Fluid Film and door seals...

Hope this is the right forum for this question.

Just picked up a gallon of liquid Fluid Film. I'm having it applied at a shop that does rustproofing/window tinting/etc. (messy job, and they've got a lift) Emailed the owner first, he says they've never used FF before, but apparently read up on it and said "Sure, we can do that. It'll take 2 -2.5 hours of shop time." I'm hoping they will be thorough about it, with that amount of time.

Question is: Are there any tips on how to do the inside of the doors (popular place for rust) without the FF eventually running down onto the door seals?

I understand that FF will cause *NON* oil-resistant rubber, like door seals, to swell to the point that they will pop out of the track and the seals will then need to be replaced.

Any other non-oil-resistant rubber I should be aware of?

Thoughts?

 

I’ve never heard of anyone fluid filming their door jams.

You film bare steel not painted metal surfaces.

Door jams are only a soft spot for rust for people who are complete pigs who trash their trucks and never take the time to clean the door jams and inspect the floor jam for cracked or chipped paint and then don’t fix it so it rusts to hell.

You should be washing your door jams every time you wash the truck.

Pull that floor plastic peice off and vaccum and clean under there to prevent any salt build up (if you live in a salt state).
If you notice paint wear, paint pen over it or get door sill protectors and place over the area (once you clean and treat with a de-ironizer).

Fluid filming the door jams sounds messy

 

Not door jambs... Doors. I can take some pics of my '97 Ranger that's had 18 years exposure to road salt if it would help. The two areas to go were the rear fenders and the door bottoms.

I washed the thing dutifully all winter long whenever the temps got above freezing (including those areas you have to open the doors to get to) and would pressure-wash the underside including the fender wells. Still rusted. ...and yes I made sure the drain holes in the doors were always open and not clogged with gunk.

edit: I emailed FF tech support yesterday. They speedily replied and said:

"...as a wax based product and one that is designed to creep. Hotter temperatures of spring and summer can cause our product to run. I would try a lighter mist of the product. in a contained environment like a door. A quick application can be better than applying the product heavily and letting it eventually run down to the drain holes."

 

You might need to post a pic. You are talking about door seals, those only exist within the door jams (to which I also define that as the door side, not just the body side)

I would not film any painted surface #1 it will look dirty #2 it will hold contaminants against the paint which will give you a great place to rust.

Tacomas are not Rangers. So they won’t have the same design flaws. I know some manufacturers have engineering defects in the folded and welded portions in the doors that will inevitably rust.

 

Points noted.

While finding out all I could about FF, I ran across a couple of people that warned of FF running down the door inside, through the drain holes, and onto their weatherstripping (which, again, cause the weatherstripping to swell). Even FF warns about this ("don't allow FF to come in contact with non-oil-resistant rubber"). Is this a problem on a Tacoma? I have no idea, which is kinda' why I was asking if anyone had any tips about applying this stuff. I HAVE watched every Tacoma-specific FF video out there, people tend to speak in generalities (not "do here", "get in there", etc). Since I'm having a rustproofing shop do this, I'm hoping they know what's best.

While I don't know if it's absolutely necessary, it seems to me that giving the door insides a shot of FF would be a good idea in areas of the Country where rust is a real problem.

 

I think these guys sell the rubber plugs. You drill a hole in the bottom of the door,sqray in FF and then plug the holes with these rubber plugs.

Click on the link and look at the very bottom of the page.

It’s not sprayed on the outside door jams. You need the flexible wand that goes to a rattle can and spray inside bottom of door. That’s where moisture holds and rust starts.

http://www.kellsportproducts.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3JOTsbS62gIVjCaGCh2AwQwCEAAYAiAAEgLpFPD_BwE