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Removing your headliner and insulating/sound deadening

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by GHOST SHIP, Oct 6, 2015.

  1. Oct 26, 2017 at 8:55 AM
    #241
    Bravisimo

    Bravisimo So many mods, very little money.

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    Thanks @skyking3 ! Very useful and helpful info. I plan on covering the back and maybe the sides for heat reduction. As for the windshield, I got air blue windshield tint installed at my local tint shop. I say it works with my tint. It reduces the UV rays by like 40% i think. Look into it.
     
  2. Oct 26, 2017 at 9:05 AM
    #242
    GHOST SHIP

    GHOST SHIP [OP] hates you.

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    Reflectix (linked below) is also a good radiant heat barrier. I've used it at home for a few random projects after I bought it to use in my headliner. You can double layer it, but after that, the redundancy is only wasting material.
     
    Bravisimo[QUOTED] likes this.
  3. Oct 26, 2017 at 1:21 PM
    #243
    DrFunker

    DrFunker Well-Known Member

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    Have used it in quite a few things too. Works well.
     
  4. Nov 28, 2017 at 5:30 PM
    #244
    Lord Helmet

    Lord Helmet Prepare To Attack

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  5. Mar 24, 2018 at 6:29 PM
    #245
    Bravisimo

    Bravisimo So many mods, very little money.

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    hey @GHOST SHIP (or anybody who has done this mod) Im doing the insulation this month, thanks to the cool weather. I forgot to ask, how much of the material did u end up using (in SQ FT) for the roof? I dont want to under order and come up short.

    Also, should i use the noico 80 mil as base then the CCF or vise versa? Thanks in advance!
     
    kgarrett11 likes this.
  6. Mar 24, 2018 at 7:41 PM
    #246
    mbrogz3000

    mbrogz3000 Well-Known Member

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  7. Mar 24, 2018 at 7:51 PM
    #247
    smokey_yota

    smokey_yota #FNGFTMFL

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    was anybody able to confirm the TPMS thing in the headliner? dont feel like trying to read through all the pages lol. i already have every other thread to try to catch up on haha
     
  8. Mar 24, 2018 at 10:47 PM
    #248
    GHOST SHIP

    GHOST SHIP [OP] hates you.

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    For 12-15 there are actually two TPMS modules. One in the headliner and one in the dash behind your radio/hvac controls. The short of it is that you have to unplug both to kill TPMS, but the downside is that the dash unit is connected to a bunch of other integral systems for your truck. Meaning if you unplug it, a bunch of other stuff won’t work right. So far no one has found a workaround for it that I’m aware of. For pre-facelift 2nd gens, I’m told that unplugging the headliner unit kills TPMS with no side effects. There’s a thread somewhere. I’ll link if I can find it.
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2018
    smokey_yota[QUOTED] likes this.
  9. Mar 24, 2018 at 10:50 PM
    #249
    GHOST SHIP

    GHOST SHIP [OP] hates you.

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    I purchased the kit I linked in the first post and had enough to do the entire roof, back wall and just enough left over for a door and a half. If you go with that one you should be good to go. Other manufacturers might have different “kit” sizes but I’m sure you can figure out how much you need from my estimate.
     
    Bravisimo[QUOTED] likes this.
  10. Mar 25, 2018 at 8:06 AM
    #250
    kgarrett11

    kgarrett11 Master Yoda

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    What up dude?!?! I got 2 orders of the Noico butyl and foam. One order of mlv because it was huge. My favorite mod so far. Such a huge difference
     
  11. Mar 25, 2018 at 4:06 PM
    #251
    GHOST SHIP

    GHOST SHIP [OP] hates you.

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  12. Mar 25, 2018 at 4:14 PM
    #252
    Bravisimo

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    what up bro! Yeah I ordered what @GHOST SHIP recommended. should be arriving this Tuesday. Hopefully it will be enough to do the back wall and roof. :)
     
    GHOST SHIP[OP] likes this.
  13. Mar 25, 2018 at 4:15 PM
    #253
    Bravisimo

    Bravisimo So many mods, very little money.

