Nitori's OEM SR Foglight mod!

It's the same part number as the tacoma. I bought mine off eBay.

Made sure I got one that had fog lights and intermittent wipers. Below is a screenshot of the part number from the eBay listing


Screenshot of the item on eBay. Remember just the intermittent wiper mod is about 90 bucks for just the other side of the stalk so why not both at the same time for a tad more

 

Just started compiling my parts to install, quick question, what's the size of the steering wheel nut, I wanna grab the right tools from my job before going home and realizing I grabbed the wrong stuff. I believe I saw "30ish mm" hah anyone confirm?

 

Not that big. I think it was 19mm not really 100% but it's close of not 19mm

 

Nitori, your info on this Fog Light mod is really great, very appreciative.
I'm at the point of just wiring up the switch and was wondering if you could fill in the gaps of the pictures on the switch connectors and wires to the switch? I want to make sure I get it right, thanks.

 

Hey everybody, just wanted to bump the thread and let you know that I fixed all the pics and they are locally hosted on Tacoma World now.

Hopefully this means I won't run into a problem with them vanishing on me again!

 

Thanks so much for the updated pictures, I'm sure I can do this now. I just need to hook up the switch and my lights are on line. Thanks again!

 

So this will work on my 2017 SR 6AT 4x2, right?

 

Not sure if its posted anywhere but to remove the steering wheel from the shaft, its a 19mm or 3/4" nut. (at least it was in my SR)

 

Yes. I have the same model.
See my post #127.

Are you going with the “stalk method”, or with a push button switch (like I did).
If the latter, you have really pay attention to Nitori’s pics and instructions to get the correct wires on the proper terminals of the switch.

 

I'm wondering if the blue and white wires can be added separate from the harness and inserted into the plug where they appear at the other end. Obviously they'd need to continue into the computer but maybe that part is already there even if the the harness is missing the intermediate wires.

 

Sort of. Everything from the body lighting control ECU on out to the lights themselves is straight up plug and play. It's getting the signal to the body lighting control ECU that's where it turns into this complicated mess of prewired, not prewired, etc.

I never bothered to trace the diagrams for the white turn signal stalk wire to see where it grounds, but there's no real reason you couldn't track down two terminals of the appropriate type to insert a wire into the turn signal stalk connector and add your own white and blue wire.

It's even more legwork for a non-prewired vehicle, but it's not impossible.

 

Would you need to trace them or simply go to the ecu connector and identify them? It would take an extremely kind and generous soul to post a pic of the ecu connector where these two wires reappear but since they don't exist on mine it won't be me.

 

Hopefully this will sate your curiosity.
We already know that the blue wire goes straight to pin 26 on the body control ECU, that's how I made this whole thing work in the first place.

So that leaves the ground:


It goes to junction connector J6 which is located thusly, circled in blue:

(I hope you have freakishly long skinny arms with child hands on top because that is WAY up in there behind the dash...)

And finally J6 grounds off at ground IA:

Which is located by the driver's left foot.

Grounds can be located almost anywhere there is a nice solid connection to the body, though, so you could choose any other ground point and it would work exactly the same.

 

So really it amounts to a wire from blue to the pin 26 ecu connector and another to ground? In addition to a fog ready stalk.
:
Need stalk
+ Wires connected to said stalk in connector locations shown in op and routed to blue#26 and gnd.
Even though I'm not pre wired my cluster still illuminates the fog indicator on start up.

 

Replacing wheel on mine.
Did you run into any surprises like airbag warning light on after hooking back up or any other things to watch out for when pulling the wheel on the 3rd ? Thks.

 

Nope! Just remember to disconnect the battery and let it sit for a few minutes to be sure theres no stray voltage anywhere. Pulled the wheel, installed the switch and just made sure everything went back the way it was suppose to. I had to fiddle with the 2 screws that hold the airbag on the steering wheel just because they kinda stuck down in there mounting holes but it wasnt difficult at all.

 

So quick question about the pre wired but no wheel removal install. The blue wire in pin 26, that gets tapped but not interrupted correct? In other words, you tap, tap wire goes to switch, then to ground to complete circuit but the blue wire continues on to wherever it goes? Or are we basically adding the switch inline to the blue wire?

Thanks for taking all the time to do all this, it's a big help for those who electrical stuff is basically witchcraft lol.

 

Well installed my fogs today, thanks to this write up it went great!

Even though I was pre-wired, I went with the dash switch because it was cheaper and I like it that way better. I got air on boards new Toyota switches, and they are a damn good match to the OEM ones.

 

Hello everyone. Getting ready to install my fogs in my SR tomorrow. Was going to use @Nitori method but the fam actually was listening when I mentioned I wanted fogs lights for truck. I appreciate them for listening. They bought me this set from ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/2016-2017-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I also read @moe2o4 writeup and watched Youtube videos on installing lights ---(only found one SR fog install (linked) and the rest are light bar vids) This kit comes with the lights (H11), bezel, OEM style switch, wiring harness. The harness has an inline fuse and relay...(I assume that will handle the power to lights)?? I am pre-wired but realize that ship has sailed with this kit.

Am I correct in thinking all I need to buy is fusetap and fuse (at switch)? Do I need a 5 amp fuse? Also what fuse do you recommend I tap into from inside the truck?

Thanks for any advice you can give have...I not messed with wiring in a long time.

 

Fuse rating is based on wire gage. The relay needs less than 1A from the switch to activate and feed the much higher current drawn by the fogs. Find out what gage wire connects the switch. The american wire gage table https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm can guide you to the max cuurent allowed for a given gage and from that the fuse you should use.