Pelfreybilt Off-Road

Both look great! Here is @h5863emtmatt rocking our Tacoma Aluminum Front Bumper without hoops.




2016-2018 Tacoma, Aluminum Plate Bumper - starting at $1299
http://www.pelfreybilt.com/product/2016-2017-toyota-tacoma-aluminum-front-plate-bumper/

Rocking the Center Hoop or 3 Hoop will give you added protection which is certainly beneficial if you live in an area with wildlife that could enter the roadway. A lot comes down to personal preference as well. Here is @shawn_free with the Single Hoop



-Pelfreybilt
www.pelfreybilt.com

 

I have a second gen and while I originally was dead set on no hoops and eventually got a full hoop bumper and I love it.
@Pelfreybilt does such good work and not only are the bumpers functional they also look great so you can't go wrong with any of the configurations.

 

Question for those with swingout rear bumpers; How do you extend the rear camera? Splice in wires and make your own harness? How long does it need to be? Do you drill holes into the top bar of the swingout and rivet the camera bracket to that bar?

My brother received the actual install instructions from Pelfreybilt with his bumper and it doesn't mention what to do at all. Any information would great help and TIA

 

This fella sliced in 20ga wires, I'm curious myself if there's an easier way.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-back-up-camera-relocate-with-spare-tire-swingout.491245/

Found another, looks like splicing is the way.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/anyone-relocate-the-reverse-camera-for-a-tire-swinger.351858/

 

Cut the connector off (allowing enough wire to comfortably extend it), add in needed amount of wire, mount, and adjust to match the proximity lines. Pretty simple TBH. Made the bracket out of some scrap Al.

 

I took the OEM mount loose from the frame and that gave me about four more inches of cable to play with. Here's what I ended up with. I'm still tweaking it to avoid the cable hanging up but it seems to be working.

 

Wrap the wire around the outside of the spindle housing and then bring it back in. The "service loop" works well and gets tucked away inside the cutout in the bumper for the rear fender

EDIT: Something like this. Has worked well for me. Keeps the wire clear of the pull pin when open as well

 

I appreciate all the replies, pics and information guys!

I assumed that it was spretty self explanatory, but this definitely helps. I saw one thread linked that they used self tappers to attach the camera bracket. Curious if anyone used rivets before.

Last question, what do you guys do to fill the hole in the handle? I have to see if I have the parts from the pop & lock if there was a fill piece or not but it might be long gone. Pics/part number greatly appreciated. Thanks again!

 

I just drilled and tapped one hole in the swingout.

For the hOle in the handle I blocked it off from the inside with black plastic so it matches. Tbh though, it's not something I ever see or even look at

 

I used the two extra rivets from the table hardware to mount the camera. I left the OEM camera/harness in place and just bought another camera and harness.

 

I believe the setscrew hits that groove.

 

I was scratching my ass trying to figure it out as well. My o-ring slid up to the top of the cap so I just lubed it up and pressed down as I tightened up the set screw. Not sure if that's the right thing or not.

 

I contacted Pop & Lock, and ordered their “camera snap part number 20-5400-60”.

 

I am guessing the highlift mount for the swingout is for the smaller sized one aka non extreme correct?

@Pelfreybilt

 

Was not able to order that part.

 

Sorry about the issue. The O-ring should seat into that groove. The fit is very tight and may require some lubrication on the outer ring. Sometimes turning the cap while pressing down helps prevent the ring from popping out as easily.

-Pefreybilt
www.pelfreybilt.com

 

Thanks for the update. Looks like I'll be doing battle with an o-ring this weekend.

 

@itaro @Pelfreybilt I went to Ace and bought a bit smaller o-ring that fit in the groove better but it was still a cast iron bitch to fit in there.


After screwing with it for a while I noticed that just above the upper bearing race there's a machined groove. Sure enough the supplied o-ring popped right in there. I packed it full of grease and the cap seated perfectly right in there. It's in the hole....

 

HA! That's too fucking funny.

I only used the one supplied o-ring in the "factory" groove. I packed it with enough "boy butter" that it's fine. I even hogged out the groove in the cap with jewelers files but that second o-ring wanted no part of going in.

 

Sorry for not reading every page or post; Anyone here with a DIY tailgate locking solution? TIA.