Loginfailed's Stolen Idea Emporium (plus BS)

Your supercharged emblem is hidden now

 

I know.

So is the backup camera. I need to make a bracket for it and extend the wires. I was thinking about putting the camera here. The distance lines won’t be right, but at least I’ll be able to see.

 

Yeah, have seen lots of guys have to relocate the camera. I think someone actually makes a relocate kit.

 

Subd. Super clean build, I dig it

 

It's too hot to ride that bike in Houston now. You're just showin' off.

 

I know it seems unlikely, but I do actually ride. Hard to take a selfie while riding the trails, but here’s a pic from a couple of weeks ago after about 12 miles of Anthills / Hershey Park.

 

I think y'all have our heatwave. Oddly this high went east to west. I know my dad in socal said its supposed to be 109 there today. Its 79 and low humidity here today. Went out and hit some golf balls at the driving range. First time in 3 months. I was rusty.

 

What type of emblem do you have? Is it the OEM Toyota one?

 

It’s a GM emblem from a Chevy Cobalt.

Part # 22729684

 

Nice, i think ive seen this one on xru on a blue truck.. i like this way more than the oem emblem

I think the gentlemen on xru had his color matched to the truck on the lettering

Thanks for the info!

 

Did a couple mods this weekend.

For some reason the SOS off-road rear bumper swingout tire carrier comes equipped with the wrong wheel studs that don’t match the truck. The diameter is ok, but the thread pitch is not right. Maybe they’re for a Jeep or something (not sure).

I didn’t take any pics of the process, but I ground off the welds and replaced the wheel studs with the correct ones that match the truck.

So now if I get a flat, I can put my stock wheel and stock lug nut to hold it on there.

The other thing I did gave me a chance to practice with my TIG. I used some flat bar and made a little bracket to hold my fire extinguisher to the bed rail.

 

Also I removed the second

$124 Vibrant 1142 3" Ultra Quiet Resonator

Vibrant 1142 resonator that I had after the muffler. I also deleted the tail pipe section that pokes out behind the rear tire and just made it a turn down.

The exhaust is actually QUIETER without the second resonator on there, which was actually the goal of the experiment. I love it when a plan comes together.



The rear end looks a lot cleaner without that big ass URD exhaust tip sticking out. Tons more clearance for the mall speed bumps as well!

 

So you’re running (1) vibrant and (1) high flow cat ?

LT headers - equal length y - high flow cat - vibrant res - muffler ?

 

Exactly. I still think it needs a little attenuation. Planning to do a Helmholtz resonator later on. But for now it’s much easier to live with.

The biggest difference in making this thing quieter was @Roostfactor making my URD y-pipe equal length.

 

Practicing with the new TIG. Prepping for another project down the road. My welding skill is quite noobish, but I’m gettin’ it done!

 

TIG demands clean material.

 

I noticed!

 

I finished welding up the Total Chaos alignment tabs. Now I just need to make time to put them on. Not the prettiest welds but they’re stuck together good.



Also, I think I’ve finally got the rear tire swingout rattle and wobble fixed. I made a bracket that mounts to the tailgate using the driver side tailgate latch bolts. It has a plate that pokes out between the tail light and the tailgate. Again, not the prettiest welds but it seems solid. This adds a little support to the top of the swingout so the pivot and the lower latch aren’t having to fight the flex when the tire and my mountain bike are hanging off of it. Hopefully the tailgate latch holds up to the extra stress.



It’s basically a motorcycle strap running through the hole and wrapped around the swingout. It’s pretty amazing how much this little strap firms things up.



I also wrapped the lower latch contact point with some 1/8” thick rubber I found at the hardware store. Cut it to size and attached it with two zip ties. No more rattling and wobbling.

 

Snagged a 4pc set of Delco Remy horns from eBay. Working on a good place to mount them. Looks like there going to end up in a cluster below the passenger headlight.







I was getting ready to make an additional brace to make it a more solid mount. But it’s started to rain. So now I play musical cars so I can move the party into the garage.

 

I picked up a little Jetta from work, so now I have an extra vehicle in case any mods go south. With that said, this weekend I'm going to attempt an electric fan conversion. Going to try making a basic aluminum shroud to fit up the the CSF T4R/4Runner radiator and then mount a Volvo radiator to it.

This is a Dorman 621-200 radiator fan assembly. This fan assembly is used on a bunch of different 90's Volvo vehicles.



The neat thing that you'll notice in the pic above is that the fan is completely removable from the shroud. When you remove the fan, you end up with a nice flange with several mounting holes, which is perfect for what I'm try to do on the Tacoma.



I'm not taking credit for finding this fan on my own, here is where I originally became aware of it: https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gen...-fan-better-application.html#/topics/1034031?

This fan is about 2" thick.



It is about 17" wide including the flange. The blade itself around 15" in diameter.



To control the fan I will be using:

• $10 Dewhel Aluminum Black Water Temp Meter Temperature Gauge Joint Pipe Radiator Sensor Adaptor Clamps 36mm
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018FY10PQ/ (inline hose adapter, 38mm model)
• $211 Flex-a-lite 33054 Variable Speed Control Replacement Kit
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000A8N3ME/ (fan controller)
  
• $35 Dakota Digital 1/8" NPT Universal Water Temperature Sensor 0-300F SEN-04-5
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYD0J0J/ (temp sensor)

The 33054 is the replacement unit. Normally you'd buy the whole kit (31163), which comes with a bunch of wires and other stuff for $155. But I didn't like the sensor they include and the wiring and fuse holder they show looks kind of cheesy. I found the module alone as an Amazon warehouse deal for $70 vs $105. Id rather make my own harnesses anyway so this worked out better for me.

Since I will be removing the stock shroud, the coolant reservoir will have to go too, since the reservoir's shape and mounting holes are for the stock shroud. I went with a basic reservoir I found on Amazon. Hopefully it will do the trick.

• Hotrod99 Universal 3'' X 10'' Aluminum Radiator Coolant Overflow Tank Powder Coated Black
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EC4GBRU/

The main thing I'm not sure of yet is how much current the Volvo fan draws. The Flexalite 33054 is supposed to be rated at 45 amps. If the fan draws more than that, I'll be looking at other options for fan control.