope to have everything back together this weekend. I'll update once I'm back on the road!

 

After looking at it, my GUESS would be that it’s nothing to worry about. Still, if you can wait to order it, I’m sure you’ll have much more peace of mind in the long run. It’s probably no big deal, but considering what it holds in place it’s a big die to roll.

 

Hey, at least replacing the shims will be easier with the cam off.

 

The cam lobe damage is survivable and as long as there isn't a burr along the chipped edge that would gouge the shim, I wouldn't worry about it. However, the bucket damage needs addressing. You might get away with a small chip, like shown in post #25, but the longer one of the OP's is recipe for disaster. Until you see the damage a spit shim can cause, you'll never appreciate the importance of keeping them firmly seated in the bucket. I'm speaking from race bikes mainly, but also from other DOHC engines that use shim-in-bucket designs. At lower operating rpm's it probably won't be an issue, but under high rpm, or quick transient rpms (low to high when rocking to get unstuck), or high load to low load (winding out and then shifting), the shim can bounce a little, and if it catches the edge of the broken bucket...... the possibilities don't bear mentioning. But......broken camshaft, cracked head, bent valves, holed pistons and more.

A fellow racer friend, back in the '80s, spit a shim at 8500 rpm on a missed shift (FJ600 Yamaha, and his shims were most likely not damaged), and grenaded the engine. Helluva note to literally explode the motor when its between your legs. For my own piece of mind, I'd do what it takes to replace the bucket. I've never been inside a Taco V6, but looks like the cams are gear driven; lots easier than belt or chain drive cams to remove and re-time. Make sure the cam bearing caps go back exactly the way they are removed, in the same position and orientation, and proper torque applied to their bolts.

 

Just a quick update - Truck is back on the road! In fact, I've been driving it all week and it's running great. I smoothed over the nicked cam lobe using the following polishing wheels in conjunction with a dremel: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075YWGNZ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These worked very well. I replaced the damaged lifter with a new one and re-shimmed all the valves as needed - so much easier with the cams removed. Once back together I ran the truck for a few miles and dumped the old oil and filter for new.

Just FYI - the truck has a little over 186,000 miles (I've owned it since 112,000 miles), this was the 1st time I checked the valve clearance on this truck. The exhaust side had three valves that were too tight (0.2 & 0.22 mm), all exhaust valves that were in spec were on the tight side so I went ahead and re-shimmed these as well to bring them back into the middle of the clearance range (0.25 to 0.35 mm for exhaust). The #4 cylinder's intake valves were also tight at 0.127 mm, correct clearance for the intake is 0.15 to 0.25 mm.

Thanks to all who replied

 

3.4 has a belt, the 4.0 and 3.5 are chain driven

 

Well I just joined the club

See pictures. 2.7 liter 220k miles; It’s the front #1 intake shim. I haven’t found the piece of the bucket. I assume I have to take the intake cam off to replace the bucket?

 

SeaFoam.

 

That looks pretty minor to me. Your bucket looks better than mine did and I kept mine and it's been fine. But that choice is yours. Def need to smooth out that cam lobe though.

 

Looks like I will need to hold off on removing the shafts (if I do) because directions say to get it at top dead center before doing so...

 

Check out where the piece of the bucket landed; right on the chain tensioner.