Towing 4 down with AT

Thanks for coming back!!! I have zero concern with the disconnect but I really do not want to mechanically disable the steering wheel lock. I spoke with one Remco installer in Texas and he has installed lots of DS disconnects on late model Tacomas but none had the push button start. What operates the pin for the steering wheel lock. Is it electric or mechanical?

Thanks

 

Got mine set up. Did the drive shaft disconnect from SW Driveline. Also did a diode tail light wiring kit. Blue Ox base plate to match the BO tow bar I already had. I contacted 999crazy and he put me in touch with the mechanic he had disable his steering wheel lock. After consultation I tried to do the same on mine, but I could not get the anti tamper bolt out, so decided to go a different direction to unlock the steering wheel. I added a battery disconnect switch, so after pushing the starter button once to put the truck in accessory (unlocking the steering wheel) I just pop the hood and throw my battery disconnect switch. Steering stays unlocked until battery power is restored. A setting saver maintains most of my settings while the battery is disconnected, and a 12V direct plug powers my RVI Brake2 supplemental braking unit. My Protect-A-Tow still fits, so all is good to go. My Taco is now a toad.

 

Moonshine: Great post. The shop foreman at the local Toyota shop was going to try the disconnect on a stock truck to see that works, In another forum a Toyota owner ( not a Taco) says he rolls down the window, hits the start button to pot it in accessory. Takes the key fob and exits the vehicle. Closes the door and reaches in to put the window up ( express). He claims it does not lock the steering wheel. I like your idea. SW driveline told me they have installed DS disconnects in a number of Tacos and that they know how to keep the wheel unlocked. What is a settings saver? Is it a 9 volt battery setup that plugs into the cigarette lighter. Wouldn't the memory saver try to engage the lock? If you are using the 9 volt system will the battery last all day? Thanks again for your post.

 

Correct on the setting saver. This is the one I got -

$15 Powerbuilt 648539 Computer Memory Keeper, Red

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BW9J1Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . I still lose both trip meters and my clock, but it keeps all the stereo and phone settings. It does not try to re-engage the steering lock. I haven't tested to see if it'll last all day yet, but it shouldn't be placing much of a drain on the 9V battery.

When I was trying to figure out how to overcome the steering lock I did some experimenting, and I think this is what you were reading about on the other forum. I found that I could push the starter button once to place the truck in Accessory mode and unlock the steering. I could then turn off the stereo and the touch screen display. The DIC still showed Acc mode. I could then exit the truck (either leaving fob inside or taking it with me). I needed to leave doors unlocked. After about 5 minutes the DIC display would go dark and the steering would remain unlocked indefinitely, as long as I didn't open the drivers' door. I tested this by jacking up the truck until the front wheels were off the ground and by moving the wheels by hand. As soon as I open the driver's door the steering lock would engage. After trying this procedure a few times I decided I wasn't comfortable using it for several reasons; 1. Not wanting to leave doors unlocked. 2. Not wanting to leave truck in Acc position for hours at a time, even with stereo and touch screen off, and 3. Not wanting to have a door get inadvertently opened and re-engage steering lock. For all those reasons I decided to go the Acc/battery disconnect route. I used this battery disconnect -

$27 WirthCo Battery Doctor 20108 Battery Disconnect Knife Switch for Top Post Terminal – 12v Battery Kill Switch for Negative Post – Perfect for Saving Car Battery - Made In USA

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OWFLC4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . I've tested my setup locally and all is working well, but our first significant trip is upcoming so I'll be able to do a more thorough test soon.

 

Thanks for all that info. You are a trailblazer!!! I was wondering if one could put switch inline with the solenoid that applies the lock. I had asked the shop foreman abut this and he said I might get a check engine light and lots of problems. Much of the electronics is interconnected.

 

Just got back from our first real trip towing the Taco. Total of 350 miles over the weekend. All worked well, no issues. I will say that the battery disconnect I chose feels a bit flimsy in actual use. I may look for something better made, as this one just doesn't inspire confidence that it will hold up long term. On a side note, the DS disconnect itself is incredibly simple. It's a slip ring that engages a geared collar on the DS. Simply slide it forward about 3/4" and it disconnects. Slide backwards and the DS is re-connected. A couple of paint marks on both makes it a snap to visually line them up. However, the whole shebang is activated by a forked collar that mounts below and ahead of the differential, where it would by subject to impacts when off roading. The forked collar is actuated by a PTO cable (think oversized lawn mower throttle cable) that's routed inside the passenger compartment, ending up on the left side of the transmission tunnel. I quickly discovered that the PTO cable rattles inside it's sheath and that sound comes right up through the trans tunnel and it is quite noticeable if you're on a rough road or gravel road. I HATE rattles, so I tried securing the PTO cable in several different ways, I tried putting lube inside the sheath the dampen the rattle, etc., all to no avail. So, I took the PTO cable off along with the whole forked collar gizmo. I have a ground pad that I keep in the bed of the truck anyway, so although I do have to get under the truck to disconnect or re-connect the DS, I don't get dirty and it's literally a 10 second job. Others might not like this approach, but it works for me.

