Diet Taco... trying to keep things light

The Smith · Apr 16, 2018

^ Thanks a bunch!

dman100 · Apr 16, 2018

I have a couple of the Rothco bags and also two of these similar Fox Outdoors bags, a handy size for larger items.

$32 Fox Outdoor Products Jumbo Mechanic Tool Bag, Black

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XIUDH0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Both Fox and Rothco seem sturdy.

scocar · Apr 16, 2018

dman100 said: ↑

I have a couple of the Rothco bags and also two of these similar Fox Outdoors bags, a handy size for larger items.

$32 Fox Outdoor Products Jumbo Mechanic Tool Bag, Black

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XIUDH0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Both Fox and Rothco seem sturdy.
Click to expand...

Oooh, 19 inches long. That could be good for the bigger stuff like hitch wrenches, breakers bars, BFH, etc, but still squishy enough to jam it in tight places.

scocar · Apr 16, 2018

DoorDing said: ↑

This is a family site. Reported.
Click to expand...

Sometimes a cigar is just a cigar. Reported.

dman100 · Apr 16, 2018

scocar said: ↑

Oooh, 19 inches long. That could be good for the bigger stuff like hitch wrenches, breakers bars, BFH, etc, but still squishy enough to jam it in tight places.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I bought one and it worked so well I just bought a second one. It fits my folding shovel and my hitch with ball. Plus a bunch of other stuff I usually carry and never need I’m trying to figure out how to make a minimalist rack to hold the bags over my shortbed wheelwells ... that always seems like wasted space (I rarely use a platform).

DVexile · Apr 20, 2018

Ah well, I've decided no Death Valley trip next week. The weather actually looks great but I just don't have the time and energy right now to make the best of it. Part of the "problem" is that last week I sort of ran out of steam as far as work goes and while my wife was away and I was single parenting I decided to do a bit of a "staycation" and finally get the garage in order after having lived here for eight years!

I built a workbench (well two if I include the wee one for a drill press and vise) and dug out a bunch of tools that have been in various boxes for years. So I finally have a nice garage workspace. And we can finally walk around the garage without tripping on things or having stuff fall on us. It was nice to take a few days and actually work on tangible things!

So no trip or trip report coming, but in lieu of that a picture of the work corner of the garage!

Hope everyone is having a great spring!

Maybe some mods will get built here?

ETAV8R · Apr 20, 2018

What a bummer!
I was looking forward to your next adventure. I'm working on my write up now. Five days is a lot of writing. The garage looks great!

scocar · Apr 20, 2018

DVexile[OP] said: ↑

Ah well, I've decided no Death Valley trip next week. The weather actually looks great but I just don't have the time and energy right now to make the best of it. Part of the "problem" is that last week I sort of ran out of steam as far as work goes and while my wife was away and I was single parenting I decided to do a bit of a "staycation" and finally get the garage in order after having lived here for eight years!

I built a workbench (well two if I include the wee one for a drill press and vise) and dug out a bunch of tools that have been in various boxes for years. So I finally have a nice garage workspace. And we can finally walk around the garage without tripping on things or having stuff fall on us. It was nice to take a few days and actually work on tangible things!

So no trip or trip report coming, but in lieu of that a picture of the work corner of the garage!

Hope everyone is having a great spring!

Maybe some mods will get built here?
Click to expand...

#benchbros

Where did you get that stool? I'm not really digging mine, and I've always wanted a traditional one like that.

I just got these for screwdrivers, cause I fing hate the wire ones, and the vertical lift out required.

$20 MLTOOLS 8 Tool V-Slot Screwdriver Organizer |Pegboard Tool Organizer |Made in USA | VS8226 (2 Pack)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J2GBFSI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And I am considering one of these for pliers for similar reasons:

Plyworx PLR14 The Pliersrack II, Red

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSPN38...colid=NN84CB2FS2V9&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

$20 Plyworx Pliersrack PLR15 Plier Organizer - Sturdy Plastic 15 Pliers Holder For Tool Box Organization, Plier Rack Tool Organizers For Toolboxes And Storage

https://www.amazon.com/Plyworx-PLR1...rd_wg=AnURl&psc=1&refRID=A927ZNZ9S378J7R6PTEX

And I'm still searching for a viable pencil cup option.

dman100 · Apr 20, 2018

DVexile[OP] said: ↑

Click to expand...

