U joint question

I went with Spicer, not risking a poor fitting. Advance Auto had an online deal so i got all three for $50. Sweet.

 

How? I looked on advanced auto and could only get 20% off. Came out to over $84 for all three. I have been delaying buying them but at all three for $50 that's a great deal!

 

They were $24.99 a piece so three were 75. 20% discount brought it to $63 and i had a $10 gift card i applied.

I just found them cheaper, though. 15 bucks a piece here. You can get a better deal

https://www.drivetrainamerica.com/5-213x-dana-spicer-1330-series-u-joint-greasable/

 

You do know those are for the front shaft, don't you?

 

Ah. Didn't notice that. That's why they're cheaper. Good looking out. Advance Auto still the cheapest then

 

While you have the driveshaft out, it's not much money to replace the carrier anyway and get peace of mind. I had to do mine at 117k, and replaced with OEM Spicer parts. I just gave my local O'Reilley's the Spicer part # for the u-joints and they had them in stock. The carrier bearing I had to order from Drivetrain America.

These threads helped me a ton. This one has the list of applicable part #s:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rebuilt-driveshaft-doesnt-need-to-be.323396/

And this one, while a 1st gen thread, covers splitting the two piece driveshaft to replace the carrier bearing:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-replacing-carrier-bearing.260283/

Mine was stuck, so I had to use a torch and big hammer to split the driveshaft and install the new carrier. Good thing I did though; after it was off I realized it was failing as well.

 

What are the symptoms of it failing? Is there anyway to test it while still connected to the shaft

 

This is the correct joint, right? It says 1330 series that fits the rear driveshaft

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...t-5-213x/10854997-P?searchTerm=Spicer+u+joint

 

No. That's the front again.

$34 5-1330-1X U-Joint Kit

5-1330-1X is correct. You need 3.

 

Rear:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdh-5-1330-1x

 

Does the 1x only have a grease zerk at the end of one of the cups? I could have sworn the stock ones had the zerk on the body. No?

 

This is the 2nd post in this thread that says what rear ujoints you need.

 

Front ones on the X and rear shaft on the cup, just like the ones linked above.

 

Gotcha. Thanks. I have lyme so my brain gets jumbled a lot and i don't even realize it.

 

How the hell you get that? Ticks I guess?

 

There may be a way of testing, but I don't know it. In my case I had been driving with the failed u-joints for several thousand miles. What began as a squealing on deceleration and a slight vibration on acceleration had turned into a fairly nerve wracking vibration pretty much any time I did either.

Upon disassembly, I found that all three u-joints had fused at least some of the bearings to the spider, and one u-joint, which wouldn't accept grease, had even failed so badly as to crack the cap and lose a large chunk of it. The carrier bearing had begun cracking the rubber seal, leading me to no longer trust it and replace it as well. Whether the vibration from the failed u-joints broke the carrier bearing or the other way around, I had no idea so I just replaced it all.

 

Yah. I grew up in connecticut so they're not uncommon. It sucks, some days i get badly confused, especially with dates, times, chronology. Organizing and separating part numbers is the same thing, it's helpful to have someone call me on it because the worse i am, the less i realize I'm doing it

 

I've heard about it but we don't really have it down in Texas. We get Rocky Mounted Spotted Fever instead.

 

We have RMSF here but it's not common. Lyme can do nasty things. Over time it can mimick alzeimer's and kill you if it isn't reigned in.
I would imagine the Texas environment doesn't harbor ticks much outside of maybe Dallas/Austin area? I'v driven rt 10 and 20 and it seemed like the only areas forested are along the Colorado River

 

Seems like the smart thing to do, regardless. No sense in doing all that work and not just swap it while you're in there