Throwing P0500 code and continiously blowing IGN1 No. 2 fuse

Anyone have any more help they can provide?

Truck is still blowing the fuse, now within 20 minutes of start up without my trailer. I have replaced the blower motor and resistor and unplugged the DTRL, overhead console, amd turned off the ac button with just the blower motor running and am still blowing the fuse. At my wits end...

Would Toyota have a more advanced way of diagnosing the issue? Don't know what else to do at this point other than sell it.

 

Ever figure this out?

I have the same code, no speedo, no odo and the ABS light and parking brake light are on. And my HVAC panel is dead except for the recirc button.
And my fuse is good me not blowing, wheel sensors are fine too.

This started after I installed the 7pin towing harness that my truck didn't have from factory

 

Manual or Automatic Transmission?

P0500 Code:

Automatic Transaxle Models:
Vehicles, which are equipped with ABS (Anti-lock Brake System), detect the vehicle speed using the skid
control ECU and wheel speed sensor. The wheel speed sensor monitors the wheel rotation speed and
sends a signal to the skid control ECU. The skid control ECU converts the wheel speed signal into a 4-
pulse signal and transmits it to the ECM via the combination meter. The ECM determines the vehicle
speed based on the frequency of the pulse signal.

Wheel sensors >> Skid Control ECU >> Combination Meter >> ECU

Manual Transaxle Models:
Vehicles, which are equipped with manual transaxle, detect the vehicle speed using the No. 1 vehicle
speed sensor. The No. 1 vehicle speed sensor transmits a 4-pulse signal for every revolution of the rotor
shaft, which is rotated by the transaxle or transfer output shaft via the driven gear. The 4-pulse signal is
converted into a more precise rectangular waveform by the waveform shaping circuit inside the
combination meter. The signal is then transmitted to the ECM. The ECM determines the vehicle speed based on the frequency of the pulse signal.

#1 Speed sensor >> Combination Meter >> ECU

The # 1 Vehicle speed sensor is in the transmission.

 

You mean to tell me it's blowing a fuse that has to do with abs, and you had trailer brakes plugged in with a different plug besides the 7 way plug (????)..

2+2 is always 4.

 

Hx989 do you have a brake controller too?

 

Yes but haven't used it yet and I'm not blowing fuses

 

Auto. So if my Skid control ECU was bad I would be getting a different code?

 

No. that is not what I am saying at all.
What I was pointing out was how the speed was determined between the automatic ( using wheel sensors and the skid control ECU ) and the manual ( using a speed sensor in the transmission ).

 

If you have a brake controller installed, and you have hit your brakes. You are using the controller. Just because there is no trailer doesn't mean your not putting power to it when you decelerate and hit your brakes. It still sends power to the 7 way plug

 

It's not installed. I only install it when I wanna tow.

 

Yeah I got you it's just that I'm confused about the code. All of this happened right when I reconnected the battery after doing some electrical work (which consisted of adding all the wires, fuses and relays including the 140amp alternator fuse that come from the factory if you get the 7pin towing package which my 07 SR5 did not; and I also added the TRD inverter, bed outlet and all associated wires, relays and switches). I had already done the trans cooler, oil cooler and 130a

The code is get is also P0500 vehicle speed sensor generic.

I've had to deal with a bad ABS module before on my wife's old Jetta. Similar symptoms, ABS light on, parking brake light on, no speedo or intermittent speedo and CEL but the code was saying ABS module stopped communicating.

Now it tells me P0500 after reconnecting the battery so my hunch is a voltage spike took out the ABS module (it had 183k) which in turn tripped my CEL because of no speedo.

Or is there another CEL error code for faulty ABS?
Conventional brakes work good and truck runs strong otherwise except that the heater/fan/AC isn't working either.

 

Try not to get tunnel vision based on what you have seen on another brand automobile. That only leads to trouble.

I would use this to analyze your situation. Note: I do analysis and repairs on automated production assembly lines for a major automotive parts supplier.

It was working before you did all of the work adding the harness etc...
As soon as you finished you got the code.

Equals something is wrong with your installation and you probably have a blown fuse somewhere. I know it seems counter productive to remove everything, but sometimes it is the best course.

This is what I would do to isolate the problem.

1. Disconnect and undo All of the changes and remove all the add-ons.
2. Check each and every fuse with a DVOM ( digital volt ohm meter ) and replace any found blown. Do not rely on your vision alone.
3. Reset the code with a OBD2 Scanner or disconnect the battery for a few minutes.

See where you are at that point.

 

I had already done that and nothing. I didn't check each and every wire because that takes hours. And my electrical diagrams are incomplete because I downloaded them so I finally took it to a shop today (owner was Toyota tech before) and they just told me that the truck totally died on them due to a failing/dead fuse box #1. Wasn't sending voltage to the alternator the guys said so it didn't charge... I finished the install Friday and have since driven the truck about 50 miles over the last few days...
Now that thing failing doesn't make much sense to me and it doesn't seem related to my install, I barely unbolted it just enough to plug in the towing converter.

 

Well let us know what they find.

 

They said dealer quoted them $900 for the fuse box....Does anyone have a part number for that? 07 V6 4x4 automatic SR5 dcl cab?

 

I smell bu11sh!t. So your mechanic is telling you that it needs a new fuse box?

Somebody is full of poop. I think it is your mechanic.

I might buy that the alternator fuse is blown and needs to be replaced, but the box ... No.

 

It was fine before I installed it. Tested the fuse and I'm pretty sure your truck dies pretty much instantly when that Alternator fuse blows.
I'm going there tomorrow morning and they'll show me how they determined the fuse box is bad. Overnight they're gonna charge the battery.
How do I test the fuse box?

 

You can't really test the Fuse Box as it is just a plastic box with many individual circuits wired to the 12 VDC Source via fuses and relays. You can go through each circuit individually however.

For your mechanic to just say "you need a new fuse box" is bull crap and a cop out.

I'm really interested in hearing about how he explains it.

Please keep us up to date.

 

That's my understanding also but I thinks it's possible that something internal craps out. What I don't get is how does that relate to the alternator not charging? Then my battery light should have come on and it never did. It's belt driven so when the engine runs it charges unless A) alternator is bad or B) main fuse is blown which it isn't. You can see that real easy... So I'm confused what the heck they're talking about with alternator isn't getting voltage...
I'll have them start the truck with another battery and see what it puts out

 

True but I never screwed around with that alt to engine block ground cable