You have a lot of clamps ... but just one hammer and one mallet. You must build more stuff than you repair. Nice calipers though ... I have some similar that must be 60-70 years old.

DVexile · Apr 22, 2018

scocar said: ↑

Where did you get that stool? I'm not really digging mine, and I've always wanted a traditional one like that.
Click to expand...

I got it from a lab that was being renovated back in like 1995. The stool was probably twenty years old then!

I just got these for screwdrivers, cause I fing hate the wire ones, and the vertical lift out required.
And I am considering one of these for pliers for similar reasons:
Click to expand...

Those are pretty slick! Not thrilled with the wire ones either, but they came more or less "for free" along with a kit of a bunch of useful hooks. Thanks for the pointer.

And I'm still searching for a viable pencil cup option.
Click to expand...

OMG, me too and why is this so hard! Seems like it should be a solved problem that doesn't require custom 3D printing...

dman100 said: ↑

You have a lot of clamps ... but just one hammer and one mallet. You must build more stuff than you repair. Nice calipers though ... I have some similar that must be 60-70 years old.
Click to expand...

I went on some sort of clamp buying spree twenty years ago when I was assembling a 4x5 field camera kit. Never did finish the camera, but I have lots of clamps left over!

dman100 · Apr 22, 2018

I have a piece of galvanized sheet metal about 12x24 on the wall, and found a magnetic cup holder at IKEA. Works well. Plus a few magnet and magnetic hooks for misc stuff, notepads, etc.

bajatacoguy · Apr 22, 2018

This guy has the best fukin build page!

DVexile · Apr 23, 2018

dman100 said: ↑

I have a piece of galvanized sheet metal about 12x24 on the wall, and found a magnetic cup holder at IKEA. Works well. Plus a few magnet and magnetic hooks for misc stuff, notepads, etc.
Click to expand...

I have three fairly huge (6 ft by 2ft) metal sheets up on the wall in our "breakfast room" or whatever you call the space right next to the kitchen. These are brushed steel things that look kind of nice. Can put up photos and the kiddo's art work. Basically a gigantic oversized refrigerator door. Using tiny little rare earth magnets I can swap out photos all the time. Put smaller sheets in my home office as well.

I hadn't thought of low cost galvanized sheet for other locations! That's a brilliant idea. Previous owners had a cheep bulletin board in the pantry for schedules/coupons and such. Fell off the wall a little while back and was thinking of putting a magnet board there but hadn't got around to it. Well - I'll be grabbing a 24x36 galvanized sheet from HD for $10 the next time I swing by. Problem solved! Thanks for the great idea!

scocar · Apr 23, 2018

Got me thinking too. A pegged magnet plus a steel can or tin cup.
These look perfect, but are oddly unavailable

https://www.homedepot.com/p/2-91-in...-Tool-Small-Parts-Organizer-MP322HD/204738837

This appears to be the same product rebranded:
https://www.amazon.com/Torin-Big-Red-Tool-Organizer/dp/B0096728O4

But I already have some of these I haven't deployed yet:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Mag-Cli...PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-203477763-_-202994012-_-N

The other option I was thinking was using an upside down pliers holding loop (I hate those too) and using epoxy to attach a Talenti gelato cup to it. Why? Their gelato is awesome, and the cup is basically clear and very sturdy, and just the right depth for markers etc. I already have one sitting on the bench.

dman100 · Apr 23, 2018

I have one of these on my peg board and it’s a good value in magnetic strength per dollar:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-17-1-4-in-Wall-Mounted-Magnetic-Tool-Bar-17962/202249708

scocar · Apr 24, 2018

DVexile[OP] said: ↑

Cab Mounted Fire Extinguisher
November 2017

I've been running "naked" as it were for awhile now. The truck really needs an extinguisher - probably two really - and a way to mount it. Waffling over what to get has delayed this way too long. So I finally got around to doing the research to figure out what made the most sense. This took more effort than it really should have so I'll share some information I've collected to help others decide.