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    Thanks @GHOST SHIP . Ordered mine and should be in Tuesday. Cant wait to get this mod started!
     
  14. Mar 25, 2018 at 7:45 PM
    #254
    Kingaa

    Kingaa Well-Known Member

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    How does this compare to the 3rd gen noise?
     
  15. Mar 26, 2018 at 12:46 AM
    #255
    kingk0ng

    kingk0ng Well-Known Member

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    just a few things.
    subbed as well
     
  16. May 7, 2018 at 8:17 AM
    #256
    GHOST SHIP

    GHOST SHIP [OP] hates you.

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    I was recently contacted by a member about how this project helps with wind noise coming from a roof rack/lightbar setup. I thought I'd share my response here as I believe it would be helpful to add to the discussion in this thread.:

    I'm really happy with the cab roof project. My original goal was to insulate for heat, not sound, but also knew that sound deadening would be an added benefit. The Noico products I used were prefect for that- well they were actually two-fold. The sound deadening (foil backed butyl) was my base layer and provided the sound deadening. The insulation (foam) is what helps with radiant heat. I still haven't gotten around to adding another layer of insulation, but I'll probably do that sooner rather than later. Summer's already creeping in on us here and It's expected to be in the low 90s this week. I bought reflectix (looks like foil bubble wrap) for that. I've used it around the house to test it, but my only dilemma is that it will be the only thing that isn't adhesive backed so I'm debating what to use to hold it in place.

    TBH, if you're experiencing noise from your roof rack/lightbar, this project will not help very much. While there is some noise reduction because the Noico stuff dulls the sheetmetal and prevents it from resonating, the noise you're experiencing is due to wind turbulence between the rack and outer skin of the roof. There are a couple ways to minimize it- some are easier/cheaper than others, but they all deal with how the wind is passing between the two surfaces.

    The first thing I'd try is to adjust the angle of your lightbar. A small change in the angle will create or reduce wind turbulence just enough to minimize the sound. Of course there is only so much adjustment you can do until your lightbar is pointing either at your hood or at the clouds, making it useless.

    Secondly, (this tip was borrowed from the racing crowd) you can add things that will disrupt the way the wind passes through the rack and roof. They're called air vortex diffusers (thanks, google). Link:
    https://www.amazon.com/Alpha-racing...&qid=1525705493&sr=8-4&keywords=car+shark+fin
    (Not an endorsement of this actual product, just an example of what I'm talking about.) You can add a couple to the top of the windshield at the corners where the gap is largest between your rack and roof. There will be some trial and error with this as every setup is different enough where placement will vary from truck to truck. I know some people won't like the look of this option, but it would probably be the most effective.

    Lastly is to minimize the gap and increase the aerodynamics or your flying brick. One of the reasons the Prinsu rack is such a successful design is the angle of the wind fairing and how the leading edge follows the curve of the roof. The addition of the weather stripping ideally seals the gap even further.

    I don't mean to be long-winded but I'm just trying to provide as much information as I can to avoid a lot of the back and forth I see with shorter answers. Let me know if the above makes sense.

    To sum up: insulating the roof will help with wind noise, but not by much. The noise is coming from elsewhere.
     
  17. May 7, 2018 at 8:38 AM
    #257
    bagleboy

    bagleboy Well-Known Member

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    Anybody just use rubberized spray on underbody coating to deaden the panels?
     
  18. May 7, 2018 at 8:43 AM
    #258
    HCJ

    HCJ Well-Known Member

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  19. May 7, 2018 at 9:03 AM
    #259
    GHOST SHIP

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    I wouldn't recommend it. It off-gasses for a long time after application. Every time it gets hot, your car will have a chemical smell that may cause dizziness. I suppose something like Lizard Skin would work, but I have no direct experience with it.
     
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  20. May 7, 2018 at 9:52 AM
    #260
    ilubtimmyhos

    ilubtimmyhos Brewer

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