2TR-FE Rebuild/Refresh

I plan on using Hastings rings, they recommend 220-280 grit so I'm going with Flex-Hone GB33424
https://www.hastingspistonrings.com/tech-tips-faqs/cylinder-bore-refinishing

 

I used the 240 grit 3.75in. I think that's the same one you listed.

 

Yep

For the guys who will find this during a search later, Flex-Hone's instruction video
http://youtu.be/jgDUzOxg2MU

 

IMO, they do look a little deep, and a little 'vertical' if that makes any sense. Maybe a little higher rpm, and a slower plunge? Maybe when you pulled the hone out, you may have pulled it up faster than you were plunging during the hone, making the last pass a little steeper

You are correct that the flash may be accentuating the scores in the bore, but its worth an inspection.

 

It was definitely the flash. We have surface finish examples at work that I used to compare to and it's about right. As for vertical, in person none look even a full 45 more like 40 ish but it should be fine as is. I could do more damage by trying to make it perfect then by leaving it.

Flash


No flash


Yesterday I got the rest of the valve cleaned and the crank and pistons in. Thanks to some help from my buddy Tyler for keeping me motivated.

I did measure the bearings to make sure the new ones are in spec as well. Used some ARP bolt lube to ensure proper torque.



For the rings, I inspected each one and used some 1200 grit sandpaper to knock off any burs or particularly sharp edges. There were very few. Then each ring was put into its cylinder and measured with feeler gauges to check end gap. All but one were in tollerance. I used the sandpaper again to take a small amount off each side to bring that one in.

After installing onto the pistons they were checked for height gap with feeler gauges, all good, then installed the pistons.



Got some more work to do this weekend but making progress!

John

 

I am starting to believe that you work at a performance shop / machine shop.

Keep the updates a coming!

 

Haha nah. I mostly make fixtures and some gauges mostly for the firearms industry.

 

it's beautiful!

What a thread!

 

DEFINITELY the flash. What a difference lol

I'm excited to see more 2TRs running

 

@05Taco4x4

Here's some valve spring info for you. I still need to measure coil bind and installed height.

Loose height avg. 48.1mm
OD avg. 24.45mm

For valve lift I set the cam in the head and measured low spot of the lobe then rotated to high spot.


That should be your lift height.
.233in or 5.92mm

 

Ok I'll get to update stuff here soon but first does anyone have a good line on new valves? Mine are pretty bad so I'm looking into cost and time options.

@05Taco4x4 you had a link to Rods how about valves?

 

Dokuro ITY-0630N Intake Valves (SUH3)
Dokuro ETY-5630N Exhaust Valves (SUH35)
Viton Valve Stem Seals VS-T5.5-E
The valve guides are same for intake and exhaust, so these will work for intake too

 

Ok so I did a thing, but first let's catch everyone up.

Memorial day weekend was mostly cleaning. Lots of simple green and scrubbing. I did all of the aluminum and the accessory mounts and idler and tensioner pulleys. Also I didn't like how much carbon was still in the exhaust ports so I busted out the die grinder and cleaned that off.

Knocked some high spots off the casting while I was in there. I dont need to port polish it but its cleaner now.





Now for the thing!

I started to lap the valves. I have done this in the past by using a drill with a piece of hose going to the valve stem and controlling pressure with my finger. Really makes the job easier.



While I was doing that I got a good look at my exhaust valves and they were very pitted. Initially I tried to just lap them and see if I could take them far enough but that was not going to happen.


There were still pits after lapping. The seats are rough too but they were cleaning up.

I looked at new valves but cost and time frustrated me. If I went that route I'd want all new ones and to get the seats ground. So I thought about it and here's what I did.

I took the exhaust valves to work and put them in a spindexer. I indicated each in, dressed a 45° (used optical comparitor yo find out angle) on the grinding wheel, and ground my valves! The most I took off was .006in. On solid lifters I could just adjust the shims but we have hydraulic lifters, so I'm banking on there's enough play for them to work.



I relapped them in and so far all good!


Lastly just painted everything.



Here's hoping all works out!
John

 

@05Taco4x4

Thanks for the valve link. I think I'll go back to my first post at the end of this and add all the links for 2tr parts I used and we discussed.

Also I thought about the valve lift some more. Because we have rockers the cam lift is not the valve lift. I'll look at the rockers more but for example, if the roller is in the middle the lift could be twice as much.

 

Impressive work. Always handy when the tools and knowledge are simultaneously at your disposal.

 

Loxsl.
--Here.
--2005 2TR FE 750k miles.
My Tacoma began burning oil at 250k miles.
--Now. 2018 2 TR FE. 30k miles. So far.
--I am trying to figure out a specific maintenance plan re motor oil viscosity/brand, oil filter, oil change interval.
--I drive mega miles and need super durability.
--The concern is passing smog checks after several hundred thousand miles, after just a few years of driving !
--Most Tacoma owners should be confident using "adequate" oil principles.
--However, I am a candidate for investing in the high end stuff.
--What you are seeing, in your tear down and rebuild, is of high interest and value.
--Thank you for sharing, with such detail and expertise.
--Any thoughts on preventative maintenance are appreciated in a big way.
--FWIW, so far, after finishing off my current stash of Pennzoil Gold 0W20, I will gravitate towards Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage 5W20 or maybe Royal Purple HPS w/Synerlec 5W20.
--It would be sweet music just to listen when you start up your truck after finishing your project, Loxsl.

 

Burning oil would have to be either rings or valve seals. My engine had 220k on it and the rings had a fair amount of blow by. The valves were heavily covered in carbon and some white crap that I'm guessing was from coolant, stop leak, an additive, or similar.

All of the oil parts look great. I'd guess rings over time. Nothing should happen in 30k. I'd take that to Toyota.

I have mobile 1 5w30 to use. I also use Castrol the gold bottle for my miata and bmw. Its actually the same as bmw official oil.

 

Thank you Sir. To clarify, there are no issues with my new 30k mi truck. It is all preventative maintenance. You've now got me thinking "thicker," and "Euro." It may take Mobil 1 0W40 or Castrol EDGE A3/B4 0W30 for my situation.

BTW how often would valve stem seals need replacing on 2TR FE ?

 

Ideally not until something else major goes. It requires pulling the head so... yeah