Storage Temperature

Many people are concerned about keeping an extinguisher in a vehicle that can get quite hot in the summer when they see pretty much every fire extinguisher in existence is rated only to 120F. This rating is misunderstood - it is the temperature at which the extinguisher will still perform as an extinguisher. More accurately it is just upper limit for which UL can even test the performance of an extinguisher - it might work fine at higher temperatures. This however is different than the storage temperature of the extinguisher. All UL listed extinguishers are tested to a temperature of 175F for a period of days to ensure they will still perform after exposure to high storage temperatures. So go ahead and store an extinguisher in your vehicle.

UL Class Ratings

Most know that Class A fires are typical burning solids like paper, wood and trash. Not all extinguishers are good at extinguishing Class A fires. I certainly didn't understand just what the numerical ratings meant though. An extinguisher rated 1A must be able to extinguish an 8x8 foot wood panel (essentially a giant pallet) set ablaze with liquid fuel and sawdust and left burning for a few minutes so the fire has really taken hold. That's a huge fire! So for camp/vehicle purposes anything beyond 1A is probably overkill. For reference a 1.25 gallon water extinguisher is rated 1A and 2.5 gallons is rated 2A. Furthermore 1A is the lowest possible rating for Class A performance so to determine if an extinguisher can handle smaller Class A fires or just has no performance at all against Class A fires it is helpful to look at larger capacity extinguishers that use the same agent. If say a 10 lb extinguisher is rated 1A then you could expect 2.5 lb of the same agent to handle a modest Class A fire even though it carries no rating. If on the other hand a 30 lb extinguisher still has no Class A rating then you should expect that agent to not be effective on Class A fires.

Again we all know Class B fires are for liquid fuels. Here the number in front of the B represents how large pan of burning hexane (similar flammability to gasoline) can be extinguished. The 1B rating represents a 2.5 sq ft pan and scales linearly (so 10B is a 25 sq ft pan). For reference the footprint of a DCSB Tacoma is about 100 sq ft. These tests are "fuel in depth" meaning that there are many inches of fuel in the pan that is burning. If the entire pan is not entirely extinguished any remaining flame no matter how small will reignite the entire pan. Class B fires tend to be "all or nothing" extinguishing events. Note that the tests go by a series of round numbers - 1B, 2B, 5B, 10B, 20B, 30B, 40B, 60B... There is no 15B rating or test. So two extinguishers rated 10B could actually be quite different - one equivalent to 10B and the other equivalent to 19B. Do take a moment to watch some Class B tests online, I never appreciated just how fast the recommended "sweeping" motion is when using an extinguisher on a fuel fire.

Class C does not carry a numerical rating, rather it just means the extinguisher is safe to use on an electrical fire without harming the operator. This is a quite stringent rating involving discharging the extinguisher into an air gap between 35,000V plates/wires without arcing occurring. Obviously it would be nice to have a C rated extinguisher for your vehicle but the reality is for a 12V system this is probably not a critical rating if an extinguishing agent has some other very favorable properties.

Extinguishing Agents

ABC Dry Chemical (Monoammonium Phosphate) is the ubiquitous dry chemical extinguisher sold everywhere. It is a yellow powder. Most older dry chemicals of the past did not carry an A rating and were BC only (details below). This ABC dry chemical does have an A rating because under extreme heat it essentially melts and coats surfaces cutting off oxygen. It does not perform well on "deep seated" A fires though as it can only coat a surface and not get at deeper embers. So for example it will not extinguish a fire in a leaf pile that a little water would put out with ease. This chemical is quite acidic when exposed to water and it does a good job of acquiring water from the atmosphere. As a result it is extremely corrosive to metals - especially steel. Furthermore when used in a fire it is nearly impossible to clean because as stated it melts onto hot surfaces. A 2.5lb extinguisher carries a 1A:10B:C rating.

BC Dry Chemical (Sodium Bicarbonate) is one of the "original" dry chemicals of many years past. It is quite effective on liquid fuel fires - about equivalently so to the ABC dry chemical. It is a weak base and so is far less corrosive than the ABC dry chemical is. Also it does not melt onto surfaces and so post fire you can actually clean it up reasonably well. A 2.5lb extinguisher carries a 10B:C rating, even the largest extinguishers carry no A rating.

