DIY Bolt-On Frame Plates for Sliders

Finally got them installed! Pretty stoked.

 

These are great and thanks to the guys who made this open source.

For anyone who's made a pair and bolted them on, have you tried to jack your truck up using the slider? How did it go?

 

I jack up my truck using them all the time. I have even used them with jack stands to support the truck while working on it since the frame rail curves up at the end of the plate and the slider stays flat.

To be honest it is going to come down to how well you build your slider more than the plates anyway.

 

You mean there were 3 rivets on the new frame that did not exist on the original 2006, right? I think this was a running modification in the earlier trucks and you probably got a frame that is like what a 2008 like mine got. I say this because my Mobtown sliders were designed based on a later truck (I think 2009+) and I had to drill 3 holes to clear rivets in my 9/2007 production frame that weren't there later apparently. There are actually a lot of little differences in the frames over the years, engine mount reinforcement, extra lips bent in, stuff like that.

 

Yep, so three extra rivets and from my original frame some holes weren’t there on the new frame.

 

I suspect those rivets fixed a 05-06 issue that in 2009 were additionally improved with a new lip and maybe new welds. Obviously the rivets are a band-aid to help tie the two layers together better.

 

Do you have CBI sliders or did you use these frame plates to make your own? I would think how sliders mount would make a huge difference in strength and jack capabilities.

 

I had CBI sliders before. Built my own using these mounts. These plates provide a significantly stronger mount than the version of CBI sliders that I had.

 

That's great to hear.

 

I got mine back from powdercoat.







They're a little flimsy, as the supports deflect a bit when I'm standing on them and bounce, but the frame plates are great. I also wish I made them stick out a little farther from the doors, but oh well. Hopefully they work ok.

 

looks great! any tweaks I need to make on the 3rd gen plates of they workout?

 

Thanks! I lengthened one hole to give a bit more clearance on a plastic brake line holder and had to make a slot into an L to gain access to a hole in the frame. I didn't end up using the slot I made an L because the frame hole wasn't big enough for a m12 bolt. Maybe I'll use some m10s as well. But they were great and work fine without those modifications.

 

I just spent hours reading through this whole thread, totally worth it. Big shout out to everyone that helped with the CAD, and the fellow engineers who did some problem solving on the potential shear issues!
My Tacoma came with "Predator Tube Steps", which looked cool at first but they're proving to be quite impractical so I'll likely upgrade to some sliders. When I finally get around to taking measurements I'll be sure to send them over to OP and we can get some good 3rd Gen CAD files for a DCLB!

t8fanning, how do you like that ARB with the OME's? The ARB is at the top of my mod list!

 

I like the ARB pretty well. I wish it didn't stick so far forward, and I wish it had some recovery points, but those are my only complaints really. The winch fits great and is easy to access, and the lights are pretty good as well. It gives a better approach angle than stock and plenty of tire clearance on the front side. The OME's ride better than I thought they would. I wish they gave a bit more lift though. My 33's rub on the fender liner in back a bit. All in all I'm happy with both though.

 

One of the ARB engineers told me that they don't include recovery points because the bumper is designed specifically to be mounted for compression impact, not for tension impact. HOWEVER, there is a spot for a recovery loop available underneath the bumper, and ARB has a recovery point attachment available

What did you mean by approach angle? The rake?

 

Yeah, I've heard that reasoning as well. I am glad it's designed with the airbags and Toyota's crumple zones in mind. I do have the ARB recovery point, but it sticks out, which reduces the approach angle a bit.

The approach angle is the maximum angle from horizontal of a ramp onto which a vehicle can climb without interference. Because the ARB bumper is deep, it has a worse approach angle than some other aftermarket bumpers. The front wheels of Jeeps and Humvees are very far forward, which gives them a very high approach angle and allows them to climb ledges or large rocks.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Approach_and_departure_angles

Because the recovery point sticks out past the splash plate, it reduces the approach angle. Just last weekend I was out and scraped the recovery point over a rock that I wouldn't have hit otherwise.

 

AH! I totally should have known that Thanks for the clarification, I may not get the recovery point then, I'll just use the winch for front access and recovery points on the rear bumper for rear-side access!

I mostly want the ARB bumper for it's deer-killing abilities
I hope you haven't hit any deer yet, and if so I hope the bumper did its job!
The airbag /crunch zone engineering sets it apart from all other bumpers though, so it's my top choice.

But back on topic...
Do you recommend the hard angle on the sliders? That's primarily for "sliding" off of rocks instead of getting stuck, correct?

 

If you can print up the 2nd Gen dclb and the 3rd Gen dcsb on a plotter and confirm the dclb bolts on the larger bracket line and the front bracket from the 3rd Gen fits up I should be able to make a dclb version pretty easy.

 

Alright cool! One of our neighboring engineers owns a plotter but he has a weird and inconsistent schedule. Whenever he's in I'll see about using his plotter and getting some data for ya!

 

Something like 20 degrees I think.