Cold Air Intakes. Debunking false claims.

I haven't read through this whole thread, and am def not going to, but for these trucks the intake design is already efficient enough for the style of driving in which they were intended for. If you were to add on other performance enhancing parts such as headers, cat back, high flow fuel pump, and even boost, then that is where you will see a significant improvement over the stock intake. The FIPK by itself offers minimal performance gains. I have seen on smaller cars significant performance gains from adding an aftermarket intake, but it really depends on the engineering design of the vehicle that will determine whether a FIPK will be beneficial. I also assumed that you had more knowledge on this subject based on some statements that you made in your first few posts, but I was mistaken, so, the FIPK stands for exactly what it means, air flow is a part of your fuel injection as air needs to mix with the atomized fuel to create proper combustion. That's why it's called an FIPK vs a CAI.

 

OP @TacoSauce quick question, you know when you look at the stock filter box, it has a hole on the fender side going towards the wheel well.. when you replace your intake with your k&n CAI, will that hole gonna be covered or it will be left open? if left open, is it safe?

 

It is left open purposely so the "cooler" air from inside the fender can still find its way to the intake. Its not as efficient as the stock one I will admit, the stock intake has that tube that directs the air straight into the intake. The K&N has some gaps and not a enclosed system so its drawing air from inside the engine + whatever air comes through that hole. I don't think too much water or dirt can find its way up inside the fender so I cant imagine it being unsafe. But the style of these filters do not filter out fine dust like the stock one will so if you drive offroad a lot , that is something to keep in mind. I drove offroad about 20% of the time I drive my truck so I could care less about the dust thing. I'm sure others will chime in and correct me if I am wrong.

 

Oh, it's definitely my opinion. My opinion that I shouldn't wait for the motor to scream at me before I shift. One of the reasons I don't buy used often.

If people really are installing CAI to help them shift, they probably need an auto.

 

"probably" being the key word. maybe have a beer and stop yappin.

 

Dude, I'm not the one saying I installed a CAI to help me know when to shift.

 

i see you're one step ahead of me on the beer part. ignored..

 

I think if you hear something AND feel it, your senses are more in touch with the car and engine vs only being able to feel it. I think a better way to describe it would be that it enhances the experience of driving a MT and makes it more fun and enjoyable.

 

Thanks for sharing this!

 

I use a shift lite set at 6800rpm !!

 

Way back in the dark ages, we used to flip over the air cleaner top, or if we were going to race, take the air cleaner off completely. That allowed more air to get to the carb faster for a "little" quicker throttle response. It also sounded "tougher." Also, not too many drag cars had air cleaners. That did work however with all the computer controlled fuel and air mixtures, I question the value of the TRD CAI. Not saying it doesn't ad to the performance, just saying how much if any. I lean toward the concept that the CAI's do help performance but also would agree with some that evaluating their performance on a dyno could be somewhat misleading. Kind of like trying to see how much a ram air system increases performance. Those results do not show on a stationary dyno because there is no forced air going to the engine. That being said, I put CAI's or ram air systems on all my vehicles and enjoyed the "difference" especially the ram air kits which were a very noticeable improvement. Always thought I'd build a ram air for my Tundra and enjoy the extra power (after approximately 35mph).

 

only thing is that normally the truck operates in the 2000-2500 RPM range when driving, I don't think I ever owned a Toyota truck that ever even came close to 4000 rpms so a gain in that range would be moot or never happening

 

Right? I'm surprised there isn't one shop owner out of the lot.

 

I can't remember that last time my truck stayed under 2500 rpms on a drive.

 

whens the last time you got to 4000 RPMS is the real question, never, you would be driving well over 100 MPH to ever attain it,the OP said the cold air intake is at its most effective gains at 4000 RPMs ANY Toyota pickup ever built will not normally operate in this range because it would be going at least 100-120 MPH to get there.

 

Thats what I was thinking lol Sounds like the kind of driver you don't want to get stuck behind

 

Playing on the street from a Dig or from a roll !!!

 

Literally every time I merge onto the highway. Your truck pulls into the 4000 rpm range while running the gears... Yeah, in 6th you'd have to be going 100mph, but you use the powerband in every gear.

 

yes it may reach 4000 rpm at (full WOT but doubt it), but the fact of the matter is the truck usually operates at 2000-2500 rpms(or less) which will be 65-75 mph(the speed limit) so putting a cold air intake into a truck just because u think it will help when merging into traffic is a fruitless endeavor. to say the least but it will look cool.