The ultimate headlight upgrade H4 (not LED or HID)

what kind of harness is needed for that and where would I get one?

 

I’m assuming you have an H4 to H11/H9 spilt adapter installed for your aftermarket headlights, to retain low/high beam function.

You then would add the harness from this thread to your low beams:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-ultimate-foglight-upgrade-h11-not-led-or-hid.435419/

 

Finally did it and I just wanted to thank everyone here who helped this awesome upgrade come true here are some pics.

This is my new light holk up for both my fogs and low beams (when i want to upgrade those bulbs aswell...havent decided on what to put ib the projectors)

These are the stock fog lights that came with the truck straight from factory


Pardon my shot here its blurry but the light here are my new 3500 piaa h11s they are 55w each and holy crap the yellow. Love how the fogs now actually spread the light wider and also look like what a fog light should do.

I am happy and feel safer out there on these winter roads. Had to rush to the hospital in a snow storm and let me tell you this would have helped me.

If your up for this mod have fun and good luck

 

Hey guys, I broke a mounting piece of plastic and can't find the part number. Does anyone happen to know what the part number is or what this part is called?



It goes under this bolt


Any help would be apprecaited!

 

Pull it out and take it to any auto parts store. There will be a generic Dorman brand replacement.

 

Still haven't bought my damn harness yet.

 

Not buying you that one.

 

Ha ha just not sure still of which one to get

 

Besides it being more extensive than the other, is there any more of a reason to go with higher priced version?

 

Go with the Headlight Services harness, it is a better buy and uses real German made relays vs German Hellas relays now made in China. If I were doing it again I would purchase Headlight Services.

 

I'll order it tonight then thanks again

 

Just got notified of a new bulb.

https://www.powerbulbs.com/us/product/ge-megalight-ultra-130-h4

 

I’ve seen those. Advantage with the GE Megalight +120 is they don’t have the blue band over the high beam, it is just on the tip so no filaments are covered. With the +130 they moved the band from the tip back to cover the high beam, reducing high beam performance. But no different than Philips +130 or Osram +130. The GE +130 would be just as good of an option.

GE needs to work on their product packaging though, the large open box allows the bulbs to fall out of their slots and rattle around against each other during shipping. When I ship those I stuff the inside of the bulb box with with shredded paper to keep the bulbs in check!

 

I went with this harness and it really is great quality. It was shipped to my door within a couple days too

Just waiting on the bulbs to come in to get everything installed

 

Need a multimeter to determine your conventional vs ground switched situation? Shoot me a PM and I'll mail you on for free.

 

Hey @crashnburn80 I know this thread is specifically about the main bulb in the headlights but I recently switched my daytime running lights to LED (I have the shitty melting problem) and now they aren't functional as daytime running, they work as blinkers just fine but fast as hell.

I read about an inline resistor (more difficult approach) or a relay specifically for led. Note this is the only item I have switched to LED if that matters.

Any help would be appreciated. Sorry for the thread jack.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/05-drl-daytime-running-lights-install-oem.1475/ towards last pages may help

 

Thanks!

 

All of this just sounds like a major headache. I know people who have spent money/time/effort converting their blinkers to LEDs, then running inline resistors to resolve hyper flash but having the resistors get too hot and melt the plastic mounting surface (Subaru). Then end up mucking around with the resistors mounting to try and make it heat safe. Then end up having diodes on their Amazon LEDs go out and need replacement, lasting a fraction of the time of an OEM quality long life bulb.

Hyperflash is due to the vehicle thinking the bulb is out because the LED isn't drawing enough power on flash compared to what the truck expects, so the truck hyper flashes because it thinks the bulb has burnt out letting the driver know it needs to be changed. The solution is to run a resister to draw more power and convert it to heat, negating the energy savings of the LED, so that the truck sees the power draw it is expecting and does not hyperflash.

Are your LEDs a dual filament bulb replacement?

I would suggest addressing the real issue and updating your headlights to the TSB version which has resolved the melting DRL issue. You can then run stock $4 bulbs that will last 5+ years and not deal with trying to modify your electrical system to run aftermarket LEDs, and everything will function as stock. You'll also have new lenses to clear up that melted DRL.

In the original post I have side-by-side pictures of Toyotas OEM smoked housings compared to chrome. Below are the part numbers with some decent prices I found for the 2005-2011 smoked assemblies, this is a copy/paste from the original thread. You can get chrome for cheaper. Note that aftermarket housings will not perform as well as stock.

OEM 2005-2011 smoked headlights:
These are like the Pro lights, but came on select Sport models. These are available loaded with bulbs, and unloaded w/o bulbs, saving $60 off the set . These part numbers are for the unloaded housings. These are the updated TSB version of the lights that do not have the melting DRL issue.
Right #81130-04173
Left #81170-04173

 

Yep I have to the smoked out they are goners, got hooked up with another cheap oem set, not TSB, not looking to drop another 300+ at the time, got the issue fixed though without running inline resistors, appreciate the write up though.

Solid thank you to @BenMara for the link, it got me squared away.