Purple K (Potassium Bicarbonate) is an improved BC dry chemical discovered by trial and error at the NRL many decades ago. It is considered almost twice as effective as the two previously mentioned dry chems on fuel fires but that isn't always reflected in the end ratings - things like grain size and other additives play a significant roll in the effectiveness as well. It is a weak base and also can be cleaned up after a fire. It is used extensively on flight lines to combat aviation fuel fires. A 2.5lb extinguisher carries a 10B:C rating, even the largest extinguishers carry no A rating.

Halon 1211 is only allowed for aviation use by law. It is very bad for the ozone and is tightly controlled. It leaves no residue and evaporates away on its own as clean up. Safe for aluminum aircraft components, electronics and so forth. A 2.5lb extinguisher carries a 5B:C rating - so half as effective as the dry chems for fuel fires. Large units (9 lbs) do begin to carry an A rating so it is somewhat effective against A fires.

Halotron is the replacement for Halon 1211 and is ozone friendly. You can buy it for any use. It is unfortunately only about half as effective as the old Halon. A 2.5lb extinguisher carries only a 2B:C rating - so five times less effective than a dry chem. Again at large capacities (11 lbs) it does begin to carry an A rating so it is somewhat effective against A fires.

Which agent to use?

So we can immediately see some trade-offs:

ABC Dry Chem does it all but if fired into the engine compartment or passenger cabin may result in a total write off of the vehicle due to extreme corrosion and difficult to impossible clean up. It is right on par with the other dry chems for fuel fires but getting that A rating means dealing with severe corrosion problems if used. It is banned from flight lines over concern that discharge even near an aircraft will result in totaling the air frame if the powder gets into seems in the aluminum skin.

The two BC Dry Chem options will do almost nothing on an A fire but are not the corrosion nightmare that the ABC is. They are however mildly corrosive, hardly at all to steel but to a degree to aluminum and magnesium. They can however be cleaned up with a vacuum cleaner or brush and would also respond to flushing with water.

Purple K doesn't always show the expected increase in effectiveness over its sodium cousin likely because of the round number ratings/tests. The 2.5lb extinguishers both carry a 10B rating while for the 5lb extinguisher the sodium is still only 10B while the Purple K is 30B. Looking at larger capacities it seems we should consider the 2.5lb Purple K to be about 50% more effective than the 2.5lb sodium (so consider the 2.5lb Purple K to be 15B:C).

Halotron will not harm anything when used but is vastly less effective on fuel fires than the dry chem extinguishers. A factor of 5 is a huge difference and so your corrosion free vehicle will likely burn to the ground if there is any fuel spill involved in the fire.

In the end I decided on a 2.5lb Purple K extinguisher for the cab. In the event of an accident I'm most likely to encounter a fuel fire potentially with a non-trivial area of liquid fuel on the ground. I'd like the biggest bang for the pound to be able to extract passengers. I could also use the extinguisher on the next most likely fire source in the cabin or engine compartment - an electrical short circuit or burning insulation - without writing off the whole vehicle due to corrosion from an ABC dry chem. These BC dry chem extinguishers do extinguish a flame front regardless of the source and they do have minimal smothering and heat removal properties so they can tackle a single burning wire even if inefficient at doing so.

I'm still undecided for sure on what to put in the Flip-Pac itself to deal with a fire in camp. I'm inclined to go with a 2.5lb ABC extinguisher to deal with any significant Class A fire. Water based extinguishers are impractically heavy not to mention issues with freezing.

Oh, and what of Cold Fire? Well I can't find out squat about it other than it is a "UL Approved" wetting agent. What is a wetting agent? Dish soap is a wetting agent - it reduces the surface tension of water so that it will soak into things more effectively without running off. People have put dish soap in water extinguishers for years. Cold Fire is the same concept but somehow "better". How much better? Well this seems impossible to tell because Cold Fire offers nothing other than some written claims and some videos of their extinguishers. I can't find a single Cold Fire extinguisher that actually carries a UL rating (e.g. 1A:10B). Note that water on its own carries no B rating at all (a 2.5 gallon - meaning 17 lbs! - water extinguisher carries a 2A rating with no B at all). Cold Fire claims it is effective on B fires and from some videos it probably is. But then why is no extinguisher on the market with Cold Fire in it have any rating at all??? That bugs me - so I gave Cold Fire a pass. Sounds like it could be great. Some one should UL test it...