 

I had the DS on our 05 Taco. Worked great. But I replaced that flimsy cable with a PTO cable from a farm supply store. Much sturdier and a large knob. Never had to crawl under. BUT I kept the mechanism clean. I power washed it once in awhile and applied silicon spray. I too started looking for a good disconnect. You can get some that are remote operated but that is just something else to go wrong. You could use a battery disconnect switch like on an RV or Marine application. They can handle the amps and work great.

 

I want to argue about this statement, but I'm having a difficult time.....

 

I appreciate all these posts, this is exactly what I have been trying to find out. Now it is perfectly clear, I can tow my 2017. DS disconnect: good; Battery disconnect: good; Blue Ox Baseplate: good; Diode Tail Light Wiring Kit, does this directly connect into the taillight assy? so you don't have to drill an extra hole and add another light bulb? And lastly, do you have to install an auxiliary oil lube pump? TIA

 

A diode tail light kit connects to the wiring for your existing tail/brake lights, so you do not have to drill any holes in your tail light housings or add additional bulbs. No lube pump is needed since the transmission is in Park when towing. The only other thing you may need is a 12V direct plug (wired directly to battery, powered even with battery disconnect thrown) to power your auxiliary brake unit, depending on the type of aux brake system you use. Holler if you need any clarification. I've muddled through this enough that I think I've finally got the hang of it.

 

Thanks MS. I think that diode kit is something like what I got hooked up on my CR-V, it came from BO. I'll probably use the same brake system as well. It is a BO single cyl air operated from the mh.

 

Another thought just occur, what about the 4wd or is that not even in the equation for towing?

 

Leave the transfer case in 2WD when towing. If you had it in 4WD the front wheels would turn the front drive shaft and you'd need another DS disconnect.

 

I know this is an old thread, but I want to thank everyone that contributed to it. With this help, I was able to get my 3rd gen with the push button start set up as my towed. I went with the battery disconnect and didn't even attempt the column disassembly method. Thanks!

 

Thank you for this thread
I currently have a f350 srw and 5th wheel toy hauler
I want to get into light crawling and also have a daily driver that can do mountain bike shuttling without a rack and sometime throw motos in the back (excludes jeep, except gladiator)
Thinking 30ft or less super c rv + tacoma with the largest quad cab avail
Eventually would like to take all the toys on big trips meaning rv + 2 dual sports + bicycles (motos in the bed of taco)
I don't want to have or store a trailer at home or while traveling and want to disconnect and go frequently w DD
It seems this is sorta possible
This is my setup from last summer, but it's going to change
I haven't gotten the super c or tacoma yet

 

Lol! So true.

 

Thanks for all of the very useful info. I recently purchased a 2016 Tacoma TRD Sport with automatic trans and push button start. I purchased everything suggested here with the exception of the DS disconnect. I’ll get that as soon as I get the BI baseplate, wiring kit and Invisibrake installed. Today I added the screw type battery disconnect and inserted a cable into the OBD II connection to test. I added the battery disconnect to the negative side of the battery and noticed that I still had 12 volt power inside the vehicle. I then noticed that there is a connection pigtailed from the nagative battery cable to a grounded location next to the battery. This is apparently replacing the ground to the battery. I’m thinking that I will either need to add another battery disconnect to the grounded wire to the frame or move the battery disconnect to the positive battery stud. Let me know what others have done. Thanks, Bob

 

Have you successfully towed four down? we are going fulltime soon and gathering as much info on this subject as possible

 

I have a 2017 Limited That I have successfully set up to tow behind a RV.
1st Issue: Will the transfer case support 4 down? My transfer case has a 2wd and a 4wd mode. In 2wd the front drive shaft free wheels. The only problem then is the rear wheel. I installed a Drive shaft disconnect from Superior Driveline.

2nd Issue: How to unlock the steering wheel. In accessory mode the Steering wheel is unlocked, but it does not stay unlocked. It auto locks at some point. Solution: I installed a switch in-line with the Steering wheel lock fuse (STRG Lock 20A). Procedure: Put in Accessory Mode, Turn fuse switch to off. At this point you can turn off the ignition. Steering wheel will not lock until the switch is turned on. It will also not Start until it is turned back on.

I have been towing a Tacoma for 15 Years so I had to figure this one out

 

Pics, please, of lock disconnect process and location!!!