The Truth About Spark Plugs....

Thanks for the reply! I cannot seem to find denso copper spark plugs anywhere.. anyone have a source?

 

Everyone says that the coppers work better. My Butt Dyno couldn't tell any difference in running Iridiums and I don't have time to change coppers every 30k.

 

https://www.sparkplugs.com/Automotive-l134.aspx

 

In going there, I found this helpful info on resistor plugs, of which the K20HR-U11 (1GRFE) is. It provides insight as to why some other plugs that fit may cause other issues. Also note that the ground electrode has a distinctive U channel. I have no idea why (but I imagine its engineers do), but this feature may also be lacking on some aftermarket Neat-O plugs.






At the moment the spark jumps the gap it causes a high frequency burst of energy, known as RFI (radio frequency interference). RFI, as its name suggests, creates static on your radio and interference with other electronic equipment, including the vehicle’s on-board electronic control units (ECUs).

Resistor plugs were developed in the 1960s to suppress some of the spark energy, thus lowering RFI to an acceptable level. Most resistor spark plugs use a monolithic resistor, generally made of graphite and
glass materials, to filter the electrical voltage as it passes through the center electrode.

Since resistor type plugs actually “resist” some of the spark energy, non-resistor type plugs actually deliver a more powerful spark. It is for this reason that most racing plugs are non-resistor types. However, in most automotive applications, a resistor plug is required for proper vehicle operation. Use of non-resistor plugs in
vehicles that call for a resistor type can result in rough idling, high-rpm misfire, and abnormal combustion.

 

I think thay are called U Groove(standard copper core plugs) my 3.4l always ran better I thought using the standard denso copper core dual electrode

 

What part number did you use if you dont mind my asking?

 

Yep, U groove:

Denso 3381 K20HR-U11 U-Groove Plug

• U-Groove Ground Electrode
• Copper Core
• Machine Rolled Threads

This is for the 1GRFE, not the 5VZFE, which is dual electrode.

 

Various spec in OP here:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-truth-about-spark-plugs.152726/#post-3059665

 

Frankly, I didn't realize (or remember) plugs were due at 30k until I checked my list the other night. I was pulling out tools and stuff last night to get ready to hit it hard and fast Saturday. I also blew by the cabin air filter at 20k, even though I had it in the garage with the intake filter, and clearly could have used a change at 20k. Lots of brain farts lately. This will be the first plug change on the 15. Fumoto will allegedly arrive Saturday via USPS, but who knows? USPS certainly won't.

 

I just bought a case (10) of D3 filters, and I still have bags full of useful crush washers from the 1st gen diffs etc. that will work on the 2015. Bought 4 gallons of Pennzoil Ultra a few months ago too. 5 quarts is such a pain. Also grabbed a bottle of Toyota ATF when I was at the dealer getting plugs. Just because.

 

Thank you! Just ordered a set of 6 and a 5/8 spark plug socket from advanced for 25 bucks! Whats the consensus on using antiseize on the new plugs, and does anyone have any tips on removing the plugs if they are stubborn?

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/spark-plug-makers-say-no-anti-seize.175558/

In that discussion, you'll find many varying opinions. It was interesting to see the manufacturers recommend against it. I use a very sparing amount of the aluminum type antisieze. Some people like to get long life plugs. I think it's a better practice to replace them routinely to reduce any chance of seizing and for the sake of reading the plugs to check the condition of each cylinder and any arising issues, moreso in higher mileage engines. It is a valuable glimpse of what's going on inside. It's also a chance for general inspection and discovery for any system sitting on the top end.

 

I put Iridiums in 50,000 miles ago. I did pull them at around 30,000 just to check them out and because I didn't have a torque wrench when I installed them. In any case, I may go back to the copper for the exact reasons you stated. Not only that, copper is the best conductor out there.

 

I am shopping here... so, what brand spark plug do you use? Assuming you are 1GR-FE engine. Thanks!

 

denso same part number as I pulled from 1/2 my motor

 

Not sure if mentioned in previous pages but it's not on the main post! What is the part numbers for the 3ed gen plugs!

 

look in the owners manual online or in your glove box

here

I'll google it for you....


 2TR-FE engine DENSO FK20HR-A8  2GR-FKS engine DENSO FK20HBR8

 

What about the NGK?

 

where in my post do I mention NGK ? I don't.

Toyota builds them with 50/50 ngk/denso but they service/replace them strictly with denso

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if you want to deviate from the owners manual and dig up the NGK part number, fine,
it's the same functionality

find a search engine in the web and look it up

 

OP post provided part numbes for denso and NGK for every engine on Gen 1 and gen 2 but not the gen 3, it will be a good idea and Resource to add.
I could go to the dealership and just pay whatever for their spark plugs but I prefer to get the exact same denso or NGK equivalent for a bit cheaper.
Sorry I didn't think owners manual will have anything but the Toyota part number MY BAD!
Not many people have changed their plugs on the 3ed gens yet and the search function brought me to this thread!
If It's too much for you to answer a question without being an ass Than you should probably just navigate away.