That said Cold Fire and a few other agents are available in small aerosol like cans meant to tackle a stove top fire or trash can fire with minimal clean up hassles. Using an ABC dry chem on such a fire would be overkill and would create quite a mess. One of these "can" extinguishers does seem like a good addition to the Flip Pac or potentially to the cab to use on very small fires that might occur and are caught early but I still think I'd want a "real" ABC extinguisher in the Flip Pac for bigger problems. I'll be separately researching which "can" extinguisher to get but this appears to be a hassle since they all make claims with zero testing or ratings to back them up.

Manufacturer

Once I had selected Purple K that limited the manufacturers. In the end I chose Amerex who make some very high quality extinguishers that come with vehicle mounting brackets. You may have seen the sexy looking H3R extinguishers advertised for vehicles. They are just rebranded Amerex extinguishers. Inexplicably H3R only sells Halotron and ABC though! Strange given the conclusions above that BC or Purple K dry chem is probably what you really want around a vehicle...

Mounting

Looking around TW it seemed like a 2.5lb would fit in front of the driver seat nicely, the Amerex 2.5lb Purple K with a vehicle bracket is model B410T. I like the fact that it gives immediate access since time really is of the essence for a fuel fire. Clearly anyone that is a little bit handy and has a bit of time on their hands can fabricate a way to mount an extinguisher bracket there. In the end though I just ponied up for the "Bracketeer" which is a "universal" mount. It is quite pricey for what it is (~$60) but in my case where truck mods now cut into vacation time it worked out well since I knew it would fit and gave lots of flexibility in configuration so I could get things arranged how I wanted. It can be mounted to either the seat rails or the seat mounting bolts. In the Tacoma they recommend using the seat bolts and I can see why - it allows the seat to move further forward if you use the bolts. I was careful to check I could still remove the floor mats once mounted (I do need to take the extinguisher itself out to do this, but the bracket remains in place).

I certainly hope I never need to use thing thing! I'm pretty happy with the mounting. Usually I'm driving with the seat all the way back but being able to slide the seat forward for the occasional time my wife drives or to provide access behind the seat when packing things is really useful. I don't notice it down there when driving. I can release and remove the extinguisher while sitting. One shoe does occasionally give it a gentle whack when getting into the truck.

As you have read there are an enormous number of trade-offs involved in something as seeming simple as "put an extinguisher in the truck". By no means do I consider my solution the only "correct" one but I hope all the details will make easier for others to understand what the trade-offs actually are. I would recommend however that if you like the idea of Halotron being non-corrosive that you are aware of how dramatically less effective it is than a dry chem on a fuel fire and consider having a Purple K along as well.
Click to expand...

Hey Kaptain Purple K, do you happen to remember the seat bolt torque spec on this before I agonize through trying to locate it somewhere in the FSM? I may have an opportunity to install this when I am down at dad's for a couple days on caretaker duty starting Thursday.

GHOST SHIP said: ↑

I found blowing out the truck with compressed air tends to get a lot of small particles out of the truck successfully without too much effort. You may want to try that before resorting to cleaning with liquid cleaners. I have a high flow nozzle on my home compressor that pushes a lot of air and I'm really happy with it.

$18 Flexzilla X1 Blow Gun with Xtreme-Flo Safety Nozzle, ZillaGreen - AG1502FZ

https://www.amazon.com/Flexzilla-Bl...qid=1510424726&sr=8-5&keywords=air+blower+gun
Click to expand...

Funny, I was just looking at air guns like that one the other day. I saw the Flexilla (I have several of their hoses) but also saw Guardair guns, which seem a quality product with all sorts of options. How do you like the Flexilla product? Did you consider a Guardair?

$29 Guardair Long John 75LJ006AA Safety Air Blow Gun OSHA Compliant Alloy Nozzle with 6" Aluminum Extension,Gray

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F76NT...colid=NN84CB2FS2V9&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

GHOST SHIP · Apr 24, 2018

scocar said: ↑

Funny, I was just looking at air guns like that one the other day. I saw the Flexilla (I have several of their hoses) but also saw Guardair guns, which seem a quality product with all sorts of options. How do you like the Flexilla product? Di dyou consider a Guardair?

$29 Guardair Long John 75LJ006AA Safety Air Blow Gun OSHA Compliant Alloy Nozzle with 6" Aluminum Extension,Gray

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F76NT...colid=NN84CB2FS2V9&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Click to expand...

I got another brand (knockoff of the flexzilla) that had really good reviews on Amazon. I couldn’t find the original link when I posted that but it’s basiclaly the same thing just a dollar or two cheaper if I recall. The high flow nozzle is great for blow outs. I clean the truck and dust the shop with it. The only thing I’d take into consideration is that it will empty your compressor quickly if you have a small tank due to the high volume it’s pushing. TBH, it’s not exactly a precision instrument so you won’t find too much variation between brands of the same design. The point of failure is the construction of the trigger housing and associated o-rings. Something that’s cheaply made will have low tolerances for o-ring grooves which will result in your compressor dislodging them when closed and now you have a leaky air gun. (*cough harbor freight). When I use my HF cheapo gun, I always regulate to lower PSI at the tank for that reason.

scocar · Apr 24, 2018

GHOST SHIP said: ↑

I got another brand (knockoff of the flexzilla) that had really good reviews on Amazon. I couldn’t find the original link when I posted that but it’s basiclaly the same thing just a dollar or two cheaper if I recall. The high flow nozzle is great for blow outs. I clean the truck and dust the shop with it. The only thing I’d take into consideration is that it will empty your compressor quickly if you have a small tank due to the high volume it’s pushing. TBH, it’s not exactly a precision instrument so you won’t find too much variation between brands of the same design. The point of failure is the construction of the trigger housing and associated o-rings. Something that’s cheaply made will have low tolerances for o-ring grooves which will result in your compressor dislodging them when closed and now you have a leaky air gun. (*cough harbor freight). When I use my HF cheapo gun, I always regulate to lower PSI at the tank for that reason.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I only have a little Porter Cable pancake compressor right now, but there are times when a short blast or two are needed, or preferred, over some other laborious method or vacuuming, which may be ineffective. For example, on my old 93 22RE, the spark plug recesses would always accumulate crap. Needed to remove that before R&Ring plugs.

GHOST SHIP · Apr 24, 2018

scocar said: ↑

Yeah, I only have a little Porter Cable pancake compressor right now, but there are times when a short blast or two are needed, or preferred, over some other laborious method or vacuuming, which may be ineffective. For example, on my old 93 22RE, the spark plug recesses would always accumulate crap. Needed to remove that before R&Ring plugs.
Click to expand...

The high flow nozzle will Clean out the cab easily. It doesn’t have a concentrated stream like the pencil type air guns so for really smal areas so for something as tight as the plug recesses, you might look at something like this:
Extended Edition High Volume Powerful Industrial Air Blow Gun with 14-21 Inch Extensible Air Flow Nozzle,Pneumatic Air Compressor Accessories Tool Dust Blower Gun--26 Inch Total Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BPXKZLQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Vi43AbDFWFYYD

Not an endorsement of this exact product but that style of air gun might be better suited for the specific task.

dman100 · Apr 24, 2018

scocar said: ↑

Hey Kaptain Purple K, do you happen to remember the seat bolt torque spec on this before I agonize through trying to locate it somewhere in the FSM? I may have an opportunity to install this when I am down at dad's for a couple days on caretaker duty starting Thursday.
Click to expand...

I’ve just been looking at another thread about seat mount spacers, and someone mentioned 37 N-m which is about 27 ft-lb. Sounds right, the bolts are M8 as I recall, but this is third hand. When I installed my Purple K and bracket a few weeks ago, also inspired by @DVexile I just took a good pull on my wrench

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